Wargaming Tradecraft: 2015


Day-Glo Pigments

I've discussed using pigments before and since then have used them quite a bit. Here's another type of pigment - Day-Glow. (Or Day-Glo.) The reason I prefer to use the term "Pigment" and not "Weathering Powder" is because these have more uses besides weathering.

In this article I'm going to compare using day-glo pigments to paint and briefly touch on why you can't replicate this look with normal paint.

I bought these ones from Forged Monkey (Massive Voodoo) but they seem to have changed around their store since then and don't appear to be selling it anymore.

Finally, we'll look at how these react under UV / Black Lights

Metallics: Painting NMM as TMM

Today we're tossing preconceptions out the window. While writing about Colour Theory and Metallics, I've been looking outside the box a lot more. I've always liked Eldar for how much more alien they look in the Warhammer sci-fi universe. But how can I take that to another level?

So I got thinking... what if Eldar, in their alien nature, are meant to be True-Metallic Metal but are just always depicted as Non-Metallic Metal? Right?

The idea is that while so many of us clamour to flip things upside down to depict metallic effects using regular paints, what if artists have already been doing the same thing? Making that assumption, Eldar are supposed to be painted TMM. So that's what I'm going to do today.

I've even included my paint journal page at the end.

Painting Metal Realistically

In this tutorial, I'll look at ways to make your metal objects look more like they should, instead of generically slapping your metallics on blades and armour. Light sources and shadows play a factor in how best to portray the fact that your miniatures are actually in their own environment.

Like while Painting Chrome, this was another attempt that showed me I tend to "paint from the hip" so to speak. My untrained eyes do the best I can, but I prefer to paint what I see, not necessarily what there is to be seen... if that makes sense. So I'll offer some tips to give you the general idea.

Felcaller Shaman, Painting Skin and Fur

I recently finished the Hordeblood Felcaller inspired by the troll shaman from the original Warcraft 3. There were a few fun things that I wanted to try out while painting him. The first was multi-tone skin and next was demonstrating painting fur.

This mini was also a lesson in recognizing your mistakes and going back to repair them. It's also important to realize that gimmicky techniques aren't always the best route to take.

Confused? Click on through to see what I'm talking about.

Painting Chrome Metallics

Chrome can be painted a couple ways - the first is to use actual chrome spray paint or silver as a base, then add your own touches to make it work on a miniature scale. The second is to simulate it by paying attention to the shape of what you're painting and simulating horizon, sky and ground.

I'm going to come out and say it: I'm not supper happy with the final look of some of these chrome effects. It's the first time I've tried simulating chrome but maybe it can offer some ideas for anyone trying these effects themselves.

Happy Seppuku Terrain Stamps Kickstarter 2

Terrain stamps allow you to create detailed bases and scenery at a fraction of the cost of buying resin bases.

I interviewed Stephen from Happy Seppuku Model Works a few days ago as a precursor to reviewing their newest Kickstarter - The Stampede! I reviewed their first Kickstarter a few years back while also looking at the uses of terrain stamps and was glad to have the opportunity to take a look at their newest offerings.

You can see a couple examples below. The base on the right was painted by a friend of mine while painting his first miniature. Ever. It demonstrates how you can sculpt additional details into stamped stuff and how easy stamping is as this was the first time he's done any work with putty.

It's that easy.

Apologies for this being last minute. Happy Seppuku sent me a sampling of some of their stamps to review, but customs decided to sit on it for a little while. I've stayed up late to write this for you because this is the last day for the Kickstarter. It ends Tomorrow at 3am EST / Tonight at midnight PST. If you do happen to miss it, their store will likely see the newer stamps added in the near future.

Just click on through to read a review of their newest stamps, including a comparison to what they created previously.

Painting Metals - Parkerizing / Phosphating and Heat Treating

When metal heats up and wears over time, it discolours with hints of blue and purple, maybe a little brown. Sometimes metals will be intentionally heat treated to add a nice rainbow effect to them.

There are methods used to protect metals which also reduce their reflectiveness. Usually with either a matte grey or black. In a painting sense, you use Non-Metallic Metal first, then True-Metallic Metal blade edges and scratches.

Happy Seppuku Terrain Stamps Kickstarter - Again!

I wrote about Happy Seppuku Model Works' terrain stamps a few years ago and while there were some bubbles in the molds, they were an excellent way to create detailed bases without requiring any kind of sculpting skill.
This lets you get away from standard boring round bases at nowhere near what it would cost to buy custom sculpted resin ones. I've since had the opportunity to let some friends try these out, who've managed to create some cool things without any prior experience with miniatures.

They're at it again with the 2015 Stampede! (Ends Friday, though, so act fast!) This time they've got a lot more stamps and a number of improvements to their process. Their new stamps are smaller, letting you save space when storing them and are flexible enough to use on 3D terrain features. There's also a wider range of styles now, from jungles to alien hives and wall or roof options.

Happy Seppuku has sent me more stamps to review, which I'll talk about later this week. For now, Stephen took time to answer some questions about his experience with tabletop gaming and the work that goes into his business:

Painting Mixed-Metallic Composition (MMC)

I say "Composition" because I'm not talking about how to paint metal so much as how to create contrast by balancing painting techniques across a miniature.

See, when I began painting Non-Metallic Metals, I found that despite its pleasing tones, metal can end up looking flat and dull. You're painting with the same colours used on the rest of your model so everything blends together. Since I'm a big fan of using contrast to make a model visually "pop", when I'm painting with NMM, I'll usually throw splashes of True-Metallic Metal on smaller details like bolts, rivets, buckles, etc.

As an example, take a look at the orange terminator here. Since everything is painted with regular paint, it all has a similar appearance. But, I used some colour variation - the orange is very strong and stands out boldly while the lighter colours like the cloth and golds are softer instead. The black metal parts are bold and strong too, but your eyes are probably treating them similarly to how they look at the orange.

I'm going to preface this by reminding people that I'm self-taught when it comes to art. This article is mostly theory and I'm talking about how things appear to me.

Painting Mixed-Metallic Metals (MMM)

Sometimes, a single style doesn't create the best looking effect. If you combine a few of the other Metallic methods to paint Mixed-Metallic Metals, it can make some nice aesthetic creations.

For example, on my Elemental King I painted his collar and metal plates a cool blue-grey NMM steel but then used iron RMM to create layers and sheets of rust. On my Harlequin Wraithlord, I used a little bit of NMM to highlight some of the TMM gold in order to force a visible highlight not dependent on the strength or angle of actual light reflecting off the paint.

I'll show you some examples and offer some tips on ways you could use this.

Recently, on the mounted leader from Age of Sigmar, I used metallics to create a shiny undertone that blended into natural set highlights. This was actually done in only 4 steps - Metallic gold primer, a thick brown wash, then an off-white highlight followed by quick white highlight of tips and corners.

Painting Real-Metallic Metals (RMM)

"Real" is a term I've dubbed in regards to painting Metallic Metals using paint that actually contains metal.

This means you can paint something with iron and have it rust or use copper that patinas green. Even if you don't want to age it, there's value in having a finish that actually looks like Pewter, Brass or Gold.

Want to see how this crazy stuff works? Click on through.

Painting Non-Metallic Metals (NMM)

This is a simulated look using colour to fake a metal appearance. As an example, using greys for silver, blues for steel and yellows for gold. You might also hear it referred to as a "European" method of painting due to its wider contrast and softer blending.

Honestly, NMM isn't much more difficult than painting any other part of your model - Shade, highlight.. you're already familiar with it. But is IS harder and does require more patience with a little more skill. The difference is to make it look good, you need to use more shades of colours to blend from dark to light and choose where you want the reflection coming from. For now, we'll focus on an NMM overview and look at simulating real reflections later.

Really well done NMM stands out and Internet likes to place people who can create the effect with a solid technique on a pedestal. With all things Internet though, don't look at it as a necessity, just a neat skill to pick up at sometime.

The problem with NMM is that you're using the same paints to simulate metal as you're using to paint the rest of your model. This means that without strong control of your colours and contrasts, metals can disappear. Instead of standing out, they'll blend in with cloth and skin.

Painting True-Metallic Metals (TMM)

Over the next while, I'm going to look at different ways to paint metallics. Most people are familiar with "True" and "Non" Metallic Metals, but I use more methods than these two and you're going to get to read about them all! Sound good?

"True" is the term given to using shiny metallic paints that actually shimmer like metal does. It also means that as you move the model around or look at it from different angles, the highlights change. This is by far the easiest way to paint metal and is the most "realistic" way to paint shiny metal. (I say "shiny" because some metal is naturally dull and you're better off using Non-Metallic Metals.) It has both colour and reflection.

Creating the Mountain King's River

In the last post on my Elemental King, I discussed building the Mountain King's base. Today, you can read a comprehensive tutorial on how I created the water on his base. I'll admit: I'm pretty proud of this one. It turned out beautifully and the ripples I made in the water seem spot on.

Included are some money saving tips and details on a slight hiccup, which you'll have to read the post to find out about.

Join the Disqussion

Just a quick note that I've installed Disqus' comment system on Wargaming Tradecraft. Been using it more over at the HoP and liking it. You can still comment using your Blogger (Google) account, but other options include one-click login through Twitter, Facebook and actual Disqus account. I've also left anonymous commenting enabled.

Some features now include the ability to see what sites you've been commenting at in one place, a profile feature to automatically email you on any replies, upvoting, better reply chains and language filtering since I try to keep this site appropriate for all ages.

Hey, who knows, maybe this will promote more commenting.

Maker Expo: Retrospective

What a day.

I'd certainly say that the first public event I've presented at was a rousing success and all full of positive energy! To recap, Maker Expo was an event full of inventors and artists showcasing their hobbies and businesses to reach out to the community and expose the public to all sorts of new and wonderful things. The event had roughly 7500 visitors, 100 volunteers and 100 exhibitors in an 8 hour span. (OK, so it was a lot longer of a day for the exhibitors, especially if you're fighting mono and a cold like I am. Think I survived on adrenaline alone.)
[See a clip from CTV News.]

TheWife starts things off before her volunteer shift. A retweet by the Mayor to begin? Well thanks!

Wargaming Tradecraft presents: Work in Progress

I'm proud to announce that this Saturday, September 19th, Wargaming Tradecraft will be representing the miniature community at this year's Maker Expo located at the City Hall in Kitchener, Ontario.

"Work in Progress" is an art exhibit demonstrating the process taken to complete miniatures, terrain and special effects. I'll also be involving visitors of the event by inviting them to participate in ongoing group paints throughout the day.

What is Maker Expo?

From their website: "Maker Expo is a diverse, family-friendly showcase of makers, artists and organizations who create amazing things in celebration of the do-it-yourself spirit."

(and it's free!)

There will be all sorts of cool exhibitors showing off items of technological and artistic innovation.

Interested in Attending?

As mentioned, it's going to be held at City Hall in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada.

Join the Facebook Event.

Check out the full details here.


Basing the Mountain King

Often overlooked is the importance of the base for your model. It's not the focus, but it should accent what you've created and cheaping out will detract. I'm also a firm believer in using as many natural items to base with as you can to place your miniature in a believable context.

This becomes extra important on a project the scale of the Elemental King. Last week I looked at applying terrain on the Mountain King's body and today we'll apply it to the base.

The Plan

The whole time I'd intended to have him striding through a river that came up to roughly his ankles. So the base needs to be a rocky/sandy bed that ended at a shoreline. The wood was planned the whole time, but here I have to blend the land and water together.

Basing the Mountain King's Body

One of the parts of the Elemental King Project was that he's supposed to be covered in moss / grass. Originally, I was going to go overboard - if it was skin, it was going to be covered in moss. As he came together, my vision changed. I really liked how his skin turned out and didn't want to hide that. Instead, I decided to have the moss growing from the stone outcroppings, thicker where it met the skin.

The neat thing about an elemental, is I'm mixing my basing techniques with the actual body of a miniature. This creates a unique dynamic not often seen in miniatures.

Object Source Lighting on the Elemental King

Last week I covered how I painted and gel'd the special effects for the whelps on my Elemental King project. The thing about some special effects, like fire, is that they can cast light which has to be taken in to consideration. Today I'll demonstrate how I achieved that on the Mountain King. I've also covered Object Source Lighting previously.

The tricky thing about OSL is always that there's no going back. Here you have a nicely painted object and then suddenly it's time to paint over it all and dramatically change how it looks. It's intimidating. But also rewarding.

So, read on to learn how I use just a few paints to turn the fire elemental whelp on a chain into a sort of lantern for the King.

Painting and Gelling Elemental Whelps

The Elemental King project involves covering him in a bunch of whelps. Some are perched on him, others are bursting forth from his body! Lets look at how I've painted them and added some extra flair too.

When working on this scale and around a larger project, sometimes it's easier to paint these smaller details separate. Pictured here, you can see that I've got this whelp glued to a toothpick. This lets me paint him away from the King while getting under and around into the hard to reach places and still hold him in place to see how it looks.

Because of the elemental theme, I'll be displaying how I've painted the Whelps in styles of Fire, Earth, Water and Wind as well as creating special effects to go along with these themes.

Painting Symbols and Mountain King WIP

Hanging from the Elemental King's loin cloth, is a stone tablet, which I wanted to paint the Horde symbol on. It doesn't matter what icons you're trying to paint, this article will give you tips on how to paint symbols on any surface; for example, Space Marine chapter logos and company numbers on curved shoulder pads or banners.

Notice for European Readers

Just a quick note for anyone reading from the European Union.

I got a notice from Google today that you'll now get a notification regarding cookies when visiting Blogger sites from now on. Apparently the EU requires sites to make readers aware of the use of cookies.

Google has a little more information here.

I don't know exactly what cookie information Google uses, but I do use Google Analytics and Ads on Wargaming Tradecraft, so there may be some data saved from these.

I also can't see what the notice looks like since I use a custom domain, so my apologies if it's annoying.

Painting the Mountain King's Loin Cloth

Next up in the saga of the Elemental King, I've got a brief article on his loin cloth. (haha) Not really anything fancy going on here, but I'll cover it nonetheless.

Base Coat

As I've demonstrated before, stippling / sponging is a great way to paint leather because of the texture it adds. So as an undercoat, I've painted some layers of mixed size dots by changing up how firm I'm pressing the sponge onto the surface. I want the cloth to be red when I'm done, so I use a number of red and browns of different brightnesses. Because of the nature of leather, don't even wait for paint to dry - let it mix.

At this stage, don't worry about the details of stitching that hold the sections together. That'll get painted later.

Painting the Mountain King's Stones

After painting the Mountain King's skin, his stones were the other large task I was faced with. It meant a lot of airbrushing, time consuming edge highlighting and possibly the most tedious task I have ever done in my time painting.

All well worth it and along the way his "stones" became more "crystal." The artistic process is a fluid one. Allow your vision to shift if things start veering away from your original destination as long as you're pleased with how it's coming together.

Take a look at the Elemental King's completed photos and an outline.

Painting the Mountain King's Skin

Today I'm going to demonstrate the number 1 question I received during the Mountain King project - How I painted his skin.

There were a lot of steps to it, but I'll show the ones that stand out. Most of the photos are hi-res so you can click them to get a more detailed view.

Overall, it basically came down to:

- Stippling with a sponge.
- Airbrushing.
- Painting deep shadows.
- Highlighting with weathering powders.
- Shading subtle shadows.
- Varnish.

Mountain King's Chipped Pearl Mani-Pedi

Another change I decided to make to the Mountain King was to replace all his finger and toe nails with real chipped pearl.

The other thing I'll show off here is using a Dremel to make the process easier.

You can see an example here of how it looks when I finished.

I had considered replacing his teeth with stones, but that was looking a little logistically crazy and to be honest, I liked how his teeth looked. While rooting through my terrain bits I came across the pearl chips and it all came together.

You can also carve the nails out with a knife, but a rotary tool is just tons easier and faster.

Sculpting the Mountain King

When I decided to prop the Mountain King's hand up on a log, the last thing I was expecting was it to turn into the mass amount of resculpting this project required. The model was designed to go together in a specific way, with no allowance for repositioning.

It was a blast to do all the work though. I learned more about sculpting with green stuff on a larger scale as well as how to blend it seamlessly into the actual model.

Without further ado, lets look at what was involved...

Pinning Heavy / Large Models to Bases (and Mountain King WIP)

"Overkill is my style...
and I think big." *
Today I'm going to look at a couple ways to attach models to their bases that'll be more secure than just gluing them down. On larger scale models or those that are heavy, you really want to make sure they're firmly attached to their base, won't rock around, snap if they're jostled or apply too much pressure to the terrain around their feet. You'll also get to see more photos of how the Mountain King project came together.

I've discussed simple and advanced pinning before, which is the act of drilling holes in the joints of larger models so that when you glue it together, you can stick metal rods in and strengthen the connection.

Don't feel bad if you don't get this sci-fi reference. It's super obscure and Canadian. Although, yes, that's the Human Centipede guy.

Helping Cheaters be Better Players

Anyone who's been reading my works for a while knows I'm generally a positive and helpful guy. Sometimes, I feel the need to discuss a topic out of character for myself. I wrote this over a year ago, got some feedback from community members like Stelek, SinSynn, TastyTaste, Thor, Lauby and Loq and rewrote it, but never posted it. Recently, I decided that writing at the HoP provided a readership who might appreciate this article more than my usual and rewrote it again.

At some point, we've all probably played someone that we might be quick to label "CHEATER!!!1111~" I've written this article to address some of the issues that arise and offer advice on how to handle them.

We gamers traditionally come from a passive stock, which makes handling these kinds of problems really awkward. Often times we either just let it happen or overreact beyond what's reasonable. Keep in mind, the people we're playing with most of the time aren't just strangers at a gaming club - they become our friends and acquaintances, which makes an afternoon of gaming a whole lot more fun. We don't want to leave a gaming session fuming at people who in any other social gathering are a great time to be around.

So, in the interest of having more fun at your FLGS and saving friendships, lets look at my first kind of "cheater"...

Painting Stone and Completed Warsong Champions

Aside from my Mountain King, I also recently completed a unit of Warsong Hordeblood Champions. (Photo at the end) I've carved stone in the past for this project, but today I'll demonstrate painting it instead.

Why might I decide to paint rather than carve? Well, for one, this type of stone is much harder than the turquoise used on Madrak. This makes it more difficult to shape and to drill a hole for pinning. Aesthetically, it's also trickier to have accessories on the stone like the metal trim and spikes.

The method for painting this stone was actually pretty straight forward, using only the paints pictured below. I also went with a stone that would blend with the colours of the rest of the figure.

The Elemental King Surfaces

Followers of My Facebook are aware that since the beginning of February, I've been working on the Trollblood Gargantuan model, the "Mountain King." (For the game Hordes from Privateer Press.)

I'm proud to say that 4 months later, my Elemental King is complete and a fearsome addition to my Hordebloods Project. I've posted some pics around, but this page contains the high resolution photos, including close ups of some of the detail. (I'd appreciate votes on CoolMiniOrNot and feel free to comment on DeviantArt.) He's also currently entered in the Golden Vinci 2015 and Bananalicious 2 contests.

Much of the process to create him was photographed and documented. I'll be posting some detailed WIP's over the next while.
Noteworthy Details:
  • Painting his Skin
    • This was the most asked question I received during his WIP.
    • Prime black, use a sponge to stipple grey and white layers, highlight with light airbrushing, a little more sponging, larger cracks and crevices painted black, then washes to deepen the subtle wrinkles, highlight with white pigment, (weathering powder) then finished with a can of satin hard coat and a layer of airbrushed matte varnish.
  • Painting the Crystals
    • I liked the stone I painted for Mulg and was going for a similar look here.
    • Prime black, airbrushed dark to light, shaded using dabs of wet paint blended with an eyeliner brush and finally edge highlighted.
  • Sculpting
    • His gut and left shoulder were resculpted to compensate for having to raise his lower arm up on that log.
  • Rust Effect on his collar, chains and brackets.
    • The original inspiration for this beast.
    • Painting a cold-blue/grey NMM, then layering real paint on iron, covered in multiple coats of an oxidizing (rust causing) chemical.
  • The 2 Turtles
    • A green-stuff base covered in pieces of real turtle scutes naturally shed by my turtles.
  • Special Effects
    • Heavy artists gel was used in layers to sculpt the special effects like water, flames, etc.
  • Plant Life
    • It's all real.
    • The greenery is hobby moss and there's mushroom like white growths.
    • Lots of small flowers, plants and buds collected from Windsor, Ontario, Canada surround the Water Whelp on his right side.
  • Pearly Nails
    • His finger and toenails were carved out with a Dremel and replaced with pearl chips.
  • Watery Base
    • Boxed in with overhead (transparency) paper and heavy gel to close the gaps.
    • Filled with Woodland Scenics Realistic Water, some gravel and sand added to different layers so the ground looks disturbed.
    • Topped with heavy gel to create waves and ripples.
Again, I'll go into specifics on how all this was achieved over the next while. In the meantime, be patient :)

High Res Photos:

What Mad Max: Fury Road Can Teach Us About Being Better Artists

TheWife and I saw Mad Max: Fury Road on opening night, (The kids in both of us were pretty excited thinking, "We're seeing a Mad Max movie in theater!") and it was a pretty great time. Not the non-stop action I was expecting, but pretty close.  Tom Hardy's Max didn't have much in the way for dialog and his "Batman Voice", while kinda terrible, shockingly sounded like the original Road Warrior Mel Gibson himself. Overall, it delivered on what you'd expect from a Mad Max movie: car chases, explosions, stunning visuals, powerful music and... inspiration.

I wrote about Object Oriented Hobbying once and the idea is that in order to make a large project manageable, you want to break it down in to smaller parts. Many of you have the skill to paint better, but it requires patience. If you're painting something highly detailed, take your time and focus on just one layer of paint or one section, like an arm or piece of armour, at a time. When you're modifying a figure, look at every aspect to see what you can change. (Just remember to look at it as a whole too, so you don't make it too busy.)


Colour Theory in 40k and Iron Kingdoms

I wanted to take a brief look at some of the existing armies we play with and see how the developers have applied colour theory to them. It's funny, that after doing all this research, I find myself catching colour patterns in movies.

While you can paint armies however you like, not everyone is interested in the painting aspect of wargaming and that's ok. They just want to game and have fun. For these players, it's nice to have a variety of painting options, which is something Games Workshop offers in excess through multiple sub-factions within an army with their own stories and often with twists to the armies and rules to match. Privateer Press has more unification in their world without room for separate sub-factions, though I've seen some great ones that players have come up with. About the only colour diversity that comes to mind are different coloured sashes depending on which Trollblood Warlock leads your army.

It was interesting because it seems that Games Workshop uses more complex colours. The results are very pleasing and bold themes often with a single overall colour complimented by well balanced secondary ones for clean accents. A third colour, either complementary or distant enough from the main colours to be contrasting, is then used to bring smaller details to the forefront - things like purity seals, soul stones and eyes. Organic models like Tyranids use more blends of similar colours.

Many of Privateer Press' schemes are simpler. They often use Black or White to either contrast or create a harmony with a single colour or a range of analogous ones. Because of the time-frame of the setting, there's still a lot of greys and browns used as weapons, unpainted armour and cloth / leather.

Ultramarines - Triadic

Blue, Yellow and Red

Overall colour is Blue with many Gold / Yellow accents. Red is used sparingly to stand out.

Blood Angels - Complementary Triad

Red, Yellow, Green

Uses Red overall and Gold / Yellow accents, which are nearly Analogous and therefor a pleasing. Green is then a Complement of Red and used for small details to stand out strongly.
Saim Hann - Complementary

Red and Green

Overall colour is Red with occasional Green details. White is used as an accent piece.

Other Examples: Cygnar - though for the strongest contrast, use Blue with Yellow-Orange instead of just plain Yellow.

Hive Fleet Behemoth - Double Analogous

Red, Violet, Blue-Violet

Strong amounts of Red, balances of Violet / Blue-Violet chitin armour. Violets and Lighter Red-Violets mixed in for biological parts and some weapons. Contrasting White weapons and claws.

Red, Orange and Yellow

Tones and Shades of Yellow / Orange to create Brown bone, Analogous and blending with the Red skin they protrude from.

Other Examples: Cryx, Circle Orboros, Skorne

Legion of Everblight - Cool Colours

Violets, Violet-Blue, Blue, Blue-Green

Lots of Cool colours, with soft organic blends, tints, shades, tones of Blue and Purple. Some areas have brighter Red-Violet for fleshy contrasts. Also communicates the northern setting.
Skorne - Warm Colours

Red, Red-Orange, Orange-Yellow, Yellow

Lots of Warm colours, but unlike the organic blends of Everblight, Skorne's armour is bold. Skipping Orange, it's sometimes used to highlight the Red and shade the Yellow. Also communicates the desert setting.
Retribution of Scyrah - Monochromatic


Much of Ret's theme is white overall, that make soft harmonies with lighter tints for glow effects. Contrasting this are darker shades and tones used for cloth and weapons.

You could paint this entire scheme using Trollblood Base and mixing with either White, Black or Grey.