tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-202165782024-03-13T23:12:52.739-04:00Wargaming TradecraftA site dedicated to the hobby side of miniature wargaming. I teach and share my experiences to help people learn all the steps, techniques, tools and tricks involved in painting, sculpting and modifying their own miniatures.Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.comBlogger647125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-5254800353897371472025-02-02T21:52:00.000-05:002020-02-03T23:09:40.205-05:00Welcome to Wargaming Tradecraft<br />
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Start with the navigation bar or search field above to choose the category you'd like to find information on.<br />
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My primary project is a Warcraft inspired <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/05/hordebloods.html">Hordebloods</a> army.<br />
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You can view my <a href="https://nplusplus.deviantart.com/gallery/">Gallery on DeviantArt</a> to see all my creations, miniature related and otherwise. I do have <a href="https://twitter.com/InDavesLife">Twitter</a> and <a href="https://www.instagram.com/indaveslife/">Instagram</a> as well.<br />
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<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-89334649844729471732021-04-08T11:00:00.002-04:002021-04-08T11:00:00.253-04:00Musou Black - An Actual Blackest Black<p></p><p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVXM3FeOrk5FpjgQ_h4hiRajvzEHAMxzNlJ2WFI2o0jeH9gI7-Xcad8znZYTh3ls3Ebk0Ju4zMVbfS-dDj3QP-HcIloHa2USf1CvhDK6HZ9lAudMCorFstoBqhfexYDODjHArtg/s537/00+-+Musou+Black.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="324" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNVXM3FeOrk5FpjgQ_h4hiRajvzEHAMxzNlJ2WFI2o0jeH9gI7-Xcad8znZYTh3ls3Ebk0Ju4zMVbfS-dDj3QP-HcIloHa2USf1CvhDK6HZ9lAudMCorFstoBqhfexYDODjHArtg/s320/00+-+Musou+Black.jpg" /></a> As some of you may be aware, I'm on a bit of a quest to find the blackest black paint... I love working with contrasts between dark shadows and lighter highlights and like the idea of creating evil or pure darkness... void-like eyes, etc... This journey has even taken me to painting with actual carbon nano-tubes that NASA uses, but that was a foolhardy endeavor. (Though I like to think I'm the first miniature artist to have travelled that road.)</p><p></p><p>BUT NOW, thanks to a video I saw on Facebook, I present you with MUSOU BLACK and boy, am I extremely pleased with the results.</p><p>There are a few drawbacks however, so read on...</p><p>(I didn't receive anything for this review)</p><p><span></span></p><a name='more'></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>
<p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Usage</h2><p>The paint itself was FANTASTIC to work with. It IS acrylic paint and has the consistency of what you'd expect - thin, nice flow, doesn't obscure details. If you're familiar with Black 2.0, etc that stuff was very thick.</p><p>Those without airbrushes or just looking to paint with a brush will be happy to hear that it also flows nicely AND can be used with mediums. I tried thinning with some Liquitex Slo-Dri and Curries flow aid without any problem and very little impact on the finish. (Just don't add too much thinner to make it wash-like and you'll be fine.)</p><p>The below photo has 2 soldiers face up toward my overhead lights - left with a regular black paint in the visor, right with Musou. It's a small difference, but it just doesn't pick up the highlight. If you're looking for this kind of nuance, here you are.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwcnlIqOflAOb4TVnhVXGMIw92SoAGef30aHExBTwlhl1H1lymY5zeOEGp9hxtsLtgMAO-gHX-ZiOV-Bv5Ce6ysJvJwfogwyph7_1t7kwzV585XhsGpCcCdSlSm4okjSTLcafNg/s279/04+-+uses.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="163" data-original-width="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhwcnlIqOflAOb4TVnhVXGMIw92SoAGef30aHExBTwlhl1H1lymY5zeOEGp9hxtsLtgMAO-gHX-ZiOV-Bv5Ce6ysJvJwfogwyph7_1t7kwzV585XhsGpCcCdSlSm4okjSTLcafNg/s0/04+-+uses.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Airbrushing</h2><p>I was able to run this through an airbrush with and without regular thinner, but turn the PSI up and use a larger needle. I usually Varnish without thinning with my larger Iwata at around 36 PSI and that worked fine with Musou.</p><p>Musou recommends you use multiple thin coats to achieve a nice dark coat and I found the same.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNazKNG0fPfQwknxTGmqcnzGQfNlV_EMMh7PweeJhEXQhgjQ956qxwbAi-5fmq-L6YgxayAeGJTBODjP0Eg9gQXlaRVEq7FmSQzIhmHaTHh1H5vK_VKlTueDrTRILfUNcWXfpgg/s430/first+coat.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="310" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFNazKNG0fPfQwknxTGmqcnzGQfNlV_EMMh7PweeJhEXQhgjQ956qxwbAi-5fmq-L6YgxayAeGJTBODjP0Eg9gQXlaRVEq7FmSQzIhmHaTHh1H5vK_VKlTueDrTRILfUNcWXfpgg/s320/first+coat.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">After 3 coats, this was INCREDIBLE.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvp7Xafc0CcUgXDHRcjWjJA7Yi-zND5wNiOXiBI4sV25gGEMLZ0_8uFP4C202jtr6SJldzi1vgKDg6iDWT4QH2t_3BW-JRPfBtOjnsEV9XnDI2RYvbjjZSgQFkxfMBM605HBiwQ/s625/01+-+Musou+Black+Example.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="557" data-original-width="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXvp7Xafc0CcUgXDHRcjWjJA7Yi-zND5wNiOXiBI4sV25gGEMLZ0_8uFP4C202jtr6SJldzi1vgKDg6iDWT4QH2t_3BW-JRPfBtOjnsEV9XnDI2RYvbjjZSgQFkxfMBM605HBiwQ/s320/01+-+Musou+Black+Example.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><p></p><p>Now, you may be asking, what kind of light source are these photos taken with? Well, first off, you can see the background is lit up. But if you'd like to see the lighting, this is my setup... I have an LED Ottlite and circular neon lamp - that's some strong light hitting the mini.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip1Ofl1XFN_1DfXNhy3t9EDbNCTW1YWfJFRKRd1At6EFnQJrjNh_Q5BIRFYZ3PEpnbIcgqF1csC6kpDXnYUNhiFGMRa-zeWplii7ZWHscEAzAJRQ6ghxzB1W79iQkU8Jki_SlBFQ/s527/02+-+lighting.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="527" data-original-width="363" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEip1Ofl1XFN_1DfXNhy3t9EDbNCTW1YWfJFRKRd1At6EFnQJrjNh_Q5BIRFYZ3PEpnbIcgqF1csC6kpDXnYUNhiFGMRa-zeWplii7ZWHscEAzAJRQ6ghxzB1W79iQkU8Jki_SlBFQ/s320/02+-+lighting.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><p>Lets move things to my computer desk. The desk, mouse pad and tower are all there for light strength reference.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGplvMaa2up-NOfhrTqLj1upc9MmJBzwAjOcgZXDqgoz2eNdi4F0NbcuTEOlgXB9zxqFdpfvZ6VBJIgcXmbOSUBfsqJzwaKL8kdGjIL1PZpOoTrZESbqmbkxWkrDLZLjNjtFd_XQ/s600/03+-+Regular+Lighting.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="467" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGplvMaa2up-NOfhrTqLj1upc9MmJBzwAjOcgZXDqgoz2eNdi4F0NbcuTEOlgXB9zxqFdpfvZ6VBJIgcXmbOSUBfsqJzwaKL8kdGjIL1PZpOoTrZESbqmbkxWkrDLZLjNjtFd_XQ/s320/03+-+Regular+Lighting.jpg" /></a></div><p></p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Thoughts</h2><p>Is it a perfect void of darkness? No, but it's very close. They're also honest in their advertisement, which was a sticking point for me with Black 2.0 - I didn't feel Stuart Semple was portraying the results of his paint in an accurate way.</p><p>Feel free to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/02/black-20-worth-hype.html" target="_blank">read my review</a></span> on that money grab. (And the below photo was taken with just my neon light.) TL;DR, Black 2.0 is a thick ultra matte black paint, but not ultra black.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2PgXsMvld5Znpnm_oe33SC824VvFsUl1jGJdgkeAe9o6QZXJgwYQtK5l802f5HVuEJCjm98bc_tOUcKwlnJAG5nQu7_SddROVqtOpuv6hU2Ggf1JVe4PHPooUbMumfXvbnpjDw/s579/black2.0+-+1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="282" data-original-width="579" height="195" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL2PgXsMvld5Znpnm_oe33SC824VvFsUl1jGJdgkeAe9o6QZXJgwYQtK5l802f5HVuEJCjm98bc_tOUcKwlnJAG5nQu7_SddROVqtOpuv6hU2Ggf1JVe4PHPooUbMumfXvbnpjDw/w400-h195/black2.0+-+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div><br /></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">Other Options</h2><div>I just saw this today and wanted to tag it on... mostly because I'm intrigued as to whether a similar effect could be created with <span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/10/using-colour-shift-paints.html">colour shift</a></span> paints lightly dusted over something you've painted with Musou.</div><div><br /></div><iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/53JclJwR4Po" title="YouTube video player" width="560"></iframe><div><br /></div><br /><h1 style="text-align: left;">Down Sides (Uh-Oh)</h1><p>As I mentioned at the beginning, this product isn't perfect, there are a few things that are very important to be aware of... These issues stem from the fact that the final finish is ... well, "powdery" is a close description, but not entirely accurate.</p><p>I think that while these issues prevent it from being a universal blackest black, there are still plenty of applications within our hobby.</p><h2 style="text-align: left;">Varnish</h2><p>You can't varnish it.</p><p>Aside from the fact that putting another product with it's own reflective properties over something like this is going to completely change it, varnish just doesn't layer nicely over it.</p><p>So, my suggestion would be to try and approach your mini too paint and varnish it first, then apply Musou next. (The same way you'd have to approach it if you were using <span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2019/09/molotow-chrome-pens-and-3d-printed.html">Molotow Chrome</a></span> or gel mediums / special effects.)</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtME4KxmgDWLdMj8yw2ZtGQ_kE7bjrvViw91-vah5SSX15vFk5o1rYH6Dn9KfBsr3gaLC2-Dup0hazYdN6n_wR1hJpMSR3aeQ6slZuXiTZabqd4M1JcxEXGU8LfuET0imbRRfKg/s503/11+-+Varnish.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="503" data-original-width="301" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWtME4KxmgDWLdMj8yw2ZtGQ_kE7bjrvViw91-vah5SSX15vFk5o1rYH6Dn9KfBsr3gaLC2-Dup0hazYdN6n_wR1hJpMSR3aeQ6slZuXiTZabqd4M1JcxEXGU8LfuET0imbRRfKg/s320/11+-+Varnish.jpg" /></a></div><h2 style="text-align: left;">No-Touchy</h2><div>Yeahhhhh... you also shouldn't touch it. You basically end up damaging properties of the paint which create the ultra matte/black look. (But they sell other materials that can be handled.) To be clear, in none of my tests did it actually rub off on my finger - the paint is well dried and stuck to the surface.</div><div><br /></div><div>But basically you can see below how it gets shiny if you rub it.</div><div><br /></div><div>This means it's fine for show pieces, but can cause some logistical issues for game-ready minis. You'll want to plan how and where you're going to paint it. For ultra-dark shadows, which would be tough to touch, shouldn't be a problem.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqNRYRSrreTMhjjDMXfppeVMVTG-XFGzTIX3uGoO6hYjBmZe9K-Emwftf4DlNRNVXdCM7gs7napSakBm-Uc7Be8n2XU0P9CVf0kBunxRYvgmwBd0LQqygP08VqIE5CSbP1BJlnVQ/s448/10+-+Touch+Test.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="448" data-original-width="325" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqNRYRSrreTMhjjDMXfppeVMVTG-XFGzTIX3uGoO6hYjBmZe9K-Emwftf4DlNRNVXdCM7gs7napSakBm-Uc7Be8n2XU0P9CVf0kBunxRYvgmwBd0LQqygP08VqIE5CSbP1BJlnVQ/w290-h400/10+-+Touch+Test.jpg" width="290" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(Worth noting, my bottlecap test only got a single coat, so it's not as black.)</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">The Company - KoPro</h1><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVfk7_kkDpBTx3PmYK0EF-DqYf_vf8t-L8uPZ0_pLIKTqMSI94gkBp6p9OpMc-c-hu4_1BCRSqyteuGuTYLi5eowP8izYohel1PWtKiiRld2Lr5kSGOgw2dNbJbnMPw37x_xQrOg/s661/musou-black-paint.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="290" data-original-width="661" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVfk7_kkDpBTx3PmYK0EF-DqYf_vf8t-L8uPZ0_pLIKTqMSI94gkBp6p9OpMc-c-hu4_1BCRSqyteuGuTYLi5eowP8izYohel1PWtKiiRld2Lr5kSGOgw2dNbJbnMPw37x_xQrOg/s320/musou-black-paint.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.ko-pro.black/">Musou Black</a></span> is a Japanese product, so I wasn't sure what to expect with shipping since my overseas orders usually come from Europe. The price for a bottle of paint is quite reasonable, though shipping actually cost more. (So order with friends?) They processed the order fast and shipping time was less than a week, during a time when stuff from Europe was taking almost 2 weeks.</div><div><br /></div><div>They have <span style="font-size: medium;"><a href="https://www.ko-pro.black/2020/05/14/black-3-0-vs-musou-black/">their own blog post</a></span> comparing their product to Black 3.0, which had similar results to what I found with Black 2.0.</div><div><br /></div><div>They sell some other products that utilize their ultra black coatings as well THAT ARE handleable and washable like their <a href="https://www.ko-pro.black/200213blackestcar/">Fine Shut</a>. They also warn that while you might be seeing videos of people painting cars with their paint, they only recommend that for short-term show and not for driving. (See my above examples of touching.)</div><div><br /></div><h1 style="text-align: left;">Overall</h1><div>I'm extremely happy with this product and recommend not hesitating buying it if you're curious.</div><div><br /></div><div>Not being able to varnish it makes sense, but not being able to touch it does kind of suck.... Most of what I want to use it for are things like deep shadows, void-filled undead eye sockets, gun barrels, etc.</div><div><br /></div><div>But it would have been nice to create some digital landscape (Think Tron) effects. Though I'm curious to experiment with a few other blacks and ultra-matte varnishes to see how close I can come to replicate that look.</div><div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
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<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-84628446060811443912021-02-03T10:00:00.025-05:002021-02-03T10:00:01.397-05:00Impact Miniatures Review: Follow-Up<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcY1jb2JzBsEQ1EN9KUAxWIunXFbiXtDYIky4fZGj3inv7XUWVjTP0LvIH5RTwgXS_kyKHLgfJRY5eeCmt9kzODf4yoEC0wlbMZQ8RHq88PqX8yFsHilnwczjwMuaPbTlLrQtHkA/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="163" data-original-width="429" height="244" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcY1jb2JzBsEQ1EN9KUAxWIunXFbiXtDYIky4fZGj3inv7XUWVjTP0LvIH5RTwgXS_kyKHLgfJRY5eeCmt9kzODf4yoEC0wlbMZQ8RHq88PqX8yFsHilnwczjwMuaPbTlLrQtHkA/w640-h244/image.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>This is a follow up to my <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2019/03/impact-miniatures-3d-printing-review.html" target="_blank">Previous Post</a></span> that compared <a href="https://www.impactminiatures.com/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">Impact Miniatures 3D</span></a> printing to that of Hero Forge. If you haven't read it, the long and short of it is that you can expect even higher quality and more affordable printing by designing a miniature with Hero Forge, buying the STL, then having Impact Miniatures print the model for you. (Or really anything these days, from Thingiverse to the numerous Kickstarters for miniatures that are out there.)</p><p>Since my original post I've taken many opportunities to mention Impact's services on social media to people interested in getting their own miniatures printed or liked what they'd designed on Hero Forge and were looking for better printing options.</p><p>And yes, he's still able to operate during Covid!</p><p><i>(Full disclosure - the "Punk Turtle" miniature I designed was printed by Impact for free as a review piece due to the details on him, but the minis / parts I and my friends have purchased we paid for.)</i></p><p><i></i></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja8Hu81DEiZ2y7dFWsQHhXA0FFfdj24jZgNaH-4ji5u7Vw96GFM3h7A8s7JAbvw2YPTvb5AjR1cF1t9Oo-46xJRVKThNHJRjl9asvNiOvAPzl6LGge5KwGfpbp6LmwzDwUAVcQ-g/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="895" height="376" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja8Hu81DEiZ2y7dFWsQHhXA0FFfdj24jZgNaH-4ji5u7Vw96GFM3h7A8s7JAbvw2YPTvb5AjR1cF1t9Oo-46xJRVKThNHJRjl9asvNiOvAPzl6LGge5KwGfpbp6LmwzDwUAVcQ-g/w640-h376/image.png" width="640" /></a></i></div><p></p><span><a name='more'></a></span><p>So, what's this follow up all about?</p><p>Well, Impact's business is going strong and he's upgraded his printers since, so this is a simple update and comparison piece.</p><p>Getting it out of the way... Like the previous print, (Below, Left) the new one (Below, Right) still needs some level of supports which can leave behind some imperfections. This is the same with ANY resin printing. While you don't have mold lines to clean, there are these dots to file / cut / fill. It can depend on the complexity of the miniature, some will be worse, some better.</p><p>Kickstarters will often include models "pre-supported" which means they've typically taken the additional time to improve the support placement.<br />(It should also be noted that where the arm "blends" into the turtle shell, this is how the 3D model is sculpted.)</p><p>HOWEVER, lets look at what's improved - The definition on the turtle shell between the "scutes" is much more refined. The tear in the jacket has sharper edges and even the straps around the cuffs of the jacket are more pronounced with better defined buttons.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPtUsjpCT8vz_MVbKhMme8YYnstSHlD7hvo2-4MarfejJceS-eFal1uhYQf6mFJ6XRYv5MH6kG-lrDWsomRrKqxUqa1r4RxodwSNnl3Ft7GDloGzPyFMXJkwY4UKNIk_bge14tQ/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="383" data-original-width="566" height="434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjPtUsjpCT8vz_MVbKhMme8YYnstSHlD7hvo2-4MarfejJceS-eFal1uhYQf6mFJ6XRYv5MH6kG-lrDWsomRrKqxUqa1r4RxodwSNnl3Ft7GDloGzPyFMXJkwY4UKNIk_bge14tQ/w640-h434/image.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPn5spnujQaDZ1lMKhxIAlAHmjqRf53qPjGvUu5DMdKxwmw_rNmLFNhojdTMP1ZyKNViPI8yJ5T4ledoaZLmKZU9Rrsd47m_Rpn3_oflKZz2KMRtw7crAt1XersBBRf2iTvU71g/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="314" data-original-width="246" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTPn5spnujQaDZ1lMKhxIAlAHmjqRf53qPjGvUu5DMdKxwmw_rNmLFNhojdTMP1ZyKNViPI8yJ5T4ledoaZLmKZU9Rrsd47m_Rpn3_oflKZz2KMRtw7crAt1XersBBRf2iTvU71g/" width="188" /></a></div>One flaw I found was in the glasses... The slits of the shades are there, but not well defined. You can see the painted version where the slits are fairly prominent.<p></p><p>The irony though is all around them the detail is better - the bolts on his head, nose ring, nostrils and even his teeth, especially the smaller front teeth.</p><p>The tear in his jacket arm is another well defined piece of detail.</p><p><br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSu0r9F8CIxaWgFao-iRMn8AWZdxbRIKRYmCSpURY5dj2aW-BWqRNcohSGAnReDNsYAI-D_vunPd3m0o-yPsQFS_WhrIcD0dT16k4FsZ-WSbGesNNQ-17M1QKIOTlnLBhLEwdtMQ/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="453" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSu0r9F8CIxaWgFao-iRMn8AWZdxbRIKRYmCSpURY5dj2aW-BWqRNcohSGAnReDNsYAI-D_vunPd3m0o-yPsQFS_WhrIcD0dT16k4FsZ-WSbGesNNQ-17M1QKIOTlnLBhLEwdtMQ/w461-h640/image.png" width="461" /></a></div><br />Finally, if we swing behind and below, the original is pictured in the small box, while the new print is the larger photo below... and the definition again is incredible. The turtle shell is well defined, so is the pocket in his jeans. The texture of the surface of the print is smooth and shaped well. Even the muscles behind the knees stand out well.<p></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQyEL19wzNEl47nKr4Uxe_r4h9y9JQEfESK6iQrA9IHmbLCSsDboEYwD-AHSIUTfAtboRiRzn-PbRMRqZ4Tp_8wuEWqQtNSrycIXA7bwLdQIHvI4La9u58bYIgxctBA8BApfSy-g/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="758" data-original-width="536" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQyEL19wzNEl47nKr4Uxe_r4h9y9JQEfESK6iQrA9IHmbLCSsDboEYwD-AHSIUTfAtboRiRzn-PbRMRqZ4Tp_8wuEWqQtNSrycIXA7bwLdQIHvI4La9u58bYIgxctBA8BApfSy-g/w453-h640/image.png" width="453" /></a></div><br />I don't want to get too wordy on this follow-up, because I really think the photos tell the story themselves. 3D printing is the greatest thing to happen to miniatures in a long time and in the last few years Kickstarter has given many artists the opportunity to create some gorgeous content for people to print at home or get printed through a service like that which Impact Miniatures offers.<p></p><p>Again, if you want to read the original comparison with Hero Forge and a deeper dive into what Impact Miniatures can do for you, <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2019/04/painting-punk-turtle-and-jeans.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">take a read of the original review</span></a>.</p><div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-21344790618711263782020-06-02T10:00:00.000-04:002020-06-02T10:00:06.488-04:00Nightstalkers: Sutter's Nightmare (King's of War)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been meaning to post this project for a while, as I painted this army up over the winter. It's tabletop quality, not like my usual <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/05/hordebloods.html">Hordebloods</a></span> level of detail, but it's completed and I'm happy with it!<br />
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One of the things I'd looked forward to with this army was creating scenic bases, rather than individual models. It's a new way to create your miniatures and allows you to combine terrain making with basing.<br />
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I took this idea a step further using inspiration from a scene on one of my favorite scary movies, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GR2AkeVOBwg">In the Mouth of Madness</a>. (Which also stars one of my favorite actors, Sam Neill and directed by the legendary John Carpenter.) In this scene, reality tears and Neill stares into the void. It's a simple concept but it added extra flavour to my bases.<br />
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This won't be a tutorial - that will come later. But I will discuss concepts and details.<br />
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OK, so - goals:<br />
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<ul>
<li>I wanted the army to be completed in a reasonable amount of time.</li>
<ul>
<li>This meant tabletop quality.</li>
<li>To paint them quick and still highlight detail, I tried out the new Games Workshop Contrast Paints.</li>
</ul>
<li>I wanted it to appear as if they'd come from the pages of an occult book.</li>
<ul>
<li>For these I printed pages from the Necronomicon onto light yellow paper and covered in paint to age them.</li>
</ul>
<li>Not just coming from the pages, but tearing through reality. Blurring the lines between what's real and fiction. Is the book merely a portal into our world? Or is the world a reality woven from the words in the book?</li>
<ul>
<li>To execute this, all the bases have some level of detail where reality is literally being "torn" open to reveal an inky black void on the other side of the pages of the book.</li>
<li>The book is created by gluing down portions of the Necronomicon which are ripped outwards.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Void</b></li>
<ul>
<li>The inky blackness is made from <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/02/advanced-fire-effects-with-gels.html">Heavy Sculpting Gel</a> mixed with <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/gesso-paint-on-primer.html">Black Gesso</a> and covered in matte varnish. (Some of the void creatures are created the same way, either covering an existing form or with a wire skeleton.)</li>
</ul>
<li>For the colours, I'm working with a limited palette:</li>
<ul>
<li>Browns and yellows for the core of the creatures, with accents of red and white tipped weapons.</li>
<li>Terrain is primarily rendered in the green spectrum, (Grass, leaves and stone.) with some brown dirt and paths, small red rose bushes and some yellow hay and flowers.</li>
<li>Even the water is coloured green and to keep the limited palette I've used white sand / shells for all the shore and lake features.</li>
</ul>
<li>Sturdy Scenic Bases</li>
<ul>
<li>Each unit has a thin wooden base.</li>
<li>Most units have 3D printed structures that I designed myself to build the form of the terrain they're built upon.</li>
</ul>
<li>Tokens needed to stand out from the rest of the army somehow so they don't blend in.</li>
<ul>
<li>I ended up going with blue, taking a line from the movie where the author makes everything change to blue, his favorite colour, to prove the control he has over the world.</li>
<li>Tokens were also 3D printed.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
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Overall I feel I executed a nice army with a warm colour scheme on a cool backdrop with strong white accents.</div>
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Below, you can see the full army. Click through for more army photos and individual shots and descriptions.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">They Live!</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Full Army Photo</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Partial Army Photos</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigiC2oP-DXhBUtMpWlDgkhpQSyI-7PvPNsVorj99JuIsV4YmfFCWLGrHn0n8UlTEMnVsgn90wNA81upe0X7wpbgBH2L9w_E2IpQLG6yZWaHAR6qKXblrMkdEQ-NqLwKwGIzMgYjw/s1600/Nightstalkers+Trio+3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="638" data-original-width="661" height="385" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigiC2oP-DXhBUtMpWlDgkhpQSyI-7PvPNsVorj99JuIsV4YmfFCWLGrHn0n8UlTEMnVsgn90wNA81upe0X7wpbgBH2L9w_E2IpQLG6yZWaHAR6qKXblrMkdEQ-NqLwKwGIzMgYjw/s400/Nightstalkers+Trio+3.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Gaming Aids</span><br />
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So, Kings of War isn't a card-based game system, but I ended up cutting down and laminating copies of the rules from the book so that each unit has a rule card that fits in a standard card box. I also took a white card box and airbrushed it in my army colours.<br />
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Again, using blue to stand out from the rest of my army. The tokens themselves were 3D printed, airbrushed and I glued anti-slip padding to the bottom of them.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM7-uI2iBEcSHD29TihEh0KV4SsKmOsy-uceKYsBQGlE07MZWkK4foQ7oJWlrA_GXT2aPaQioeIzEgs9jYfsmXAZQm9Ld1MnBZtPKivskGtI-qtrrjHmsyyL86orvk-NR7Ggp8Jg/s1600/Tokens.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="366" data-original-width="623" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiM7-uI2iBEcSHD29TihEh0KV4SsKmOsy-uceKYsBQGlE07MZWkK4foQ7oJWlrA_GXT2aPaQioeIzEgs9jYfsmXAZQm9Ld1MnBZtPKivskGtI-qtrrjHmsyyL86orvk-NR7Ggp8Jg/s320/Tokens.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nothing super-fancy about the dice, though they're black and a little sparkly to create a void appearance.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Individual Photos</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Banshees</span><br />
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I used some ghosts from a GW Undead box set and covered them in void, tearing through a wheat field.<br />
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This fake wheat is really difficult to work with. I found the trick was to get bunches together, place a drop of glue in the MIDDLE, then once it dries just cut it in half. I also used a paintbrush to apply some of the void on these, to keep a level of facial and body structure.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Bloodworms</span><br />
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Who doesn't like a bunch of angry tentacles??? Well, I suppose anyone on the other side of these wire-frame, void-covered wreckers of reality.<br />
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What's neat here is that entire grass-covered section on the left unit is just paper bulging upward, the base is way down below. There's like... 20? tentacles on each base though and they hold the paper really well. To avoid making a mess, I started with just the wires sticking straight up, covered in void, THEN brought the paper down on them after it all dried. Then I was able to bend all the tentacles into position and add more void to blend them together. I used a small siphon/tube to push water effect into the hard to reach areas. Also, to build on the "reality torn asunder" instead of just a hill, I glued some of the rosebushes on sideways to suggest things are wrong.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Butchers</span></div>
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The muscle of my army.. they sure do look the part.<br />
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For a few of these, I cut off limbs to make them fit in tight spaces and extended void out as the creatures leave the abyss.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Butcher Fleshripper</span><br />
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A hero Butcher, it's only fitting that he's dragging the skin of a victim along, chained up as the ground itself opens up to swallow it.<br />
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To built up the mouth swallowing the victim, it's many thin layers of sculpting gel, pulled up and allowed to dry. The body is actually the form of a person, 3D printed with clear resin, heated up and melted into form, then washed red. I think it turned out..... just OK. Others seem to think it looks like a tongue.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Doppelgangers</span><br />
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This is a unit that changes into their opponents in combat to use their offensive stat lines. So, I made the unit out of miniatures from a variety of places to demonstrate this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzdlFrUzHa04ZUOIq5gVIF5DWYltwk5vcYR_7HwamDbvPLdxCNSgb8Ts-_rHA7MS2jLmZAInFqza2YJkuroZek6hRspBfrz5-gFTyGZlUVHQyOyoqEGhLygu04nfRHWjb9W2nHg/s1600/Dopplegangers1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="372" data-original-width="1092" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKzdlFrUzHa04ZUOIq5gVIF5DWYltwk5vcYR_7HwamDbvPLdxCNSgb8Ts-_rHA7MS2jLmZAInFqza2YJkuroZek6hRspBfrz5-gFTyGZlUVHQyOyoqEGhLygu04nfRHWjb9W2nHg/s640/Dopplegangers1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg8qnPsHzdsN55Wx1HA7ax6D2EvGcPmZ4lkcQbq7P7z9QNHjtF6MJhMQsmeTd5XpcOt2Cx4HIxBH0DffWrJ5C_tAaOzQZJzHE65xvKsAYpl5u5hoi9y1RcTYzyMlgUD4vzRAyQhQ/s1600/Dopplegangers2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="412" data-original-width="1420" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg8qnPsHzdsN55Wx1HA7ax6D2EvGcPmZ4lkcQbq7P7z9QNHjtF6MJhMQsmeTd5XpcOt2Cx4HIxBH0DffWrJ5C_tAaOzQZJzHE65xvKsAYpl5u5hoi9y1RcTYzyMlgUD4vzRAyQhQ/s640/Dopplegangers2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Dreadfiend</span><br />
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This mounted wraith is exploding from a row of rosebushes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIRxipUlP4F54LKl-oZI0FJ2gy_dPrs9-RjVRqMZiKRNnytlah9hmqTFY7euShnNMW2eyK6l1UyYDGto-e3GfmSCAotZk4luitDWTMUtV07oLaf1e6-J4smIva-DPcdYx_3BTC8A/s1600/Dreadfiend.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="419" data-original-width="1146" height="232" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIRxipUlP4F54LKl-oZI0FJ2gy_dPrs9-RjVRqMZiKRNnytlah9hmqTFY7euShnNMW2eyK6l1UyYDGto-e3GfmSCAotZk4luitDWTMUtV07oLaf1e6-J4smIva-DPcdYx_3BTC8A/s640/Dreadfiend.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Horror's</span><br />
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These are a bunch of individual spellcasters and I wanted to represent each of the tilesets within my army.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgreDw3QpH94fJ8kREtkjlBP2oXgX-KBDD7I3PD6u8S1hXH7rQzfPcRVtICnsXhvURp5EnHmS94_rm8dIdvUUQPIH26BxnW1Mv6_3hE7rKKQd5W96krnZmwAnfmv6vG-F9E7DdyXw/s1600/Horror1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="360" data-original-width="668" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgreDw3QpH94fJ8kREtkjlBP2oXgX-KBDD7I3PD6u8S1hXH7rQzfPcRVtICnsXhvURp5EnHmS94_rm8dIdvUUQPIH26BxnW1Mv6_3hE7rKKQd5W96krnZmwAnfmv6vG-F9E7DdyXw/s640/Horror1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirD7Z4MwU-CbeG_FFQQgkGJUkKt81p2yV0ZYpT_QvBUp3bXfNZAouHlRTqNpiv2qdJcuXsS9jtVHo9SKxJ1KyJcVyUKkXXWgo_JgtzKMMW7WnrVPmH9hkLgi29F3yzoFGRdI63Iw/s1600/Horror2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="938" height="313" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirD7Z4MwU-CbeG_FFQQgkGJUkKt81p2yV0ZYpT_QvBUp3bXfNZAouHlRTqNpiv2qdJcuXsS9jtVHo9SKxJ1KyJcVyUKkXXWgo_JgtzKMMW7WnrVPmH9hkLgi29F3yzoFGRdI63Iw/s640/Horror2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Horror Riftweavers</span><br />
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OK, quick story... so Nightstalkers meta changed from 2nd to 3rd edition. You used to want lots of Horrors and then in 3rd... you don't need the 7 that came in the starter box. So the game was like "OK, here's a Monster called Horror Riftweavers but just glue 5 Horrors to the base." Well, that wasn't good enough for me. If the spellcasting support model has a "Monster" version and it's "weaving" a "rift", then I'm going to sculpt what that summoned rift monster is!<br />
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Wireframe skeleton and LOTS of void gel.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDERp6YRFqqe7Mh5WIr528v-68W5pRDQqHFt5uTjmBYW15AEMQ6ZJ1rnuz4_74PhbY4fWnRmFCp2aXxBH_p7aFPDvHg3pZkmzUAOjEoTWx7B7VCAfSrLcWttbGY6Fe5qICvbz4Zg/s1600/Horror+Riftweavers1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="509" data-original-width="1001" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDERp6YRFqqe7Mh5WIr528v-68W5pRDQqHFt5uTjmBYW15AEMQ6ZJ1rnuz4_74PhbY4fWnRmFCp2aXxBH_p7aFPDvHg3pZkmzUAOjEoTWx7B7VCAfSrLcWttbGY6Fe5qICvbz4Zg/s640/Horror+Riftweavers1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKK3HGjZoB08GCoX6Kg6ov4SHvNKU8jtr9tpiJCKE1HscLRGsTX52R4R3Zo887sCLvhvFBBFEuCFiG50F_u_1mZXFT4I34cn62IF4YVzG0JIMEm0dF-WrwTeI3L9YfvGKoEFJ9pQ/s1600/Horror+Riftweavers2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="592" data-original-width="773" height="490" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKK3HGjZoB08GCoX6Kg6ov4SHvNKU8jtr9tpiJCKE1HscLRGsTX52R4R3Zo887sCLvhvFBBFEuCFiG50F_u_1mZXFT4I34cn62IF4YVzG0JIMEm0dF-WrwTeI3L9YfvGKoEFJ9pQ/s640/Horror+Riftweavers2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Needlefangs</span></div>
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Swimming in from the ocean, this swarm of teeth and sticky appendages is ready to devour!<br />
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The full water base was made from an acrylic form glued together, everything placed inside, then filled with a clear resin mixed with some GW Camoshade wash. (Not the product you're supposed to use to colour the resin, but it worked - I poured a test first to make sure.) I definitely learned to pour resin outside in the future... the basement wasn't far enough away....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_or4cGxMhfskYKALazs0lfHKOoQRfRd1oILFzBfXspdnnYnWfQX6f67YsYxWumucb-09KJO60B_USHtH4BvVeuzE8R32xbInx_Wu9HN1YCSqeEmgTAcJ4JpGCxOP54n0lEvI9ow/s1600/Needlefangs1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="1600" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_or4cGxMhfskYKALazs0lfHKOoQRfRd1oILFzBfXspdnnYnWfQX6f67YsYxWumucb-09KJO60B_USHtH4BvVeuzE8R32xbInx_Wu9HN1YCSqeEmgTAcJ4JpGCxOP54n0lEvI9ow/s640/Needlefangs1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAo2BtdjUELJBr9rRa1EQKXzWCnKZZBnmrgCoKrMiuwXbtbjeWiDF3Gb56HIc6CICisU2i3S_DmlPz0Lw1PdB13bh5ZwZCxNpV-jQu8SXfjCfykfo-aIPuqwAHjHsjiCByZJcnEg/s1600/Needlefangs2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="410" data-original-width="953" height="274" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAo2BtdjUELJBr9rRa1EQKXzWCnKZZBnmrgCoKrMiuwXbtbjeWiDF3Gb56HIc6CICisU2i3S_DmlPz0Lw1PdB13bh5ZwZCxNpV-jQu8SXfjCfykfo-aIPuqwAHjHsjiCByZJcnEg/s640/Needlefangs2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Phantoms</span><br />
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These were fun to make.. they fly, so I put Void under them. I really like how I built them coming from the trees and they fill the base well. I cut the bottom half off the one in the center and brought void in from the sides, coalescing into him.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGJDsF1OZNe9Ba2oCy_z4kTMWH3sqnsJEdU1YLPKAnRsIDGV4yAyl_5CCt-Aj8G7nMxl86X8aOj725tG-aPRA1Y1fYVXW0Br82DwTOSQK-mkLYiS8wYS_w8jDQGOChSkDQhwgUg/s1600/Phantoms.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="376" data-original-width="901" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjGJDsF1OZNe9Ba2oCy_z4kTMWH3sqnsJEdU1YLPKAnRsIDGV4yAyl_5CCt-Aj8G7nMxl86X8aOj725tG-aPRA1Y1fYVXW0Br82DwTOSQK-mkLYiS8wYS_w8jDQGOChSkDQhwgUg/s640/Phantoms.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Shade</span><br />
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Really proud of this guy. Story is, Shades are created when two Phantoms combine to kill themselves. I wanted to portray that.<br />
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I cut a Phantom into thirds, then used void to piece it back together.<br />
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Also cut a deep slice into my thumb while working on this guy in a moment of foolishness... it bled. A lot. Apparently, enough blood and peroxide creates a lot of heat.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivf7Iz7Z9u-10OotgyosWdzrgyoBVnfK2Q80r094yBU6eqySK3hkKcZv168-ty9LLXWWRgaFLcuymvdkjREe8zbGniey0ZRxqfRgOYU5R20PHgULyEY7rmV1Sho_HaABXWiwOdwA/s1600/Shade.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="922" data-original-width="802" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivf7Iz7Z9u-10OotgyosWdzrgyoBVnfK2Q80r094yBU6eqySK3hkKcZv168-ty9LLXWWRgaFLcuymvdkjREe8zbGniey0ZRxqfRgOYU5R20PHgULyEY7rmV1Sho_HaABXWiwOdwA/s640/Shade.png" width="556" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Portal of Despair</span><br />
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There isn't a model for this, so it's all custom. A 3D printed structure covered in the Necronomicon, with a wireframe void beast pushing it's way into our reality while the ground caves in before it. Tried to keep the style similar to other Nightstalkers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzuoIkz2P167WFcdhxBXlaw04m-4huxCWoI_mAdz2EnAyj_jnlmKsffPT45filLxofqUFbsFMxdCyxq8nLWy8_f_X5CkCAfTwmKr8mwW4W4VuDCPiCqXQCrhsFxy6XFVbOBD8_Q/s1600/Portal+of+Despair3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="613" data-original-width="1008" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpzuoIkz2P167WFcdhxBXlaw04m-4huxCWoI_mAdz2EnAyj_jnlmKsffPT45filLxofqUFbsFMxdCyxq8nLWy8_f_X5CkCAfTwmKr8mwW4W4VuDCPiCqXQCrhsFxy6XFVbOBD8_Q/s640/Portal+of+Despair3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Inspiring Token</span><br />
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The Portal of Despair can Inspire a unit every turn. So, I made a token on a round base and blue out of a Reaper chibi scarecrow. If you ask me, kind of ended up looking like an evil Inspector Gadget.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyPI5GrVxZeUzRj0Nb-pUFn8Mm0TxPY5PtEYCj8aooDFQTT7G6E_2OrJCjpsi76ai-eGrc3th18toi-uweO9nmaJzXlM0YbSyESu0MutVJBzfZcJmeThVyKjG5AMfzdiLJGDf8mQ/s1600/Inspired+Token.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="993" data-original-width="876" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyPI5GrVxZeUzRj0Nb-pUFn8Mm0TxPY5PtEYCj8aooDFQTT7G6E_2OrJCjpsi76ai-eGrc3th18toi-uweO9nmaJzXlM0YbSyESu0MutVJBzfZcJmeThVyKjG5AMfzdiLJGDf8mQ/s640/Inspired+Token.png" width="564" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Reapers</span><br />
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Scything death creatures screaming out of the forest!<br />
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The structure AND the trees are 3D printed. Also notice the one up on the branches.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZQxNSOX9QLWosUPGwIHcXMUf6aXKjho_RXuidZNMVE9xqxt16zy8xthDn2GsAg4XOxf-2TB6hQFn6VVqCVPBgckeGbhCph-McgVBKY1V2vC-UgYkvmMJYmzDXjrTjuRIAjr8nA/s1600/Reapers.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="581" data-original-width="1500" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQZQxNSOX9QLWosUPGwIHcXMUf6aXKjho_RXuidZNMVE9xqxt16zy8xthDn2GsAg4XOxf-2TB6hQFn6VVqCVPBgckeGbhCph-McgVBKY1V2vC-UgYkvmMJYmzDXjrTjuRIAjr8nA/s640/Reapers.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Reaper Souldrinker</span><br />
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Having some fun with the quick-stabby-ness of Reapers, I have this guy dodging into a void tear in a stump and appearing / jumping back out of the tear from above his target.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivtaiIhP6rRfNxQ6HC5FbysjZkEnLAOMb1G-V1JSj5Cu5zjyySqDXEuMBpk7Z78FX9-WU7th0xU1MmiLzxUZGSL0ndpIwi0m1Yt3Iuhm7WnVsDIUTdgNmBXNcpBo94cyZvv-jww/s1600/Reaper+Souldrinker.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="603" data-original-width="522" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjivtaiIhP6rRfNxQ6HC5FbysjZkEnLAOMb1G-V1JSj5Cu5zjyySqDXEuMBpk7Z78FX9-WU7th0xU1MmiLzxUZGSL0ndpIwi0m1Yt3Iuhm7WnVsDIUTdgNmBXNcpBo94cyZvv-jww/s640/Reaper+Souldrinker.png" width="554" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Scarecrows</span></div>
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What great miniatures. At first I thought they didn't fit with the rest of the army, but man I like how they turned out. Also, notice the one holding his pumpkin head.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfKxWwHFrKyPYygsEfYBAjJJdera654pFH33NsMA77wHdCJoMoTdQ_rYIteJzkJL1kf2iC0iwUmpQdslA7Xn3NKMyGuBtZ8c4p7zOhhkSpAuMZ3qSRJLgPOsquwF0lmi-d9DGJw/s1600/Scarecrows.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="483" data-original-width="1309" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxfKxWwHFrKyPYygsEfYBAjJJdera654pFH33NsMA77wHdCJoMoTdQ_rYIteJzkJL1kf2iC0iwUmpQdslA7Xn3NKMyGuBtZ8c4p7zOhhkSpAuMZ3qSRJLgPOsquwF0lmi-d9DGJw/s640/Scarecrows.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Shadowhounds</span></div>
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Also attacking from the shore, I've used a frosted sheet of acrylic to create a place in the air along the back of the base that can support portals as if the hounds are jumping in from thin air.</div>
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Did a lot of cutting up of these to make them crawling and jumping out of their portals.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKMKvncrOvVXfNN9zhyT5eeukWEizALvhyphenhyphenXoHC_TMTj91MOTZPXQBX8YGtbU0y4E-70BmYPdQZVSLvzaQHZOwuDaqsZ5Xg4Z2X3FEbd0WqmHPFZoVpQ8jg-5ymxTdGfALNc646Q/s1600/Shadowhounds1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="481" data-original-width="715" height="430" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEKMKvncrOvVXfNN9zhyT5eeukWEizALvhyphenhyphenXoHC_TMTj91MOTZPXQBX8YGtbU0y4E-70BmYPdQZVSLvzaQHZOwuDaqsZ5Xg4Z2X3FEbd0WqmHPFZoVpQ8jg-5ymxTdGfALNc646Q/s640/Shadowhounds1.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioT7adF-pyVg1P1Lu-xV9OOnUtwsEjBtYLoKGlM0gjbyVbtG0LYA2CV__1YED8rSW0AKGTxSH6skWuHuyBFpi_0_YOC8Kjf36MUaGJGT1yV0G5CuBOs5_AUVpy5ttkWJLjT43VhQ/s1600/Shadowhounds2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="471" data-original-width="1359" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioT7adF-pyVg1P1Lu-xV9OOnUtwsEjBtYLoKGlM0gjbyVbtG0LYA2CV__1YED8rSW0AKGTxSH6skWuHuyBFpi_0_YOC8Kjf36MUaGJGT1yV0G5CuBOs5_AUVpy5ttkWJLjT43VhQ/s640/Shadowhounds2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffDZ2Q3kgtIaptykeeKD0WeX9XhyphenhyphenvF1EYu3rFsN0wHspBbs0jVYMJ9VOOcEUg_1O5Pm_91dquw7eZBXISMWGcBsEmMnxfWY9ATeEVP8JNz-2FHPrNK6_pu27WUDZWQ17Kni42Zw/s1600/Shadowhounds3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="754" data-original-width="863" height="558" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiffDZ2Q3kgtIaptykeeKD0WeX9XhyphenhyphenvF1EYu3rFsN0wHspBbs0jVYMJ9VOOcEUg_1O5Pm_91dquw7eZBXISMWGcBsEmMnxfWY9ATeEVP8JNz-2FHPrNK6_pu27WUDZWQ17Kni42Zw/s640/Shadowhounds3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Soulflayers</span><br />
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Riding forth, bursting from a stream and flying out of the void!<br />
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To make these mounted ladies, I took undead GW knights and used vampiress bodies with the knight weapons. I covered their horses in void, because I didn't want them to look like I'd just used undead models.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNxRbGb9Nh7PRsEDk0dtRzb3PA6pHFxcR4AP5vwDSzY2_t63hogFXBuql-LzjECzFVrfYhAGmTkG5lHbipYzKGWSXT3FKTWWBdVzVvDwxSxcsCqVUVl-SyYSv0HPQnkn4AJMzuw/s1600/Soulflayers.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="952" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbNxRbGb9Nh7PRsEDk0dtRzb3PA6pHFxcR4AP5vwDSzY2_t63hogFXBuql-LzjECzFVrfYhAGmTkG5lHbipYzKGWSXT3FKTWWBdVzVvDwxSxcsCqVUVl-SyYSv0HPQnkn4AJMzuw/s640/Soulflayers.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Spectres</span><br />
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This unit is trash, but I made at least one and I like their look. Too bad they're garbage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9fTbbcKemqYejyV9gnz-kEjXI69niy3_UkI1s2qqENT3UM1W0yCcVCpE77bTnrexV74rjbcMtL_t79APFpHjiEZNrCsdSv8OY_spCISPk4tDX973Kmz1Xp5Hqe-I1mnUKHGAtOg/s1600/Spectres.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="713" height="448" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9fTbbcKemqYejyV9gnz-kEjXI69niy3_UkI1s2qqENT3UM1W0yCcVCpE77bTnrexV74rjbcMtL_t79APFpHjiEZNrCsdSv8OY_spCISPk4tDX973Kmz1Xp5Hqe-I1mnUKHGAtOg/s640/Spectres.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Terror</span><br />
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Ripping through reality from a fountain that's being torn asunder as the void crashes through!<br />
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Such a great model! Detail kind of falls off on the tentacles though. I cut him in half, which was quite a chore, but pays off to be able to see him morphing from the center of the base. (Though I kind of wish I'd based him back a little further to reduce his tentacular overhang.) His drool was made from strands of fiber optics (From a dollar store toy.) glued into place and covered with heavy gel. (The clear fiber actually disappears within the gel, so it all pulls together nicely.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaNHMUeSgT7rOlAfvbbqI961iS3zYDvJwnj-BhxFa3mZ0_lxg-A89Yb0DHDDAXKjLKjNAK4k47Ya4INwJMHdgt0HOjRIlg2ygFkfBIV2LQkeJGsENOwgKGZXxeqtFsQmrRWxl1Vg/s1600/Terror1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="484" data-original-width="463" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaNHMUeSgT7rOlAfvbbqI961iS3zYDvJwnj-BhxFa3mZ0_lxg-A89Yb0DHDDAXKjLKjNAK4k47Ya4INwJMHdgt0HOjRIlg2ygFkfBIV2LQkeJGsENOwgKGZXxeqtFsQmrRWxl1Vg/s640/Terror1.png" width="612" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzAkpOLmMmkmHovMH3JQafbi5knkapCEJ4QJJb1mkyTR-QxiSVqNh7RVJMYiIH4ZcamCKFt18PP7C2aZdIYDuCx0GFSbqmj1JwVtjPDHRDLT3nj7wXD8stjtaoYVfXrfwFS3s5LA/s1600/Terror2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="485" data-original-width="985" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzAkpOLmMmkmHovMH3JQafbi5knkapCEJ4QJJb1mkyTR-QxiSVqNh7RVJMYiIH4ZcamCKFt18PP7C2aZdIYDuCx0GFSbqmj1JwVtjPDHRDLT3nj7wXD8stjtaoYVfXrfwFS3s5LA/s640/Terror2.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfMrRR-_MY2i2GX_Q2hXjT_3LvPnXxZWwXv_KaE0DSBmjLLBwSlMG1yTrNFEa-X-owKqmjemR5WCzuqKA_qYomTuaitLKOY-P7-hWlMuu1OErh8dHTfJmHO29c1fmlRy7-mmTKBg/s1600/Terror3.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="989" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfMrRR-_MY2i2GX_Q2hXjT_3LvPnXxZWwXv_KaE0DSBmjLLBwSlMG1yTrNFEa-X-owKqmjemR5WCzuqKA_qYomTuaitLKOY-P7-hWlMuu1OErh8dHTfJmHO29c1fmlRy7-mmTKBg/s640/Terror3.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-42585982239969836012020-02-05T10:00:00.000-05:002020-02-05T10:00:04.997-05:00Repairing Crooked X-Wing Pegs<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilAC2W5p-6gXK6D8butnGphy6TRV_O5T7LzCPsZQZzyOfr_e5O1sg4GlFXpecHGaAq9ifASoezFT3WEjCUvD2NtXvxekOBY1X_Mo-VefHCvy6zGWhR4OuqORjWDRF9DIqbyewaSQ/s1600/04+-+dimple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="305" data-original-width="229" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilAC2W5p-6gXK6D8butnGphy6TRV_O5T7LzCPsZQZzyOfr_e5O1sg4GlFXpecHGaAq9ifASoezFT3WEjCUvD2NtXvxekOBY1X_Mo-VefHCvy6zGWhR4OuqORjWDRF9DIqbyewaSQ/s200/04+-+dimple.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiah7LAjroUV-TTj16VyP6ukQIWmRH24eOqoZMCVG56KEY4ayQMAUSYOa7-qL_nwO3ZBIabkrDTKULvCGYebAwCg9WL01b8w4qBS6JweQ28GvqvdQUbWjZqrlwvqCSQOwMbfs1fdA/s1600/01+-+Crooked.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="308" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiah7LAjroUV-TTj16VyP6ukQIWmRH24eOqoZMCVG56KEY4ayQMAUSYOa7-qL_nwO3ZBIabkrDTKULvCGYebAwCg9WL01b8w4qBS6JweQ28GvqvdQUbWjZqrlwvqCSQOwMbfs1fdA/s320/01+-+Crooked.jpg" width="221" /></a>I've previously talked about how to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/07/fixing-broken-x-wing-peg-mounts.html">replace a broken peg</a></span> on your X-Wing ships.<br />
<br />
The process I've outlined below is much simpler but it's just for situations where you purchase a ship that's misaligned out of the box. I mean, I suppose you could exchange it, maybe... but this is so much simpler.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Gently Crack the Peg</span><br />
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The trickiest part of this process is breaking the glue holding the peg in place.<br />
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I used a small pair of side cutters and ever so very gently, squeezed until I heard a crack. Luckily it was the glue and not the peg itself!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYo97T7Vxj6My6BsmkVKY66mEqZiw3gwB6SaISORRPx1FRNZ6hHugdEw18aeQEQ0h8Z5SbY1QbDzFPHeOLjMbuJ2wA5m99rqXpU2uXc0qhaYM4sxhVfMbGiEqtsTwahEGFWx140Q/s1600/02+-+crack.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="345" data-original-width="342" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYo97T7Vxj6My6BsmkVKY66mEqZiw3gwB6SaISORRPx1FRNZ6hHugdEw18aeQEQ0h8Z5SbY1QbDzFPHeOLjMbuJ2wA5m99rqXpU2uXc0qhaYM4sxhVfMbGiEqtsTwahEGFWx140Q/s320/02+-+crack.jpg" width="317" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Align the Ship and Glue</span><br />
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Since the peg was intact, I could turn the ship to align it forward facing and added a drop of super thin glue.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJttaQDVRwfgq5hTAi364pAu54w7rNYAiRYDI18yzzJ0qgMgW2poqsNul3jGerAHEB9rN2S0wYObLo5T3Yz0EeeQITY6ddS3jF_UcHpaaB0SgjQh49-mtbq8LYXl5zr7SokhbpzA/s1600/03+-+align.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="462" data-original-width="297" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJttaQDVRwfgq5hTAi364pAu54w7rNYAiRYDI18yzzJ0qgMgW2poqsNul3jGerAHEB9rN2S0wYObLo5T3Yz0EeeQITY6ddS3jF_UcHpaaB0SgjQh49-mtbq8LYXl5zr7SokhbpzA/s320/03+-+align.jpg" width="205" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrade_qvd9tNyuGpcq4f58law9IXQ2hOr17aJgXWqCWraHNA-tKJ8owUqB271UPfSgJN0y07tEBb2_8eyaYqqtcZkqknEwyPRN6TT1acx60NHbCp81qm8qpll29rpreCV2AQvHsQ/s1600/04+-+glue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="266" data-original-width="172" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrade_qvd9tNyuGpcq4f58law9IXQ2hOr17aJgXWqCWraHNA-tKJ8owUqB271UPfSgJN0y07tEBb2_8eyaYqqtcZkqknEwyPRN6TT1acx60NHbCp81qm8qpll29rpreCV2AQvHsQ/s1600/04+-+glue.jpg" /></a></div>
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My only warning here is that super thin super glue likes to go evvvvvvvverywhere if you're not careful. Like willful water.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-43860332470718256402020-01-22T10:00:00.000-05:002020-01-22T12:52:47.193-05:00Clear Bases<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXnH0xFIqX68NkxWMvxabEX3bosikBrw-ClXRYs2XdTu4zXNn1soPn-yrGHFao91d6mCgNu1csZfk-pnFlEVZOXN_GWhQgP0JydGnFrsCzVzUSNJQc_PealJBxY1UKI7fJwW1Mg/s1600/03+-+Final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="1225" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXnH0xFIqX68NkxWMvxabEX3bosikBrw-ClXRYs2XdTu4zXNn1soPn-yrGHFao91d6mCgNu1csZfk-pnFlEVZOXN_GWhQgP0JydGnFrsCzVzUSNJQc_PealJBxY1UKI7fJwW1Mg/s640/03+-+Final.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxuK5hxuC4XkiPwDXb3f8T989CAdlvNy9rhlqS54xreSPX9rcLDEcXhhpbJlyS6gRgRxtYKvAacPdnyLXdx7w4Dq1aiuCzMRY8dfosuJ4NxVD7yLknylWYySyAFuKuKDBHaHQ0g/s1600/Gloomhaven+minis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="327" data-original-width="1186" height="176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuxuK5hxuC4XkiPwDXb3f8T989CAdlvNy9rhlqS54xreSPX9rcLDEcXhhpbJlyS6gRgRxtYKvAacPdnyLXdx7w4Dq1aiuCzMRY8dfosuJ4NxVD7yLknylWYySyAFuKuKDBHaHQ0g/s640/Gloomhaven+minis.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I wanted to showcase some miniatures for Gloomhaven that I painted as a commission. The goal was to replicate the character art and I'm pretty happy with how everything turned out.<br />
<br />
I'd like to also touch on clear bases. It's not something you see very often and if I'm honest, NOT something you SHOULD see very often. I suppose that's a weird way to start out a tutorial - "Look how cool this is, but don't do it." It's because clear bases impact recommendations I usually make when it comes to how you build your miniatures.<br />
<br />
For one, which I'll talk about more below, is that I usually recommend your miniature's feet interact with their base.<br />
<br />
The other is the composition of the figure. A miniature isn't just the mini, the base is part of it. I recommend either something the compliments the figure and makes a nice looking scene, something that contrasts the mini by making the miniature stand out in comparison, or something that's muted and simple like a photo backdrop which pushes the miniature to the foreground.<br />
<br />
The risk of a clear base is that you don't have control over what's below it. For wargaming, this is pretty random and could be any ugly tabletop. In tile-based games like Gloomhaven and all sorts of other stuff out these days, it can create a pretty cool aesthetic. In the final photo, it looks like the group is standing together in a stone-floored setting.<br />
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Removing Bases</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCeWo-WsDyrgYP-HZBhTh2OGirOsP1LJkJyn0tqBtQY4s7OT7sT7yJO30gmt0-1db3rRaauBXCsxHBZp_4NhmbhOk9wY_y2GhsnPMn4QaDYCAEGotGbbPoDcQXh7hEnU4WVbG2g/s1600/00+-+Base.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="361" data-original-width="667" height="108" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdCeWo-WsDyrgYP-HZBhTh2OGirOsP1LJkJyn0tqBtQY4s7OT7sT7yJO30gmt0-1db3rRaauBXCsxHBZp_4NhmbhOk9wY_y2GhsnPMn4QaDYCAEGotGbbPoDcQXh7hEnU4WVbG2g/s200/00+-+Base.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
The Gloomhaven miniatures came attached to their bases as part of the mold, so I had to carefully remove them from the feet. Thiiiiiis was interesting. Normally, I wouldn't worry too much about being exact with this kind of thing because I always <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/03/hordebloods-axer-base-and-final-photos.html">recommend that your miniature interact with it's base</a></span>, like having feet dig in to earth. For example, flock a base after gluing the feet on, so the grass sticks up around their feet.<br />
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But not only is that not an option if the base is clear, but the cut has to be PRECISE.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA3Ipt-AbxxTMvZ_3vL_1vJXMvgH0WOyzoQ8F0G_yjpRNMDK49S-ZsuqbjRVUiZQcsJw2wydG9sttlLBqoER4ROAKO1UNTl5AqAk_zgm8RXdnV0vCq4VR7WAiY4MOeWbWJp4b0DQ/s1600/01+-+cutting+from+base.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="402" data-original-width="574" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA3Ipt-AbxxTMvZ_3vL_1vJXMvgH0WOyzoQ8F0G_yjpRNMDK49S-ZsuqbjRVUiZQcsJw2wydG9sttlLBqoER4ROAKO1UNTl5AqAk_zgm8RXdnV0vCq4VR7WAiY4MOeWbWJp4b0DQ/s320/01+-+cutting+from+base.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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For these miniatures, I:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Start with larger <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/07/manual-cutting-tools.html">side cutters</a></span> to remove the bulk of the bases.</li>
<li>Then, I used a <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2011/10/finely-serrated-hand-saw.html">jewelers saw</a></span> to cut the smaller pieces from the feet.</li>
<li>Finally, I used a <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/11/hobby-knives.html">hobby knife</a></span> to clean up the precise bits.</li>
</ol>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Clear Bases</span><br />
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So yeah, here are the clear bases, basically just transparent plastic pucks.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4ddZR1ql2fITuC1-OrrYDPLHPyZhWeN5qcxuk_7zIow3Yg47LnSY8szgHU_NskWrWDeQYgw9YVhsWkdDxaUnvdeExrDd6T_LNl1xzsX9DgqWArZFwN6B8upz-PALMWk4WoS4JA/s1600/00+-+clear+bases.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="356" data-original-width="571" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga4ddZR1ql2fITuC1-OrrYDPLHPyZhWeN5qcxuk_7zIow3Yg47LnSY8szgHU_NskWrWDeQYgw9YVhsWkdDxaUnvdeExrDd6T_LNl1xzsX9DgqWArZFwN6B8upz-PALMWk4WoS4JA/s320/00+-+clear+bases.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You'll need to use super glue to glue the miniatures to the base. One downside is that super glue will sometimes frost clear plastic it's near, as you can see below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilEBUzYmRC4hpNm0885n_xJR7f9gq7r6EKEHO4As_OU7UipN4XlxcKgH3uSk07Y94OBsE-h-R1NyqlkxzSYk8gpujQJwx3hkx_Am0AyAB3PZXv4XN3GT3VbUv0At-oDl5NdlG6iw/s1600/02+-+glue+frosting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="335" data-original-width="823" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilEBUzYmRC4hpNm0885n_xJR7f9gq7r6EKEHO4As_OU7UipN4XlxcKgH3uSk07Y94OBsE-h-R1NyqlkxzSYk8gpujQJwx3hkx_Am0AyAB3PZXv4XN3GT3VbUv0At-oDl5NdlG6iw/s640/02+-+glue+frosting.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can clean this off using Q-Tips or paper towels and water or alcohol.<br />
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* Note, incase you try what I did. At first, I painted the underside of the mini with black gesso so that if you DID look at it from below, it wouldn't be bare plastic. THIS didn't glue so well. I had to scrape the gesso off and glue plastic to plastic.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Final Photo</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXnH0xFIqX68NkxWMvxabEX3bosikBrw-ClXRYs2XdTu4zXNn1soPn-yrGHFao91d6mCgNu1csZfk-pnFlEVZOXN_GWhQgP0JydGnFrsCzVzUSNJQc_PealJBxY1UKI7fJwW1Mg/s1600/03+-+Final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="1225" height="306" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTXnH0xFIqX68NkxWMvxabEX3bosikBrw-ClXRYs2XdTu4zXNn1soPn-yrGHFao91d6mCgNu1csZfk-pnFlEVZOXN_GWhQgP0JydGnFrsCzVzUSNJQc_PealJBxY1UKI7fJwW1Mg/s640/03+-+Final.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-11581412193609678962020-01-10T21:38:00.001-05:002020-01-10T21:43:45.760-05:00Borderlands Miniatures Charity Project<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40UDSRvnb86pE6_QLELrAetDt3kBiQJk2ecUe3SIhGpZFDOXMrWppKrX2sOeA-qv5WfJ2wVXTd1PYytlPYCSX_sAe_aipBdTgi1IgYZ84GTZ47_g3E18zxmTeL3ol0mbQtAr4SA/s640/banner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="150" data-original-width="640" height="149" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi40UDSRvnb86pE6_QLELrAetDt3kBiQJk2ecUe3SIhGpZFDOXMrWppKrX2sOeA-qv5WfJ2wVXTd1PYytlPYCSX_sAe_aipBdTgi1IgYZ84GTZ47_g3E18zxmTeL3ol0mbQtAr4SA/s640/banner.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Headshots from the Heart was a 24 hour charity marathon that some friends and I created and we ended up running it for 3 years total to benefit the <a href="https://www.childsplaycharity.org/">Child's Play Charity</a>. With the support of a great group of volunteers, the support of some fantastic businesses and generosity of many people, we raised over $11,000 across the 3 years.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB05WcpUD0EAN-w8tARrT7D9G1hTA1GCL-h1gTuwYvMU2_UVPnhYh-38yFZ95qH1xUg_3_GWx1xiBmdGn9WfV3bdjPgBtOTNTFwYgTkuAXewSoQ3BX3uM4BJMN6GhkabAUyriG2Q/s200/MiniWargamingBanner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="90" data-original-width="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhB05WcpUD0EAN-w8tARrT7D9G1hTA1GCL-h1gTuwYvMU2_UVPnhYh-38yFZ95qH1xUg_3_GWx1xiBmdGn9WfV3bdjPgBtOTNTFwYgTkuAXewSoQ3BX3uM4BJMN6GhkabAUyriG2Q/s200/MiniWargamingBanner.jpg" /></a></div>
As a donation on behalf of Wargaming Tradecraft, I painted 6 figures to auction off in the event. These miniatures and additional larger display bases were donated by <a href="http://www.miniwargaming.com/">MiniWarGaming</a>.<br />
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This page is acting as an index you can use to reach the individual articles.<br />
<br />
I painted them in the now popular cell-shaded / cartoon style of the Borderlands franchise and they're possibly the first gaming miniatures to be created in this style. (Spring of 2012) Man, looking over them to create this index, some are soooo rough. But boy do I still love how Young Marcus and Mordecai turned out! Definitely need to revisit this style!<br />
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Even Gearbox got involved, giving us game keys to give away and shout outs on social media. (Which crashed our server the first time thanks to the number of people it directed to us!)<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Final Photos</span><br />
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If you'd like to see all the final photos of the miniatures, from different angles, then <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-from-heart-borderlands.html">click here</a></span>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZkZTiuN1xJuxD552CZ8R-214geGX42U2eK9NCe2BuDp2Dow_TJRebPO3rMA8fMB1g-fORx8eSjeYlPsZASz_oQbrhf2uIBbGYdX3JIZ-zFnKIjLA6dceksfDuEhmPzq3-yWqww/s1600/HeadshotsCollage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="594" data-original-width="799" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHZkZTiuN1xJuxD552CZ8R-214geGX42U2eK9NCe2BuDp2Dow_TJRebPO3rMA8fMB1g-fORx8eSjeYlPsZASz_oQbrhf2uIBbGYdX3JIZ-zFnKIjLA6dceksfDuEhmPzq3-yWqww/s640/HeadshotsCollage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Tutorials</span><br />
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I think it's worth noting that these being early examples of the style and with an approach from Borderlands, surfaces aren't "flat". That is, they're not a single colour. Instead they're painted<br />
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I'm working on a tutorial on one of these minis, so be patient and follow Wargaming Tradecraft!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdsOo9ma3loNJ1b4-b7KF3U7E7ijMPqf0kNWREjlIegKxkxkhYAMdrYx_RcwsSYXZSzqc9wjaYR_XEoG9Rel7lud5LZoDO7wnyd2dAF3yuVmHUiS2QHdEeug835KR-nu4F2U6lQ/s1600/final+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1580" data-original-width="1600" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwdsOo9ma3loNJ1b4-b7KF3U7E7ijMPqf0kNWREjlIegKxkxkhYAMdrYx_RcwsSYXZSzqc9wjaYR_XEoG9Rel7lud5LZoDO7wnyd2dAF3yuVmHUiS2QHdEeug835KR-nu4F2U6lQ/s320/final+02.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Until then, you can read a tutorial I wrote when I painted <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2014/11/thagrosh-herald-of-crystalline-blight.html">Thagrosh</a></span> from Privateer Press in the cartoon style back in 2014.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Work in Progress Photos</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/04/headshots-assemblage.html">Prep</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Roland</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY8DBnIi4bVKr2k7lghwTZLStccJICy1OH6w2PC63vEljGXwgEBfFFq42hk3rBT340oSI7wuXQzBWHLNZFyq5aOqzy83bvGOSM145wzH0Npp9RE_xYzZnnXBLcg94s17joVxTkKQ/s1600/roland.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="75" data-original-width="283" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY8DBnIi4bVKr2k7lghwTZLStccJICy1OH6w2PC63vEljGXwgEBfFFq42hk3rBT340oSI7wuXQzBWHLNZFyq5aOqzy83bvGOSM145wzH0Npp9RE_xYzZnnXBLcg94s17joVxTkKQ/s1600/roland.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/04/headshots-roland-wip-1.html">Part 1</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/04/headshots-roland-wip-2.html">Part 2</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/04/headshots-roland-wip-3.html">Part 3</a></span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Lilith</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeDYY2WRh8gcVFX1Zlzj_36llp3-wcitH17HBfgjM4wvGIW-qmeME2Vq2-Q7Zn0W7VSCTM3C1zSx2vHVeon1Ehy1KWlUgozbvGu1iA8KT-ttZb7R1wxIGfWi-sAmWUxz3H63yMA/s1600/lilith.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="94" data-original-width="112" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPeDYY2WRh8gcVFX1Zlzj_36llp3-wcitH17HBfgjM4wvGIW-qmeME2Vq2-Q7Zn0W7VSCTM3C1zSx2vHVeon1Ehy1KWlUgozbvGu1iA8KT-ttZb7R1wxIGfWi-sAmWUxz3H63yMA/s1600/lilith.jpg" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/04/headshots-lilith-1.html">Part 1</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-lilith-wip-2.html">Part 2</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-lilith-wip-3.html">Part 3</a></span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Mordecai</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZf4iFysf_NGLjQZFFsMRYfZ4M0tDxGYZUYkIInHZ9k9HGEICwbHeKBhZM-I9b-ycxeOzrUvqGZHDhrURiUDBMoajc7mkukvRiSpWYVaZl6Dh-1_GWVPmur0KttTBEBWdLRdcm8Q/s1600/mordecai.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="82" data-original-width="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZf4iFysf_NGLjQZFFsMRYfZ4M0tDxGYZUYkIInHZ9k9HGEICwbHeKBhZM-I9b-ycxeOzrUvqGZHDhrURiUDBMoajc7mkukvRiSpWYVaZl6Dh-1_GWVPmur0KttTBEBWdLRdcm8Q/s1600/mordecai.jpg" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-mordecai-wip-1.html">Part 1</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-mordecai-wip-2.html">Part 2</a></span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Brick</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDc79CL9cZmfam6ltdr4SWbOrI26uDRZvmkZikZp-_LJD4wuAjZWlnOgo9_DZjpVOJ8fw_YtbD2bSMwsS75AvAXvWlW9q9JEskGzx6vBSmUV8qHoM8gm099wofk5jfJ32ktfmyCQ/s1600/brick.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="78" data-original-width="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDc79CL9cZmfam6ltdr4SWbOrI26uDRZvmkZikZp-_LJD4wuAjZWlnOgo9_DZjpVOJ8fw_YtbD2bSMwsS75AvAXvWlW9q9JEskGzx6vBSmUV8qHoM8gm099wofk5jfJ32ktfmyCQ/s1600/brick.jpg" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-brick-wip-1.html">Part 1</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-brick-wip-2.html">Part 2</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-brick-wip-3.html">Part 3</a></span></li>
</ul>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Young Marcus</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwW7bK8FwxkR2Rohe4j2FwMq4flM2hexGD3KLCrsNKtUKi9DvPXW-seCz1WGIDMf2jgziXe0azm3rB8VhVBT68An0O5ozSjpxT0AUKgtikotDdVoN7D1Ov9lwWpNATjmr-HtdjA/s1600/marcus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="59" data-original-width="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbwW7bK8FwxkR2Rohe4j2FwMq4flM2hexGD3KLCrsNKtUKi9DvPXW-seCz1WGIDMf2jgziXe0azm3rB8VhVBT68An0O5ozSjpxT0AUKgtikotDdVoN7D1Ov9lwWpNATjmr-HtdjA/s1600/marcus.jpg" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-marcus-wip-1.html">Part 1</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-marcus-wip-2.html">Part 2</a></span></li>
<li><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-marcus-wip-3.html">Part 3</a></span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Moxxi</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfwqKnr4TR4LW6VdgylIWYX55uGTKm5hmS8-W6Ahk3i-vbsu3zHTkHLXruMP_hI1QjTaRdfXxW0fOS7KbgydO4r-hanctEGrk1UCwKksTpd93XLAdgQGeN6EWylb3N7Z9DV5lwWg/s1600/moxxi.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="62" data-original-width="147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfwqKnr4TR4LW6VdgylIWYX55uGTKm5hmS8-W6Ahk3i-vbsu3zHTkHLXruMP_hI1QjTaRdfXxW0fOS7KbgydO4r-hanctEGrk1UCwKksTpd93XLAdgQGeN6EWylb3N7Z9DV5lwWg/s1600/moxxi.jpg" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-moxxi-wip.html">From Start to Finish</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;">Bases</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-bases.html">Showcasing the Bases</a></span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMc1l9dj19gI90Cv42lzY3fp7uE4b6vz83zg9ujhQ37iaVewRmaMB3h0TzjbdQH9Wky1ElkQkcmA7Mu_Nv04tt1coyKX1m3MoGtb7Klk-Y9ajviBGk3s-5qbQmxBwx9o1yBRg3dw/s1600/Bases.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="187" data-original-width="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMc1l9dj19gI90Cv42lzY3fp7uE4b6vz83zg9ujhQ37iaVewRmaMB3h0TzjbdQH9Wky1ElkQkcmA7Mu_Nv04tt1coyKX1m3MoGtb7Klk-Y9ajviBGk3s-5qbQmxBwx9o1yBRg3dw/s1600/Bases.jpg" /></a></div>
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<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-26517251807781403372020-01-03T11:33:00.000-05:002020-01-03T12:22:13.584-05:00The GSW Sword 'n' Steele Takedown<span style="font-size: x-large;">Green Stuff World<br />vs Vallejo<br />vs Sword 'n' Steele</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/WargamingTradecraft/posts/3155470371149009">I shared this on Facebook</a></span> and wanted to save these ramblings on my website as well, so here we are. </div>
<div>
(All relevant links will be posted at the end)<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Y6jqEMLwO9y9G6UQK4rCZ8zHvZPY-NPnIsRl5qtqwWQt6EdKIic7aeoIWpgWfiP0hQuAZt6SHoe71BcR17HANaXVA6KeKz9qgKPhojhLMFl5b9x3Mf3hs6_jbTcFMZwTBAodww/s1600/72+-+Medium+Coats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="236" data-original-width="397" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Y6jqEMLwO9y9G6UQK4rCZ8zHvZPY-NPnIsRl5qtqwWQt6EdKIic7aeoIWpgWfiP0hQuAZt6SHoe71BcR17HANaXVA6KeKz9qgKPhojhLMFl5b9x3Mf3hs6_jbTcFMZwTBAodww/s320/72+-+Medium+Coats.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Going to jump in here because as people are wondering what's up, there's a bunch of person view tainted misinformation circling. SO, rumour control, then my own thoughts on the whole situation:<br />
<br />
Basically:<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLDvPd2K25CZKTKKH9v-Xhaz5IrVeXtLbAvKoZGu0m-RN2ch1XBVSW9wgJdFyPhH0Z7a-EAI2_MiBDFarYpfVX-fhtwLsU2OvrsLZrXSPZHUFYlaWuAXfbQdYygziBvg1X81m-WA/s1600/font+comparison.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="153" data-original-width="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLDvPd2K25CZKTKKH9v-Xhaz5IrVeXtLbAvKoZGu0m-RN2ch1XBVSW9wgJdFyPhH0Z7a-EAI2_MiBDFarYpfVX-fhtwLsU2OvrsLZrXSPZHUFYlaWuAXfbQdYygziBvg1X81m-WA/s1600/font+comparison.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">OK, yeah, pretty close font usage.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<ol>
<li>Vallejo released a new line of colour shift paint.</li>
<li>Green Stuff World went after them because they claim ownership over both their brand, Chameleon, and the term "colorshift". (There was also a claim that some things had been copied, right down to font and packaging.)</li>
<li>GSW won and Vallejo was forced to rebrand and they've gone with the name Shifters.</li>
<li>People had already received the original product line and one such person, posted a review on her YouTube channel Sword 'n' Steele.</li>
<li>Instead of reaching out to her, GSW asked their legal team to order takedowns of anyone displaying the infringing products. And they did. Full YouTube copyright strike and the ensuing demonetization.</li>
<li>Sword 'n' Steele released a reaction video with shots of all her communication with GSW and a few other people are sharing images of their own communications with the GSW social media accounts.</li>
<li>GSW has removed the strike against the channel but warned if it was posted again and still displayed the infringing imagery or says/uses the word "colorshift" then it'd get striked again.</li>
<li>GSW and Vallejo have released statements and Sword 'n' Steele has rereleased her original video with a bunch of hilarious large [CENSORED] tags and audio of her saying "beep" instead of the brand "colorshift". (Or is she saying "colour shift" as a description? More on that later...)</li>
</ol>
</div>
<div>
<a name='more'></a><br /></div>
Now, I'm going to say I've used a lot of Green Stuff World products before and I like them. I've tried and reviewed their colour shift paints and the offering from Turbo Dork. Will this incident make me stop using / buying them? No. BUT, it will make me more likely to try a competitor's product.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnelrff8AW0np4CcIfWzkp7-EvlWUY7H-Kr3wptvxM7gC5KZ0uFSboL3mgWesM0CWm7aTJis3utR7QsES-UoaOiDrC_wKJbXNq3xaYOepJuMswtgdQvpKw2RwzDrCe4LDwtfaj2g/s1600/Censored.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="399" data-original-width="400" height="319" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnelrff8AW0np4CcIfWzkp7-EvlWUY7H-Kr3wptvxM7gC5KZ0uFSboL3mgWesM0CWm7aTJis3utR7QsES-UoaOiDrC_wKJbXNq3xaYOepJuMswtgdQvpKw2RwzDrCe4LDwtfaj2g/s320/Censored.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I'd hate to piss off some other brand of product I'm completely<br />
unaware of who have their own line of foliage...<br />
Don't my Nightstalkers look coooool?</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Do I think this was an extreme reaction from GSW? Absolutely. At no point should 3rd parties be dragged into battles like this. GSW should have ensured Vallejo contacted customers to prevent situations like what happened and reacted out themselves to try and correct this issue. Sword 'n' Steele was simply reviewing a product they legally bought and it's not her fault there was a problem with that product.<br />
<br />
GSW has tried to play the underdog in this situation, which is difficult when you're striking the community instead of your competitor. They also claimed they thought YouTube (the platform FAMOUS for wrecking channels over nothing) would give Sword 'n' Steele a warning. Personally, I find situations / reactions often reveal a business' internal culture and was rather disappointed by ALL of this and hope they learn and grow from this. I do like the GSW brand and actually ordered a bunch of their product before starting my current Nightstalker project and was planning on buying more for an upcoming project I have when I wrap these. (I dunno, any other brands out there offer great winter effects that could use some spotlight time as my site kicks off again? Yes world, Wargaming Tradecraft is ramping up again...)<br />
<br />
When I emailed them, their response suggests they're learning from all this, but I'm not going to quote from the email since they use a scary footer warning about disclosing the contents. 🙄 (Irony being they miss a positive plug because I'm protecting myself from their legalese)<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmAfPtOFJFys4c_T26Bp8uywZTF7jRm8JKExQUGzNIC8o1-EvValduSTH-rWD5kX6iyLB-pmoYYfEPiswZGxuvqNyYcAZL-lJolnmLtsxcwsDy3eiaGe8l77RmMvl8R4wuHf4-w/s1600/cars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="586" data-original-width="721" height="162" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFmAfPtOFJFys4c_T26Bp8uywZTF7jRm8JKExQUGzNIC8o1-EvValduSTH-rWD5kX6iyLB-pmoYYfEPiswZGxuvqNyYcAZL-lJolnmLtsxcwsDy3eiaGe8l77RmMvl8R4wuHf4-w/s200/cars.jpg" width="200" /></a>My largest issue with this is something that goes beyond a single channel and affects the community and language as a whole. Green Stuff World claims ownership over the term "colorshift". That would be like Microsoft removing the space between the worlds "operatingsystem" and sending their legal department after Apple and Google for using "operating system" to describe what runs Macs, iOS, Chromebooks and Androids. See what I'm getting at? Give GSW "Chameleon" as that's their brand afterall... but not colour shift. I'm not going to stop describing all colour shift paints as colour shift paints because this is a term that's been widely used for decades, in the likes of fancy sports cars, airbrushing and even craft paints... WELL before miniature artists were using them.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOC7_y-d9SIBZgk1K2e9AXjM5SmPAfBIDR12mpvPrN1ZwKo_ZQ3fu97Jp7DqGwpHTo2F0rPTheyduQanQ_lMNk2n_igRfOQIzH2Lkd0_xNJv0kX2vWvgQlQt4tBnQHidWIGqwMA/s1600/folk+art.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="523" data-original-width="274" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaOC7_y-d9SIBZgk1K2e9AXjM5SmPAfBIDR12mpvPrN1ZwKo_ZQ3fu97Jp7DqGwpHTo2F0rPTheyduQanQ_lMNk2n_igRfOQIzH2Lkd0_xNJv0kX2vWvgQlQt4tBnQHidWIGqwMA/s200/folk+art.PNG" width="104" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">uh-ohhh...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Side note: In the past I've seen cases where businesses lose trademarks for non enforcement. For example, When TONS of companies named themselves winBlank or winWhatever, Microsoft only sued winZip when they started making money and winZip not only defended themselves but caused MS to lose the term "win." (This may be why so many non Apple products are iBlank or iWhatever.)<br />
<br />
<br />
Anyways, yeah, it'd be like claiming ownership of the term "metallic" paint. You won't find me changing how I refer to Createx Colors colour shift paints, Folk Art's color shift colour shift paints, Rust-oleum's colorshift colour shift paints, Testors color shift colour shift paints, Green Stuff World's Chameleon colour shift paints, Turbo Dork's Turboshift colour shift paints, Vallejo's Shifters colour shift paints, etc.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaTmKdtAlV1KsFPm22KiTdCPraEQL1fVq38rEzb5n0f5NjlPZCuGHsf5UactrTNlztmAckqc6BWLh3GuOjNHcyBI0PKmjVg1n54wH9cGtF_e8IH59_zUmiqFV6Z2FLTBVRgW2k1w/s1600/other+brands.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="230" data-original-width="355" height="204" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhaTmKdtAlV1KsFPm22KiTdCPraEQL1fVq38rEzb5n0f5NjlPZCuGHsf5UactrTNlztmAckqc6BWLh3GuOjNHcyBI0PKmjVg1n54wH9cGtF_e8IH59_zUmiqFV6Z2FLTBVRgW2k1w/s320/other+brands.PNG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What is this madness?? Why are all these large companies infringing on Green Stuff World's trademarks?!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Honestly, I think it'd go a long way if Green Stuff World voluntarily relinquished their claim on the term "colorshift."<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX1oAO8a4RzbWx7mI8U-QZaP5exthuGSa4MzRKYj2nnxn4GXPl0HLoX9uV7fWzGybAIx1PO3a0hrzbxLkny9cdcDJCzOjHtK5Ixji-IzAk8jrp3kZScXh7QxaLP2z24n0R-mcdTw/s1600/other+brands+font.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="109" data-original-width="633" height="68" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX1oAO8a4RzbWx7mI8U-QZaP5exthuGSa4MzRKYj2nnxn4GXPl0HLoX9uV7fWzGybAIx1PO3a0hrzbxLkny9cdcDJCzOjHtK5Ixji-IzAk8jrp3kZScXh7QxaLP2z24n0R-mcdTw/s400/other+brands+font.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh snap! What was that about Vallejo using GSW's font???</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That's why I don't like when companies throw their weight around. Since I've reviewed some of these products, I don't want them taking down my videos or reaching out to Google on the Blogger platform because I use the widely used term "colour shift" I don't feel they should have any claim to in order to describe this type of paint, not a brand. I don't like to have to worry that my own content may be at risk, especially because a brand I actually like is getting ham fisted and overly eager to exercise control over words. (Though they've assured me my videos are in no danger.)<br />
<br />
Especially when the company in question apparently lives in a glass house... Gotta say, it's interesting the stuff people are pointing out on the statement from GSW like the photo of marketing below. (Unless, do you suppose this is a licensed partnership with Dragon Ball Z to promote their product?) Meanwhile, Vallejo is obviously loving this after everything they were put through, based on the subtle shade they're throwing GSW's way in their own statement.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrGHHtsH71HB9nSpT1l0jN9UaGDlYQXezXmON1B0JifxBDFvq1BRFqJy-M9GluOHYYAqW5y7so52ArW3WjAeRgzx6dPtZf3VMsE6tyAN4Bo8BI6omu4tGiSg4Kc5p8v5XjMFWREA/s1600/81977863_10218254655630966_7860001820553248768_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="687" data-original-width="589" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrGHHtsH71HB9nSpT1l0jN9UaGDlYQXezXmON1B0JifxBDFvq1BRFqJy-M9GluOHYYAqW5y7so52ArW3WjAeRgzx6dPtZf3VMsE6tyAN4Bo8BI6omu4tGiSg4Kc5p8v5XjMFWREA/s400/81977863_10218254655630966_7860001820553248768_n.jpg" width="342" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">oops.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Do you need to boycott Green Stuff World like some are calling for? I think that would be extreme. They do make quality products and appear to be attempting to handle this appropriately and learn from their mistakes. I'm still planning on buying from them... BUT, I place quite a bit of value on how a company treats people. Both their own staff and the community. And all of this just feels wrong...<br />
<br />
I welcome your thoughts below.....<br />
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sword 'n' Steele's Reaction Video:</span><br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz79dwh_CQw">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qz79dwh_CQw</a><br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Sword 'n' Steele's Review of Vallejo [CENSORED] colour shift paints:</span><br />
<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GbXowGrXC4">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8GbXowGrXC4</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Green Stuff World's statement:</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEsj6FCrtrfSRwZZvKU8dCdY06IlVI9Y40UJSxF0DR75YndAHj_KbyHbtVX4bD7gumVClAbn8tnIiOo3ckP2a3hb2nFmm9Ymhe4IAT6qBDSwKmMWn_BNJOYLM6JBozS_F-P_exvg/s1600/statement+-+GSW.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="858" data-original-width="558" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiEsj6FCrtrfSRwZZvKU8dCdY06IlVI9Y40UJSxF0DR75YndAHj_KbyHbtVX4bD7gumVClAbn8tnIiOo3ckP2a3hb2nFmm9Ymhe4IAT6qBDSwKmMWn_BNJOYLM6JBozS_F-P_exvg/s200/statement+-+GSW.jpg" width="130" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/greenstuffworld/photos/a.476002369120114/2703765693010426/">https://www.facebook.com/greenstuffworld/photos/a.476002369120114/2703765693010426/</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Vallejo's statement:</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpUZBvpU6VjpFJrIDUqjmqJB5ovu_A4SjSCpPh3bByCH1BNjz4mxqs7REIsK1RdJuMe8inpZEcYMu1PmXT2cm0JyBNRFv2u-Yf5DpC6jcS7Fvf1wqI2uZPAJYX25QDil1N8fzBog/s1600/statement+-+vallejo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="678" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpUZBvpU6VjpFJrIDUqjmqJB5ovu_A4SjSCpPh3bByCH1BNjz4mxqs7REIsK1RdJuMe8inpZEcYMu1PmXT2cm0JyBNRFv2u-Yf5DpC6jcS7Fvf1wqI2uZPAJYX25QDil1N8fzBog/s200/statement+-+vallejo.jpg" width="141" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://www.facebook.com/vallejocolors/photos/pcb.3155604271135280/3155602787802095/">https://www.facebook.com/vallejocolors/photos/pcb.3155604271135280/3155602787802095/</a><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">My review of GSW and Turbo Dork colour shift paints:</span><br />
<a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/10/using-colour-shift-paints.html">https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/10/using-colour-shift-paints.html</a>
<div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-66879711032900279882019-09-25T10:00:00.000-04:002019-12-23T15:17:59.798-05:00Multitone Black and White<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1yF0LdVQD0Q3dO4oH5ehS0I7yERT_w6hyphenhyphenMjfUyMhUmK9Nd2ZTZK30ikGrs_mW23tQOXfGaNCK4oIUUswEh4s9eJdEOggMiZUq-fD6FPs9neUO91pgObQ3ODs5y12s9eRqk2MYg/s1600/greyscale.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="847" data-original-width="287" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-1yF0LdVQD0Q3dO4oH5ehS0I7yERT_w6hyphenhyphenMjfUyMhUmK9Nd2ZTZK30ikGrs_mW23tQOXfGaNCK4oIUUswEh4s9eJdEOggMiZUq-fD6FPs9neUO91pgObQ3ODs5y12s9eRqk2MYg/s320/greyscale.jpg" width="107" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO2p78K_cZGhmVpYw6FF-lqHt7YwDrUL3DU4Lv-QbDOYDLI3hWLjHT2ys7FuCAL0GabMtnaPGiSJNVVIELZ6UFuHssBIv9nRrJoz8haUdRBLM5Hx81gG1YGTr_6KDFxfNI_Ew7w/s1600/LKLOO522DFFERJRB7LIMPSFWBI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="600" height="137" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO2p78K_cZGhmVpYw6FF-lqHt7YwDrUL3DU4Lv-QbDOYDLI3hWLjHT2ys7FuCAL0GabMtnaPGiSJNVVIELZ6UFuHssBIv9nRrJoz8haUdRBLM5Hx81gG1YGTr_6KDFxfNI_Ew7w/s200/LKLOO522DFFERJRB7LIMPSFWBI.jpg" width="200" /></a>I've been seeing some people posting lately about their own attempts at a greyscale army, which has of course led to seeing lots of people trying and posting about it. The issue I'm seeing in most of these tries is that <b>at worst it looks like the miniatures have been primed black and lightly frosted with white primer</b> (stippling and all) to call it done after basically a zenithal highlight, while <b>at best they're created with beautiful blending but appear like a white version of grimdark </b>where all the details fade away to the viewer since everything has been painted the same.<br />
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I've actually talked about this before, using different examples, during my time writing about <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2015/01/colour-theory-index.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Colour Theory</span></a>, specifically for a post about <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2015/04/colour-theory-pure-achromatic-greyscale.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Pure Achromatic</span></a> painting. I've had more opportunities since then to explore the technique and want to write a follow up post.<br />
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Don't forget about <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2015/05/colour-theory-contrasting-achromatic.html">Contrasting Achromatic</a></span>, where I've thrown in a little colour. (Sometimes referred to as the "Sin City" technique.)<br />
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<b>Most of the examples you can see pictured here are from that series, but keep reading and we'll look at examples from classic cinema and of my newer approaches to the styles.</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-NFC8nFLgnP7p4jdjDNZt4iQPjQStP0gAlp-fX0d7Mi35AMweLHoBrjcO38OACMSxOyM-obj69S5qYa9zPM9GGTmYrjpyJl8YevrZUXy0YzEGbUTHApbMo8TebYUj5XpM4RTcg/s1600/Chef+Rogue.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="455" data-original-width="757" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK-NFC8nFLgnP7p4jdjDNZt4iQPjQStP0gAlp-fX0d7Mi35AMweLHoBrjcO38OACMSxOyM-obj69S5qYa9zPM9GGTmYrjpyJl8YevrZUXy0YzEGbUTHApbMo8TebYUj5XpM4RTcg/s640/Chef+Rogue.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5mqcDUEIkLNT9XnyTtBsL2Qxb-IdeD4cIOJjYPt73Qg5gUV9sBehWArzPAruUlNaNobfZBbB0xiW1DXquRdmkegKtzAZpdG9d1Oa7AMgL6qsT58iBEUc2Z3EXTcUPOAVZ04jHjw/s1600/colour+theory+-+b+and+w.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="788" height="342" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5mqcDUEIkLNT9XnyTtBsL2Qxb-IdeD4cIOJjYPt73Qg5gUV9sBehWArzPAruUlNaNobfZBbB0xiW1DXquRdmkegKtzAZpdG9d1Oa7AMgL6qsT58iBEUc2Z3EXTcUPOAVZ04jHjw/s640/colour+theory+-+b+and+w.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painted Marine Example</span><br />
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Using the <a href="http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/smp.php">Space Marine Painter</a> from Bolter and Chainsword...<br />
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Imagine if you'd painted the below marine... Yeah, the blending is nice and detail crisp, but overall it's boring. There's nothing that makes anything else stand out so it all blends together. <b>I feel like this is mostly what I'm seeing these days in the miniatures that are being posted.</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJIOa8DK7Vpc4sVHa5mnq2zgHnhelxmYm5Se15rrcLVq3FYbXZmGjB6ofdbhZ8p0Qv2jQiI_xiIraWt1lp86E2ztHb-oIaQNOiXbmLHOYY8iCYK3GH5JFUSx83m5o6rk-en2k4A/s1600/Marine.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="421" data-original-width="300" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibJIOa8DK7Vpc4sVHa5mnq2zgHnhelxmYm5Se15rrcLVq3FYbXZmGjB6ofdbhZ8p0Qv2jQiI_xiIraWt1lp86E2ztHb-oIaQNOiXbmLHOYY8iCYK3GH5JFUSx83m5o6rk-en2k4A/s200/Marine.PNG" width="142" /></a></div>
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Look at the two below instead. The first one has sharper contrasts, the second staying more within greyscale, but they're both so much more interesting.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGagGOncg7ttt7_zo2Uys65hXkUsCpOHrT7WP9xgRu_ijAhce-kTvzloUJYiG6m6kpO3we-vpq0yxXpSzZ0ZiLhst-6QOUYruvRPSfmZblOo7DXFtUNWmsemgwlWTCYO0bO3brQ/s1600/marine2.fw.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="423" data-original-width="576" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDGagGOncg7ttt7_zo2Uys65hXkUsCpOHrT7WP9xgRu_ijAhce-kTvzloUJYiG6m6kpO3we-vpq0yxXpSzZ0ZiLhst-6QOUYruvRPSfmZblOo7DXFtUNWmsemgwlWTCYO0bO3brQ/s320/marine2.fw.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Examples from the Classics</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmd3u-mCVEp4xfQBzFnrN4ewnr7gqRj6gyamz_TEzh8ryUxhD7yTBmxaj3sZvJoGVuseSgtl9gdVjOBFBYewUyKB5W3lb1i6DhO20h1GlflfBTNMETJlhSEZPmf4jNDSn8kPAiKQ/s1600/vlcsnap-2019-09-25-08h36m31s004.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="384" data-original-width="512" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmd3u-mCVEp4xfQBzFnrN4ewnr7gqRj6gyamz_TEzh8ryUxhD7yTBmxaj3sZvJoGVuseSgtl9gdVjOBFBYewUyKB5W3lb1i6DhO20h1GlflfBTNMETJlhSEZPmf4jNDSn8kPAiKQ/s320/vlcsnap-2019-09-25-08h36m31s004.png" width="320" /></a>Don't take my word for it though, start by looking at the black and white movies of the past. (I write this while watching the 1934 version of Treasure Island from Victor Fleming.) In a black and white movie, there are no colours, but good directors used contrasts between black, white and various shades of grey to ensure that actors, wardrobes and props stood out.<br />
<br />
Look at this photo from the movie. Jim's outfit is pretty straight forward - black pants and vest with a white shirt. But look at the salty dog there. Black coat and hat, grey shirt, white cuffs, grey pants that aren't the same shade as the shirt. The spyglass he carries also has two different greyscale which also stands out from his outfit. Both these actors stand out from the background too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidu15ZbQko1WoGcTNCyO_hWng1pfUpgAZM9YwUJMwILqmNc2fgN2jMqTj4RI3e8eThKBpn2zW7YJi2hxbBa7Nz0DZE7F4jOgmeulxZvghDzblnd_9HURBQEn9xOXI1IUuv0CjyZA/s1600/Creature-from-the-Black-Lagoon-04-09-15-970x545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="970" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidu15ZbQko1WoGcTNCyO_hWng1pfUpgAZM9YwUJMwILqmNc2fgN2jMqTj4RI3e8eThKBpn2zW7YJi2hxbBa7Nz0DZE7F4jOgmeulxZvghDzblnd_9HURBQEn9xOXI1IUuv0CjyZA/s200/Creature-from-the-Black-Lagoon-04-09-15-970x545.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWAWUAKbuOKeGRDjU-Xca3kOTBtEuQufd__Y1g7WTekbyR_CxzI92-h1Vp9QL3rnvlEcbhkjOa3QPVtC5LuzOimm2At6l7LlBSdcX-Ds4PyUPEbg3VsdTgYYA02Kbp5dKbLfSx3A/s1600/Creature-from-the-Black-Lagoon-04-09-15-970x545+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="545" data-original-width="970" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWAWUAKbuOKeGRDjU-Xca3kOTBtEuQufd__Y1g7WTekbyR_CxzI92-h1Vp9QL3rnvlEcbhkjOa3QPVtC5LuzOimm2At6l7LlBSdcX-Ds4PyUPEbg3VsdTgYYA02Kbp5dKbLfSx3A/s200/Creature-from-the-Black-Lagoon-04-09-15-970x545+2.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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How about the creature from the Black Lagoon? I've brightened one of the versions above by turning a lot of the grey into white. Isn't it boring? This is what I feel like most artists are doing when they try their hand at greyscale by ignoring contrasts. In the original (darker) version of the creature above there are multiple ranges of grey: scales are darkest, claws are white, his chest scutes are lighter, as are the scaly bits around his neck.<br />
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<b>Not everything is "painted" with the same dark/lightness of grey and a lot of the highlights are done with grey, not white.</b><br />
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A couple more examples to look at, from Wizard of Oz and Metropolis, below:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO2p78K_cZGhmVpYw6FF-lqHt7YwDrUL3DU4Lv-QbDOYDLI3hWLjHT2ys7FuCAL0GabMtnaPGiSJNVVIELZ6UFuHssBIv9nRrJoz8haUdRBLM5Hx81gG1YGTr_6KDFxfNI_Ew7w/s1600/LKLOO522DFFERJRB7LIMPSFWBI.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="600" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYO2p78K_cZGhmVpYw6FF-lqHt7YwDrUL3DU4Lv-QbDOYDLI3hWLjHT2ys7FuCAL0GabMtnaPGiSJNVVIELZ6UFuHssBIv9nRrJoz8haUdRBLM5Hx81gG1YGTr_6KDFxfNI_Ew7w/s400/LKLOO522DFFERJRB7LIMPSFWBI.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCFbk-LhBFe7yMskW-GwCaFkCCaWsFP4QlQs6rpibj6x3B9539js4rx65sCF3i5siiEdaDKz31qFd7BdjzhRtlnTW3JH6ocPBggv9jXUeodEmeMtw9-Lf9u7paHULR_ITC-DGLw/s1600/metropolis_1_652_426_81_s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="426" data-original-width="652" height="261" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMCFbk-LhBFe7yMskW-GwCaFkCCaWsFP4QlQs6rpibj6x3B9539js4rx65sCF3i5siiEdaDKz31qFd7BdjzhRtlnTW3JH6ocPBggv9jXUeodEmeMtw9-Lf9u7paHULR_ITC-DGLw/s400/metropolis_1_652_426_81_s.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I think I've covered a bunch of the theory, so you have a decent idea of what I'm looking at in those photos. Not just on an individual basis, but costumes are designed to stand out from one another. Black and dark greys are just as important as white, but pay close attention to just how much highlighting is done with grey so that the darker clothes don't have crazy bright highlights.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Count Vlagorescu's Midnight Court</span><br />
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You can look at the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/08/count-vlagorescus-midnight-court.html">project page</a></span> to see links to various aspects of this army, but I'm going to look at how I painted them below.<br />
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I started out with some sharp contrasts between dark bodies and bright details.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGhGRB0hyphenhyphensVO8ALTG4g-6MVRp6KVTqMvEaz6Bep8yUCberrPsCRt-vNJr_POlm0fXfcG14V5Uxhx3E-qv448iG8qMzigHDRRU8WUKQ5UBKIjNTZI9yoP5qDRP7dUnZoJeiKxIVw/s1600/01+-+dark+contrast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="374" data-original-width="925" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGhGRB0hyphenhyphensVO8ALTG4g-6MVRp6KVTqMvEaz6Bep8yUCberrPsCRt-vNJr_POlm0fXfcG14V5Uxhx3E-qv448iG8qMzigHDRRU8WUKQ5UBKIjNTZI9yoP5qDRP7dUnZoJeiKxIVw/s640/01+-+dark+contrast.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I've also painted things like the wings and fur in more of a middle greyscale and toned everything back down with a black wash.<br />
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I feel like it would be difficult for even me to reproduce. A lot of the highlighting on the black skin was done by brushing white and grey pigment on, then ... I think allowing it to melt and blend during the varnish step.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimL-9GCNUjma8u214l-m2ECKkHS6LC_IkOj9-qK27B6p1UXVcRwGxv2WiHVsi-mM-LrwFbWHd-8IFpGxgAIkbR3tK3cE3qxZmHlOy3UnRafmrYeZDkaVn17YnmbbMl4S4747847g/s1600/02+-+some+differences.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="537" data-original-width="497" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimL-9GCNUjma8u214l-m2ECKkHS6LC_IkOj9-qK27B6p1UXVcRwGxv2WiHVsi-mM-LrwFbWHd-8IFpGxgAIkbR3tK3cE3qxZmHlOy3UnRafmrYeZDkaVn17YnmbbMl4S4747847g/s320/02+-+some+differences.jpg" width="296" /></a></div>
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To finish them up, I kept the skin black, brought claws, bone and weapons up to white and left wings and fur in the middle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHSJG5oYEuwEsPJIpEcUT0f59rBC0cA2ALLzrmkgsGLIqWSmL4W88HxmallM9r-l3cCKiVEqAp_obI-_BTATdYk2PdYl18O9Ybpx_vfLxHF0rKPpx2EVqVx9az9ZBK8WFZMVTxGg/s1600/04+-+multitone+highlights.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="544" data-original-width="484" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHSJG5oYEuwEsPJIpEcUT0f59rBC0cA2ALLzrmkgsGLIqWSmL4W88HxmallM9r-l3cCKiVEqAp_obI-_BTATdYk2PdYl18O9Ybpx_vfLxHF0rKPpx2EVqVx9az9ZBK8WFZMVTxGg/s320/04+-+multitone+highlights.jpg" width="284" /></a></div>
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I did the same on the Terrorgheist, you can see some of the work in progress photos below:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthOuZ8Lhgp7W2OsSwihyphenhyphenUlc9VP3nXsq59S2Zlx-BBXlrPsXIOTAPgBWxPY2QjEjbj4SolGPF0wkbJKYTamZ2ZDrSsfSTFcmq7EsVNN9aiUMev2_xuPFTUklE0kPwJ2poxc23fhg/s1600/03+-+washed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="560" data-original-width="580" height="192" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhthOuZ8Lhgp7W2OsSwihyphenhyphenUlc9VP3nXsq59S2Zlx-BBXlrPsXIOTAPgBWxPY2QjEjbj4SolGPF0wkbJKYTamZ2ZDrSsfSTFcmq7EsVNN9aiUMev2_xuPFTUklE0kPwJ2poxc23fhg/s200/03+-+washed.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizHvZvlUqvHseYC60xozUcPTgNiDX-VjsGQeLZOoDK-lgvQvHiBMn1LHLwj7fQ2wVPH7nBhuck8UAl6_pUZ_G-nHx0dQ7qN4SCeKQsaS_HVzRoeIfgVJjUM5f46xspvQ346KOHYQ/s1600/05+-+contrast+in+progress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="641" data-original-width="757" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizHvZvlUqvHseYC60xozUcPTgNiDX-VjsGQeLZOoDK-lgvQvHiBMn1LHLwj7fQ2wVPH7nBhuck8UAl6_pUZ_G-nHx0dQ7qN4SCeKQsaS_HVzRoeIfgVJjUM5f46xspvQ346KOHYQ/s200/05+-+contrast+in+progress.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
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Something to pay attention to, even on this creature, is that the leathery skin is actually more of a dark grey, while the muscles are black, the wings are a lighter dark grey and the bones / claws go straight to white.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCi5w6n11oYbWBZjsp0rpKzvEGmzk05OSA2XRtF4nX2Wqa7bV1VE6_toPyWrLLQlFYp0RYbnKhAvCxdecuQ5F8Jm5RskIMGriFuWcrjswFtBqqlKHRAAsIJeJdlFwbrg4bck_Bw/s1600/06+-+contrasts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="502" data-original-width="756" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXCi5w6n11oYbWBZjsp0rpKzvEGmzk05OSA2XRtF4nX2Wqa7bV1VE6_toPyWrLLQlFYp0RYbnKhAvCxdecuQ5F8Jm5RskIMGriFuWcrjswFtBqqlKHRAAsIJeJdlFwbrg4bck_Bw/s640/06+-+contrasts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvmVQYnnUo2HGIcoxFkBz2d6pxySDvxGIlnEheu7hCTnUXUnFE4JL1LNr8YXS3bK4RiE3gVSOQ_chEhTq105wTfElEZjfppTmJYLRVW_ohTn8v6cwEMCai_w8oZ4OspL18TdV6g/s1600/07+-+contrasts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="519" data-original-width="450" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRvmVQYnnUo2HGIcoxFkBz2d6pxySDvxGIlnEheu7hCTnUXUnFE4JL1LNr8YXS3bK4RiE3gVSOQ_chEhTq105wTfElEZjfppTmJYLRVW_ohTn8v6cwEMCai_w8oZ4OspL18TdV6g/s320/07+-+contrasts.jpg" width="277" /></a></div>
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After I've highlighted him, the muscles have a shinier black appearance, the skin has some mid-dark grey highlighting, the wings a lighter grey highlight and bones really stand out.<br />
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If I'd do one thing different on this army, I would probably do something different with the bases... either a different grey tone, or actually base them in colour.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnk0Jp5O3TUBA_26kAL5Sa_h2Yea1fNFoXqG9jSAZ_bEUyQYxTqgXXaAbBe-jw-es2AG1mn7bHKA_PmkVBBAwgbLaYU13WQ8c_xk_-I0dNzTgPqhL-B7PgTlmO54my_KrATrd7_Q/s1600/08+-+finished.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="491" data-original-width="613" height="512" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnk0Jp5O3TUBA_26kAL5Sa_h2Yea1fNFoXqG9jSAZ_bEUyQYxTqgXXaAbBe-jw-es2AG1mn7bHKA_PmkVBBAwgbLaYU13WQ8c_xk_-I0dNzTgPqhL-B7PgTlmO54my_KrATrd7_Q/s640/08+-+finished.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here's another creature that I think is a great example of using different shades between black and white to make all the details of the miniature stand out. You can also see a pop of colour contrast where I've <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/11/painting-glowing-eyes.html">highlighted the eyes</a></span> in a glowing purple.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikbov-fxMHz2KncrA0XCao9O55iRVo8-9HK9mikMKDPHlrVsjvQFgAW_gcXILS_TK8x75YrBTVie6E9nJS7-4xawxw6qWcL0ZbOm62CnfC82Fqx8uobz5stIR2hPn7K92zF6kUQ/s1600/09+-+another+example.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="371" data-original-width="467" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikbov-fxMHz2KncrA0XCao9O55iRVo8-9HK9mikMKDPHlrVsjvQFgAW_gcXILS_TK8x75YrBTVie6E9nJS7-4xawxw6qWcL0ZbOm62CnfC82Fqx8uobz5stIR2hPn7K92zF6kUQ/s1600/09+-+another+example.jpg" /></a></div>
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And just another comparison of how things look as I've highlighted the final piece, some areas to complete white, others to grey, others to white but only on the tips of fur - play with those shades!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8KhASLYbLsrswWtf89OKZo_tkf0WtNpAvbgJ8DnA0u-nbU64Tw8io_Z8RgAg9Be5NMl2rh_pFaskQszjzP1kqVNdOJ8OUWM4ugNKPIS6f54WI7T6SCuJSNaKrb-08YeIdIYBoEQ/s1600/10+-+varghulf+example.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="503" data-original-width="1167" height="275" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8KhASLYbLsrswWtf89OKZo_tkf0WtNpAvbgJ8DnA0u-nbU64Tw8io_Z8RgAg9Be5NMl2rh_pFaskQszjzP1kqVNdOJ8OUWM4ugNKPIS6f54WI7T6SCuJSNaKrb-08YeIdIYBoEQ/s640/10+-+varghulf+example.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you take a look at my <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/02/x-wing-miniatures-core-courier-services.html">X-Wing fleet</a></span>, you'll see I took a different approach. These are more of a soft and gradual airbrushing blend to create a uniform greyscale with a focus on using green to add a sharp pop of colour contrast. (Much less subtle than the eyes on the above ghoul army.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbitPhIq92p8mCQopJKyzDAL5ryOzpwsneMLIKucLPEUSx588iZfQJEojsT_wU3wBTZzvEeQen-Hg5KzGwXeMphK88FyO2U5laYkpahslKxj9JLG_XF2HkpcOqLPuGcMcOFQkLw/s1600/X-Wing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="342" data-original-width="885" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXbitPhIq92p8mCQopJKyzDAL5ryOzpwsneMLIKucLPEUSx588iZfQJEojsT_wU3wBTZzvEeQen-Hg5KzGwXeMphK88FyO2U5laYkpahslKxj9JLG_XF2HkpcOqLPuGcMcOFQkLw/s640/X-Wing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Hopefully this has left you with some techniques to use on the topic of painting greyscale miniatures and possibly inspired you to try it yourself!<br />
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<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-82926091755102491422019-09-04T10:00:00.000-04:002019-09-04T10:00:03.306-04:00Molotow Chrome Pens and 3D-printed Holder<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmXO3GE1-Y6nApvVG_izwr-q_LnxQTh0UMMZ8e-PWA7A4uxmL3ISopPyTYejxtWKUwN-uKh7LkJL0IEzMTCfOQs-qAuJafNuyOWyIKeX8jeryJAsHBTpLV9U9ttUpmE8SwyHrGg/s1600/Molotow+Pen+Holder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="598" data-original-width="313" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxmXO3GE1-Y6nApvVG_izwr-q_LnxQTh0UMMZ8e-PWA7A4uxmL3ISopPyTYejxtWKUwN-uKh7LkJL0IEzMTCfOQs-qAuJafNuyOWyIKeX8jeryJAsHBTpLV9U9ttUpmE8SwyHrGg/s400/Molotow+Pen+Holder.jpg" width="208" /></a>It's my birthday today, but in a twist, I'm going to give you a present! This is a 3D-printable pen holder that I designed to hold 4mm Molotow Pens. Why do you need these pens, or a holder for them? Mirror-chrome! Both paintable and airbrushable. The holder I designed allows you to keep the pen upright and opened without worry about spilling. Since these pens need to be kept upright once you crack the tip, this holder can also be used for storage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU0BzZAVjCwQweWHnUM76SLqVM6XO2yuXE0oC52btXcgp9RImIvIdRQ7L0GChHiZBd7RmYcF82wyawdeDdr7T40qBy7TMKvR8RmNKoHSGCXEcofv9WQARchX-10pu-FnF6lxQXsQ/s1600/mirror+chrome.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="357" data-original-width="321" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU0BzZAVjCwQweWHnUM76SLqVM6XO2yuXE0oC52btXcgp9RImIvIdRQ7L0GChHiZBd7RmYcF82wyawdeDdr7T40qBy7TMKvR8RmNKoHSGCXEcofv9WQARchX-10pu-FnF6lxQXsQ/s320/mirror+chrome.PNG" width="287" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Design</span><br />
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I used a pair of calipers to take measurements of the pen to design this holder. It's composed of 4 key parts:<br />
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<ol>
<li>The base has a 65mm diameter, plenty to fit the other parts and ensure nothing will tip over.</li>
<li>The pen holder in the center fits the 4mm case perfectly, including an offset at the bottom where the pen steps in for the lid.</li>
<li>A cap holder (displayed below on the right) which lets you firmly snap the <b>unscrewed</b> lid in place.</li>
<li>A curved section (displayed below on the left) where the inner section of the pen can lay without worry of it rolling away and making a mess.</li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-wwRG6bLyaSwmBz5wUi8CUGo2C97s8drw30HbL0-7WPQ7niKxBn_glwFv7HQ1-VtsNSiQpZPOF-E6I9iH2QGWhP8OhUEVuHyDTDmdiIYaxw74rCMzJEGYQyO9soHPXdeymAx1Gg/s1600/Molotow+Pen+Holder+Wireframe.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="666" data-original-width="590" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-wwRG6bLyaSwmBz5wUi8CUGo2C97s8drw30HbL0-7WPQ7niKxBn_glwFv7HQ1-VtsNSiQpZPOF-E6I9iH2QGWhP8OhUEVuHyDTDmdiIYaxw74rCMzJEGYQyO9soHPXdeymAx1Gg/s320/Molotow+Pen+Holder+Wireframe.PNG" width="283" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZXcZgshyMAi68tenWK9MqYmtNKOM7k00ffm06vFFXoQBJcldr-HN5jx77f4qq0NL44RbcEHUyQSrYmCO-_17ZEtDywEiGjDPp0n4nvvuy0BREsoWbywcOQQc8Xw6wHhPYcsKLg/s1600/Molotow+Pen+Holder.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="659" data-original-width="546" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheZXcZgshyMAi68tenWK9MqYmtNKOM7k00ffm06vFFXoQBJcldr-HN5jx77f4qq0NL44RbcEHUyQSrYmCO-_17ZEtDywEiGjDPp0n4nvvuy0BREsoWbywcOQQc8Xw6wHhPYcsKLg/s320/Molotow+Pen+Holder.PNG" width="265" /></a></div>
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I build the design of this holder using <a href="https://www.openscad.org/">OpenSCAD</a>, a free programming based #D design software.<br />
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I've made this STL available to <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3838776"><span style="font-size: large;">download freely from Thingiverse</span></a>, though attribution is required for spreading and it's not to be used for commercial purposes.<br />
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<i>I'd be happy to design holders for their other sizes of pens and refills if someone wants to send me to free swag to design from! :D</i><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Opening The Pen</span><br />
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<ol>
<li>Instead of pulling the cap off, unscrew the whole lid section. (Place it on the holder.)</li>
<li>Use a knife to pry up the plastic inner section that seals off the reservoir. (Lay it on the holder)</li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVunjEsBI5VVZSytP8yvlxYm_yFRS28zTaFDdqIWXU5XiKhZgpGtqAX11alREJJvaLZX0ObwLGW9z9ap_ZU2qO5qugtWfTrp6ynYZAkystOmLcKWTO6pDgQmFsGdyawhGC0JyH1Q/s1600/accessory+spots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="570" data-original-width="757" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVunjEsBI5VVZSytP8yvlxYm_yFRS28zTaFDdqIWXU5XiKhZgpGtqAX11alREJJvaLZX0ObwLGW9z9ap_ZU2qO5qugtWfTrp6ynYZAkystOmLcKWTO6pDgQmFsGdyawhGC0JyH1Q/s320/accessory+spots.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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WARNING!<br />
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There are 2 parts you could potentially pry open. The one you want shares a diameter with the body of the pen. There's another section slightly indented that's under pressure of a spring and wet with paint - if you pry it open, you'll slingshot chrome splatters across the room. (Luckily, this happened outside and I was able to clean it up.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-02qEr9M5UONlFsjpiUPby_hmSyi-mIWuFTkYNIODkuR-JFtZRYAFRV-M8NUNuDOoGnYfx8NcUVCLSCB15uvSLIzAR9ut64LclGCtcrnOKxEFOs6FyY3m8sR9rdoYJCyuRKH-9w/s1600/Where+to+open.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="449" data-original-width="629" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-02qEr9M5UONlFsjpiUPby_hmSyi-mIWuFTkYNIODkuR-JFtZRYAFRV-M8NUNuDOoGnYfx8NcUVCLSCB15uvSLIzAR9ut64LclGCtcrnOKxEFOs6FyY3m8sR9rdoYJCyuRKH-9w/s320/Where+to+open.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting with the Ink</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Application</span><br />
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The ink will dry with a finish similar to what it looks like when it's wet. If you apply it like you might apply a regular paint, it'll look more like silver than a mirror. It needs to be applied thick.<br />
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This means painting with a brush can be a little blobby, unless you're filling something in like a small cockpit, goggles, a decoration, maybe a weapon you can thickly apply to... basically, it'll look good, but be ready to lose some detail. (Although even the fine canopy lines on my X-Wing miniatures weren't lost, so it's not THAT thick, just thick for someone used to thinning their paints * grin * )<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwJUzHZbYTe_xgN3eYcOT9Klzgbtkz_OID5YpmPjuY5oH5osK8aGqkRIauHossT6iKaVNrFchR0PoolTgd2RpRGDs66DgK0V-RsVw5uYatI7Xd06KlHd-q_SedjC_U01rC6c4Lg/s1600/68908120_2859932534036129_6817879249433657344_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="249" data-original-width="375" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibwJUzHZbYTe_xgN3eYcOT9Klzgbtkz_OID5YpmPjuY5oH5osK8aGqkRIauHossT6iKaVNrFchR0PoolTgd2RpRGDs66DgK0V-RsVw5uYatI7Xd06KlHd-q_SedjC_U01rC6c4Lg/s320/68908120_2859932534036129_6817879249433657344_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can run it through an airbrush without any additional thinner. It's the right consistency to use at standard pressures. (16-20 psi) Since you'll be spraying thick to get the right chrome look, be sure to fully mask the area you're airbrushing to avoid overspray!<br />
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You'll need to wait hours for it to dry and if you touch it out of curiosity, you'll ruin the finish. I usually don't assume it's ready for a day.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Washing Over Chrome</span><br />
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The finish of the chrome is super glossy and thin paint like washes beads up, so it doesn't apply very well. It also appears to cloud the chrome. At most you could carefully paint washes into recesses and force darker shadows.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Painting Over Chrome</span><br />
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Using this for my X-Wing cockpits, I needed to paint the canopy back in after chroming them. To do so, I first painted the canopy using Liquitex Black Gesso. (<a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/gesso-paint-on-primer.html">Paint on primer</a>) If I thinned the gesso at all, it beaded on the surface of the chrome, so you need to apply it normal and thick. But this does allow you to paint over it.<br />
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<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GsMMJaMXpt8" width="560"></iframe><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Varnishing</span><br />
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<b>Varnish clouds the chrome.</b> There are apparently some clear coats out there that work and I've had a little luck with Liquitex Gloss Varnish, but you'll definitely want to experiment first. Unfortunately, NOT varnishing makes it susceptible to tarnishing by touching. So be warned.<br />
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Also, as mentioned with washes, thin paints, including varnish, will bead on the surface of the chrome and not apply evenly.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Clean Up</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorOn5GwY42YT8tsRXfYWeUVWRn2YOtev2VHdMGNIupig5n2T5EHe7h3k0gvxBXDxoqzN7LAJ-9YFguNTI-BFeZYz0Ytv3Bd636YqzzRRwsbfzHgEFaMH7aU76Gc-7IBKVeO9_Og/s1600/tamiyalacquerthinner.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="768" data-original-width="576" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjorOn5GwY42YT8tsRXfYWeUVWRn2YOtev2VHdMGNIupig5n2T5EHe7h3k0gvxBXDxoqzN7LAJ-9YFguNTI-BFeZYz0Ytv3Bd636YqzzRRwsbfzHgEFaMH7aU76Gc-7IBKVeO9_Og/s200/tamiyalacquerthinner.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
I've been using Tamiya Lacquer Thinner for cleaning both brushes and airbrushes. It's nasty stuff - you don't want to be breathing it in without a mask at least.. and use in a well ventilated space. But you REALLY don't want the liquid chrome drying in your airbrush or the base of your brush.<br />
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<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
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<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-59187514677257348952019-04-10T10:00:00.000-04:002019-04-10T10:00:01.131-04:00Painting Punk Turtle and Jeans<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_SI7tzCikOUwj0TnPFObItm_T7bY0Kn8y9OL5qCa0DXnY73XxhBpW3HwqdiptQ0fxkRo7U_XZ13AVtlJsbTP1qaxFMuIdHhqUXgxd2a8Xx3mgCQ0EUPWR08tKK34JEmXKv4ulg/s1600/00+-+painting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="124" data-original-width="463" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJ_SI7tzCikOUwj0TnPFObItm_T7bY0Kn8y9OL5qCa0DXnY73XxhBpW3HwqdiptQ0fxkRo7U_XZ13AVtlJsbTP1qaxFMuIdHhqUXgxd2a8Xx3mgCQ0EUPWR08tKK34JEmXKv4ulg/s1600/00+-+painting.jpg" /></a></div>
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You may have read my post a few weeks back where I <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2019/03/impact-miniatures-3d-printing-review.html">reviewed</a></span> the 3D printing services from <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.impactminiatures.com/">Impact Miniatures</a></span>. (If you haven't, I recommend taking a read!)<br />
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This week I want to focus on the steps I took to actually paint the miniature. (Like the Jeans) I painted him in a style very "me" and as usual, really like how he turned out. I did try a few things though as a way to challenge myself and experiment and there's going to be a few things I'll take away from this one.<br />
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To touch on these items, the first is that I used a new flow aid. Simply, Curry's brand instead of Liquitex. The difference I found was that Curry's was a little more "oily", (Not really, because it's water based) but that's kind of what it felt like - essentially this was nicer for blending from one colour to the next and it kept the paints a little wetter longer.<br />
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The other thing I did was I avoided using washes. (Mostly)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUnz2wGbEefEx9Le0xe5bEgjTRefWgyg1j-ayWQgycCgDD6LY6vAhr60zdR-OksM7SP_2MRucr5n7mcgi3iD90C5PlPs4xGxW9dbWsTeSHmAZg9qo36nna5iRFPEr8MxFNvq5pg/s1600/31+-+Final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="895" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUnz2wGbEefEx9Le0xe5bEgjTRefWgyg1j-ayWQgycCgDD6LY6vAhr60zdR-OksM7SP_2MRucr5n7mcgi3iD90C5PlPs4xGxW9dbWsTeSHmAZg9qo36nna5iRFPEr8MxFNvq5pg/s640/31+-+Final.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Rats!</span><br />
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The rat base from Hero Forge fit my punk turtle concept really well, even if in the end he looks a little akin to Bebop or Rocksteady. Ah well. I didn't go into too much detail on the rats. Mostly used a larger brush to blend a dark base brown or grey into white. Only real technique on these was allowing brush strokes to be visible and trying to paint in directions their fur might be flowing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwkdIADJ0y7FLpdZa7U_1coHrxMntdjGzsU0vHQEMGnDPUNKtPRHC_x7oHXYMLEyGFzFGcoI7aAkLsj0XlK1zEYE1rb-dmH5cauVdvEyhzYA6Kdv-6e38iBgSq-yiSYn0mU9HGA/s1600/06+-+Rats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="886" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXwkdIADJ0y7FLpdZa7U_1coHrxMntdjGzsU0vHQEMGnDPUNKtPRHC_x7oHXYMLEyGFzFGcoI7aAkLsj0XlK1zEYE1rb-dmH5cauVdvEyhzYA6Kdv-6e38iBgSq-yiSYn0mU9HGA/s320/06+-+Rats.jpg" width="280" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting the Half-Shell</span><br />
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First attempt at painting a turtle shell went alright for me, I think. The steps I used, from left to right:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Painting the base coat - As with his other plated parts I put orange in the recesses to start. Then, I outlined each scute (the technical term for each plate in a turtle's shell.) in a dark green, followed by lining around that with a light green and another dark green spot in the middle of the scute.</li>
<li>The next step was to clean up the messiness of the base coat by outlining the outside of each scute with highlights on the upper edges.</li>
<li>Followed by dark green shadows on the lower edges.</li>
<li>In the final photo I actually have applied a very light wash of a chamo green mixed with flow aid as a thinner.</li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ8pYg_vRERE7_STvFDtVlJbEdHjht63MFGCwNbI4JUFoyJq1zYyEN2dYo85Fxx8_n5I1BHF2Q471_m0UDMv7DwDb_oMxHUBDzv2jJKMM_hL4hUg9ZWTX5GuSPK0hYoLqSOtB6ug/s1600/20+-+Painting+Shells.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="489" data-original-width="1301" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ8pYg_vRERE7_STvFDtVlJbEdHjht63MFGCwNbI4JUFoyJq1zYyEN2dYo85Fxx8_n5I1BHF2Q471_m0UDMv7DwDb_oMxHUBDzv2jJKMM_hL4hUg9ZWTX5GuSPK0hYoLqSOtB6ug/s640/20+-+Painting+Shells.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting the Bottle and OSL</span><br />
(Object Source Lighting)<br />
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I had intended to use this as an actual tutorial, but apparently painting bottles is tricky - so I'll have to cover this in more detail later. The basics are this:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Upper Left - Primed Black</li>
<li>Lower Left - Bright green on the lower half, light green highlight on the upper half.</li>
<li>Upper Right - Same thing, just from a different and more blurred angle apparently.</li>
<li>Lower Right - Apologies for the Step 1: Paint, Step 2: ???, Step 3: Finished! approach.<br />- Basically I brightened up the green base and added more highlight.<br />- I think I ended up using a darker green to emphasise the division between the liquid and the highlighted rest of the bottle.<br />- Then I applied a bunch of layers of the green, thinned with water into a thick wash, to create the OSL effect on the model AND the bottle. (this also blended the highlight and the liquid together.) That OSL wash is what ends up applied to the stones on the ground, rats, the legs, turtle shell and a few other places.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32h1_UKOaq0EsPMBi83diy-Q0tE8EosuOsjbz3ACkPzB9zYZ5kl05M0HK3nS-gHiMYK8-KI5MNePOCTjxQCGrbizhPSvUpYCKdx-NTF6In5YDHzDqh3Cdk1nFFcZMYqZEIaGQ5w/s1600/21+-+painting+bottle.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="444" data-original-width="820" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj32h1_UKOaq0EsPMBi83diy-Q0tE8EosuOsjbz3ACkPzB9zYZ5kl05M0HK3nS-gHiMYK8-KI5MNePOCTjxQCGrbizhPSvUpYCKdx-NTF6In5YDHzDqh3Cdk1nFFcZMYqZEIaGQ5w/s640/21+-+painting+bottle.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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If you caught my post on <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2015/12/day-glo-pigments.html">day-glow pigments and UV light</a></span> then you've seen it before, but basically I used some super bright green pigment mixed with pouring medium and painted it thick into the cracks beneath the bottle. (And promptly forgot to clean my brush. Natch.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglSIVC4xqSQlYc8UNxuRgtNLFKSfAjaiDm8H51tAia9mlaLwk8aVXeVz8x0TShuzoLD7gy7SAQ9Pz50oRZGFq5EnUIQg9MxUTKK9dtmq-Bhq2ramTo2YeSdqKG1opkGIvEMNDjXw/s1600/22+-+ooze.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="1137" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglSIVC4xqSQlYc8UNxuRgtNLFKSfAjaiDm8H51tAia9mlaLwk8aVXeVz8x0TShuzoLD7gy7SAQ9Pz50oRZGFq5EnUIQg9MxUTKK9dtmq-Bhq2ramTo2YeSdqKG1opkGIvEMNDjXw/s640/22+-+ooze.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting a Paint Can</span><br />
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Nothing fancy, but I think it turned out pretty good.<br />
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<ul>
<li>The rims were just dark metal with a silver highlight.</li>
<li>The bottle itself was grey highlighted into white.</li>
<li>The upper rim was based the same as the other metal rims but with a thick purple self-made wash to allow some of the metallic to show through.</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCsmY51RoJtr8E9R5mewLX6cthEKaEyQJGuTCXY9QBtVQCGAfVyuIxivTXDHEV3IYDmMqVkOP6CuW4upGAaSZbBn9BOkkvkv1xigG5OiyGhYv2lA-gBB4vSVX-Kb-IWLInT_WQ3g/s1600/23+-+spray+paint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="226" data-original-width="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCsmY51RoJtr8E9R5mewLX6cthEKaEyQJGuTCXY9QBtVQCGAfVyuIxivTXDHEV3IYDmMqVkOP6CuW4upGAaSZbBn9BOkkvkv1xigG5OiyGhYv2lA-gBB4vSVX-Kb-IWLInT_WQ3g/s1600/23+-+spray+paint.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting Jeans</span><br />
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This is the part I'm REALLY happy to share because I think the jeans turned out fantastic.<br />
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As a first layer, I painted a deep blue using Curry's flow aid to keep it wet.<br />
I then mixed a little lighter blue in the dark blue and kind of blotched it on randomly. I still focused on the areas that highlights would reach. In the third photo below I did the same thing just with the blue paint even lighter.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-OgnL2_oGBxHcFb6f-9WPleiKHO2gSs3nOP1fJx6syXD_yQRi0EYvNyDske_MaGc3BDnWe741OKV9BUtFFsMAy4Dy6HcwJuxJJOP4DILcLeACpmybfel-f2UrOMeQGXeZoR4OA/s1600/51+-+foundation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="366" data-original-width="695" height="336" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN-OgnL2_oGBxHcFb6f-9WPleiKHO2gSs3nOP1fJx6syXD_yQRi0EYvNyDske_MaGc3BDnWe741OKV9BUtFFsMAy4Dy6HcwJuxJJOP4DILcLeACpmybfel-f2UrOMeQGXeZoR4OA/s640/51+-+foundation.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The next couple steps add the jean texture we're all familiar with. Now, I used a rough brush (pictured below) because the irregular bristles were great for dabbing the highlights on to the material with. I also didn't work the tip of the brush into a point as I'd usually do too.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFz-15ym0WAJnMAYweXMpdDx4GMx90qH_T8ssdN_FgliSi_yDE9rVBF9S1oHnm8pZISuBGWvEAuSd4oWVqukAr8iJ3ZdYIOROenWIe6afL226Cn3clUHCyG6m7rG05pRdhmo9Jg/s1600/50+-+jeans+%2528Brush%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="220" data-original-width="499" height="141" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLFz-15ym0WAJnMAYweXMpdDx4GMx90qH_T8ssdN_FgliSi_yDE9rVBF9S1oHnm8pZISuBGWvEAuSd4oWVqukAr8iJ3ZdYIOROenWIe6afL226Cn3clUHCyG6m7rG05pRdhmo9Jg/s320/50+-+jeans+%2528Brush%2529.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Basically, after getting paint on the tip of that brush, I dotted a little onto my paper towel (Like how you'd get paint off the brush when <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/12/dry-brushing.html">drybrushing</a></span> but with a dabbing motion instead of wiping.) then tapped and dabbed the tip of the brush in random ways and angles across the surface of the pants. It's time consuming and you still want to focus on the highlight areas, but the effect is pretty solid.<br />
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In the final step I focused a little more on the edges of creases and the pants / holes. I still used the rough brush for this, but you might find it easier with a cleaner point.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoObsuJkDxtV2u3tRX-X7BgV1lRsRGc1XAhs1c1Vjy1ctekfxDHrmE15hwT0Los5JLVj-SpNJE7a_P0Oaqy73TrybLHPG5vPEnxa2YQ2atclHt7D2y0Rcor235nmhlkTar1P63HA/s1600/52+-+detail.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="366" data-original-width="879" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoObsuJkDxtV2u3tRX-X7BgV1lRsRGc1XAhs1c1Vjy1ctekfxDHrmE15hwT0Los5JLVj-SpNJE7a_P0Oaqy73TrybLHPG5vPEnxa2YQ2atclHt7D2y0Rcor235nmhlkTar1P63HA/s640/52+-+detail.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Here are the same steps as above but applied to the back of his pants / pants pocket.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgVj8MhDOFQZjrltXrIk54YLbec20OQsSq2ZSb7OX4anqSv2pINvetNUWnHonzc8j8dV-vdC3q_x53JGnHmpHoaohEKBGwTVCXg6_kgXhBL9FsmE3WLsBeMZ9YgXtJ3wcG421Xw/s1600/55+-+jeans+back+pocket.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="221" data-original-width="1061" height="132" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikgVj8MhDOFQZjrltXrIk54YLbec20OQsSq2ZSb7OX4anqSv2pINvetNUWnHonzc8j8dV-vdC3q_x53JGnHmpHoaohEKBGwTVCXg6_kgXhBL9FsmE3WLsBeMZ9YgXtJ3wcG421Xw/s640/55+-+jeans+back+pocket.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
For further clarification on what I'm talking about when I say "dab"...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuAIv9Pl5sxCLZTZY2MiaTVHkaC-DYV-sItvefcSi-eF_c1p0O7DWVzpynvp2sb1IP73k0aj8EtrLNA7wluG_OKt27Uo98FOQSu5pYTgYpvywg9nrzqF_mc4JYffx-EgCtYD9zDQ/s1600/cam-newton-dab.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="724" data-original-width="1300" height="111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuAIv9Pl5sxCLZTZY2MiaTVHkaC-DYV-sItvefcSi-eF_c1p0O7DWVzpynvp2sb1IP73k0aj8EtrLNA7wluG_OKt27Uo98FOQSu5pYTgYpvywg9nrzqF_mc4JYffx-EgCtYD9zDQ/s200/cam-newton-dab.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
Nope, it's actually this:<br />
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<center>
<iframe allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_w2dp3Y-QVA" width="560"></iframe><br />
</center>
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Punk Turtle, Totally Not Bebop or Rocksteady</span><br />
<br />
There we have it! Overall, an aesthetic that really speaks to me, kind of reminds me of the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/08/non-traditional-primer-for-age-of.html">Age of Sigmar Knight</a></span> I painted a while back, though I didn't intend for the highlights to be so bright. I think I created a good balance though and instead of everything hitting the bright highlight, it's more central around his jacket and jeans while the rest of the mini eases off.<br />
<br />
All in all, it was a great review to write and it was nice to just paint a mini to be creative from start to finish.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUnz2wGbEefEx9Le0xe5bEgjTRefWgyg1j-ayWQgycCgDD6LY6vAhr60zdR-OksM7SP_2MRucr5n7mcgi3iD90C5PlPs4xGxW9dbWsTeSHmAZg9qo36nna5iRFPEr8MxFNvq5pg/s1600/31+-+Final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="525" data-original-width="895" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwUnz2wGbEefEx9Le0xe5bEgjTRefWgyg1j-ayWQgycCgDD6LY6vAhr60zdR-OksM7SP_2MRucr5n7mcgi3iD90C5PlPs4xGxW9dbWsTeSHmAZg9qo36nna5iRFPEr8MxFNvq5pg/s640/31+-+Final.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-36422560230633038442019-04-01T07:30:00.000-04:002019-04-01T07:30:03.409-04:00Liquid Talent (New Product!)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzfQJulZCbrUuADD9d7U-Yal-rmvWNouNc0MLKVhdxa3BiH69dG4xt3FyKQyo7uCC3H_bZNnV8CUBf1thhNiZFjggTMsdGxzpgIwoXKoLkqNlyM8mcu-8jrnVt5W4uLQdGSFydg/s1600/00+-+Liquid+Talent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="363" data-original-width="968" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOzfQJulZCbrUuADD9d7U-Yal-rmvWNouNc0MLKVhdxa3BiH69dG4xt3FyKQyo7uCC3H_bZNnV8CUBf1thhNiZFjggTMsdGxzpgIwoXKoLkqNlyM8mcu-8jrnVt5W4uLQdGSFydg/s640/00+-+Liquid+Talent.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
You've all heard of washes being referred to as "Liquid Talent" I'm sure? Well, <b>I'm excited to announce that I'm releasing a new product - ACTUAL Liquid Talent!</b><br />
<br />
No longer do you need a generous application of the wash Agrax Earthshade. With Wargaming Tradecraft brand Liquid Talent, the difference is seamless. It comes in a convenient dropper bottle too, so there isn't a risk of spilling your traditional talent in a bottle all over the place.<br />
<br />
In the following tutorial, you can see just how easy it is to apply!<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLxjPpGeCo1jzjK_aT2L6UcwwnwHpFab5a6ifA296jpNYVOf_spzzt9fVhvmSHqq6wo-5PGB0omyWQ2_iSP3foi5eg4djV8dn5YvGwVC0I0mwzBd2q4g9QT0E1n9Qrlb7vyYJLkg/s1600/01+-+Liquid+Talent.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="369" data-original-width="152" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLxjPpGeCo1jzjK_aT2L6UcwwnwHpFab5a6ifA296jpNYVOf_spzzt9fVhvmSHqq6wo-5PGB0omyWQ2_iSP3foi5eg4djV8dn5YvGwVC0I0mwzBd2q4g9QT0E1n9Qrlb7vyYJLkg/s200/01+-+Liquid+Talent.jpg" width="81" /></a><span style="font-size: x-large;">Liquid Talent</span><br />
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With my Wargaming Tradecraft brand, application is easier than any of the competitors!<br />
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All you need to do is the following:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Add a couple drops of Liquid Talent to any miniature.</li>
<li>Wait for it to dry.</li>
<li>See the results!</li>
</ol>
<div>
This means that a single bottle of Wargaming Tradecraft Liquid Talent is all you need for any average sized army. You don't need a brush and there's no risk of making a mess with a standard wash pot.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKHcqzmJlz0l5TlC9DXa6KHvOHFq5A24rrdhNfxasHFOCJkzFXl_jQKVgc03yECbhLMKGHZjsZ73_dWZb4TBQfelNHVNvyszq_b1oMMYFt0qAlMzJE4KkHWnaVGVkxz4OnT4DAw/s1600/02+-+Application.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="396" data-original-width="621" height="408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZKHcqzmJlz0l5TlC9DXa6KHvOHFq5A24rrdhNfxasHFOCJkzFXl_jQKVgc03yECbhLMKGHZjsZ73_dWZb4TBQfelNHVNvyszq_b1oMMYFt0qAlMzJE4KkHWnaVGVkxz4OnT4DAw/s640/02+-+Application.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Multiple Applications</span><br />
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Now, depending on how large of an effect you're after, you can apply it multiple times. Notice below, how with one application the effect is subtle but on the right you can see how with only two applications the effect is so much more visible. With the patented formula, the effect is cumulative!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9k6FOi6GXMG0XlQTl1jE-qbNYK5GUvWB1UQh3HFBLJ1NU_8O8Z3IhZej1tbhBPxidsKvRC23WhGnZF4EpfDye-heqedf7CIt4rgrnDUH1IfDzlTmBYcyNLVlGwAsa9gxAtqPMoQ/s1600/03+-+Multiple+Applications.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="338" data-original-width="748" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9k6FOi6GXMG0XlQTl1jE-qbNYK5GUvWB1UQh3HFBLJ1NU_8O8Z3IhZej1tbhBPxidsKvRC23WhGnZF4EpfDye-heqedf7CIt4rgrnDUH1IfDzlTmBYcyNLVlGwAsa9gxAtqPMoQ/s640/03+-+Multiple+Applications.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Left</b>: Original miniature, <b>Middle</b>: One Application, <b>Right</b>: Two Applications.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
This design was intentional to allow most people to create a subtle effect while those who want a more extreme effect don't have to buy too much product. Money saved! That's the Wargaming Tradecraft difference.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Other Effects</span><br />
<br />
Below, I want to highlight some of the other differences that <b>Wargaming Tradecraft Liquid Talent</b> can make on your hobby.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Non-Metallic Metals</span><br />
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These days, everyone wants that achievable "NMM" paint job. Knowing this, Liquid Talent has been formulated to react with TMM paints (True-Metallic Metals) to automatically convert your work to the NMM ideal.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGE-09PJIL24yUmwre10pcCm8PfzRin9Bb-YGvWBoMAcBcPA9ACWwHn7vqHkJMXisJuoBszSbsC3h3byesQ8HHoRNd_v_hBvrwBwocOhcZaU-4UWsPv22s8E5UzJ_7xKyZ9y1ScQ/s1600/04+-+TMM+to+NMM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="745" data-original-width="636" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGE-09PJIL24yUmwre10pcCm8PfzRin9Bb-YGvWBoMAcBcPA9ACWwHn7vqHkJMXisJuoBszSbsC3h3byesQ8HHoRNd_v_hBvrwBwocOhcZaU-4UWsPv22s8E5UzJ_7xKyZ9y1ScQ/s400/04+-+TMM+to+NMM.jpg" width="340" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Muscle Definition</span><br />
<br />
Skin-tones are another difficult thing to paint. Liquid Talent can highlight the natural muscles in both male and female miniatures while still cleaning up roughness left behind by previous attempts to paint, wash and highlight.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdU5xB8Avyk3EFUGR5ClX656Z9YjuOZhDnEu_QoY86D7arUhQd_22JLLNTveOH7o1v8069PuUEsXFN-Ef6k2RU65TS6H8XCs96xS5uVWN2tEDMRi4QJRiljW36RqOpPwnlcqZlEw/s1600/06+-+Suble+Application.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="243" data-original-width="466" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdU5xB8Avyk3EFUGR5ClX656Z9YjuOZhDnEu_QoY86D7arUhQd_22JLLNTveOH7o1v8069PuUEsXFN-Ef6k2RU65TS6H8XCs96xS5uVWN2tEDMRi4QJRiljW36RqOpPwnlcqZlEw/s640/06+-+Suble+Application.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
Wargaming Tradecraft Liquid Talent can also clean up tricky areas like faces - particularly making eyes and mouths look the way they should.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyisfIkeOuiSxwyXvA7GFdbOV2k9wtWZ78aL63wgRO4YSQEVM6ZvoqxMNGhJG33J8pUcqAaaVivN0nsbmc315Njvc5YFTChrzX8u1R-wunUEiVCfDM2HYYHDgtSEr8YnR7K_vf9Q/s1600/07+-+Muscle+Definition.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="323" data-original-width="497" height="414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyisfIkeOuiSxwyXvA7GFdbOV2k9wtWZ78aL63wgRO4YSQEVM6ZvoqxMNGhJG33J8pUcqAaaVivN0nsbmc315Njvc5YFTChrzX8u1R-wunUEiVCfDM2HYYHDgtSEr8YnR7K_vf9Q/s640/07+-+Muscle+Definition.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Artistic Effects</span><br />
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Even for miniatures with non-traditional tones, Liquid Talent can help you out. In the below photo, notice how despite having a range of intense colours (Purple, Green, Orange and metals) it still manages to improve the appearance of the miniature while balancing the effect across the whole figure.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMlkX7Ph9DY4LqQceKE4w9ltHOVNoFxmUtZdecvoeHKpU9KY53QeZUWjuUncMuoa2t72UsYGjVqEQ6UCyAHcVEV7vX2hRsMDFKfHWJOVn-aUkIoaClI8ScMaOaV9ucwmrxBRmfqA/s1600/08+-+More.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="398" data-original-width="798" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMlkX7Ph9DY4LqQceKE4w9ltHOVNoFxmUtZdecvoeHKpU9KY53QeZUWjuUncMuoa2t72UsYGjVqEQ6UCyAHcVEV7vX2hRsMDFKfHWJOVn-aUkIoaClI8ScMaOaV9ucwmrxBRmfqA/s640/08+-+More.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Unpainted Miniatures</span><br />
<br />
Here at Wargaming Tradecraft, I recognize that not everyone enjoys painting their miniatures. Don't worry, I've got you covered too! The below figure is from Bones and not primed. Liquid Talent still manages to add texture, definition and a little splash of colour allowing you get minis on table with a minimal effort.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJivKqjquxiB3jRHzx9N2WQGc_g_uHKOVgwU9kpYdXYOcXjJdO2Fwfm5WI1bzzfiucXuqURfBnlHtYX6bOpVVPbnxdwb1HLuDlYwi72fraCGsy5fVlgpA2d2mPF7vsx8s6IY_Ng/s1600/09+-+unpainted.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="499" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkJivKqjquxiB3jRHzx9N2WQGc_g_uHKOVgwU9kpYdXYOcXjJdO2Fwfm5WI1bzzfiucXuqURfBnlHtYX6bOpVVPbnxdwb1HLuDlYwi72fraCGsy5fVlgpA2d2mPF7vsx8s6IY_Ng/s320/09+-+unpainted.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Wargaming Tradecraft's Liquid Talent</span><br />
<br />
I hope that I've managed to highlight the reasons you want to purchase Liquid Talent, coming soon to a Favorite Local Gaming Store near you!<br />
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<br />
<div style="text-align: right;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>* Credit where it's due, images created using the <a href="https://prisma-ai.com/">Prisma Filter App</a>.</i></span></div>
<div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-8783761719390160302019-03-28T10:00:00.001-04:002021-02-03T03:46:11.261-05:00Impact Miniatures 3D Printing Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEDccqwxqIwUDuRm440LU3FSn0Uh5Mlh0IFxXHyT2Qst_1ZD1MtGgJzPJqA0O_-v-lZ-PMcERDhQx6TNlyCyWTBZCKGNOQMA8zMpwwBdVFRIPfHJsENt8G-8jbyKEcop3UzH2rw/s1600/00+-+review.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="163" data-original-width="429" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguEDccqwxqIwUDuRm440LU3FSn0Uh5Mlh0IFxXHyT2Qst_1ZD1MtGgJzPJqA0O_-v-lZ-PMcERDhQx6TNlyCyWTBZCKGNOQMA8zMpwwBdVFRIPfHJsENt8G-8jbyKEcop3UzH2rw/s1600/00+-+review.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />[Update, Feb. 2021] <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2021/02/impact-miniatures-review-follow-up.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Read the follow-up review</span></a> to see how Impact has improved their printing even more.<br /><div><br /></div><div>
The future is now.<br />
<br />
No, really, it's pretty close to being here and today I'm looking at one of the reasons why. 3D printing has come a long way in recent years and I'm always excited to see how it can be applied to our hobbies involving miniatures and wargaming. Maybe you've read my previous <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/11/review-hero-forge-custom-miniatures.html">review on Hero Forge</a></span>, a site that allows you to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.heroforge.com/">custom design</a></span> a miniature, then order it 3D printed for your gaming and painting needs. Well, now they give you the option to purchase the 3D file and print it yourself - or, get it printed by a third party like <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.impactminiatures.com/">Impact Miniatures</a></span>.<br />
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This is a company that offers high quality 3D Printing services at excellent prices. (In addition to their ranges of dice and accessories as well as miniatures in the styles of chibi, fantasy and more!) Don't take my word on it though, there are plenty of photos within this review so you can see the quality for yourself.<br />
<br />
<i>Full disclosure, I was contacted by the owner of Impact Miniatures, Tom Anders, and was provided free samples for the purposes of this review.</i><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Prints</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOzDPqo_jHpea5e6Qf4N6X5uAtukZFRIr0VGH_Xo2wMGiiFXLNmC_jGzDAytkuwiupAreW_kpQTF6chddkjokrKOgvQNAjLSXxyGMem19L1UEO6rONEPjFnUmWr_GrINZQWTFL5A/s1600/01+-+unprimed.jpg" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="549" data-original-width="642" height="170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOzDPqo_jHpea5e6Qf4N6X5uAtukZFRIr0VGH_Xo2wMGiiFXLNmC_jGzDAytkuwiupAreW_kpQTF6chddkjokrKOgvQNAjLSXxyGMem19L1UEO6rONEPjFnUmWr_GrINZQWTFL5A/s200/01+-+unprimed.jpg" width="200" /></a>You can click the photos to expand them, but basically the miniatures themselves are printed in high quality liquid resin. That translucent blue material makes it a little difficult to see the detail, but in the below photo where I've primed it, you can see that it's quite excellent.<br />
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Delivery time is about 1 - 1.5 weeks (US shipping) and the shipping cost is a flat fee, so it won't cost extra if you order more. (Within reason, I'm sure.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Vm5Ld-UOQFXJ5wqhyphenhyphenTUJzaO_mPhTYy8XVT7iqKG7uT9ZN5K45J_ZPPuoLmQwXBtC6dpU5W61FCiOXcKL2gBblxFRUgXc0BR8mhv602kgYKSP1yQRlRcDK5_QfCyzLTZ6dmXjIQ/s1600/03+-+detail+1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="610" data-original-width="911" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3Vm5Ld-UOQFXJ5wqhyphenhyphenTUJzaO_mPhTYy8XVT7iqKG7uT9ZN5K45J_ZPPuoLmQwXBtC6dpU5W61FCiOXcKL2gBblxFRUgXc0BR8mhv602kgYKSP1yQRlRcDK5_QfCyzLTZ6dmXjIQ/s320/03+-+detail+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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If I compare a close up of the face detail, to the 3D model itself, it's very close. There's a little lost around the teeth and while the 3D model's mouth is slightly open, that's lost in the final product. Now, there's still a bunch of detail amongst the teeth, but that open mouth was an intentional test on my part as you'll see later compared to a previous model I ordered from Hero Forge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAq95xFmXEvOhA49IGLTOP4TiHGuy_xvrgaAWgU1DXEQ5jRlwD2VDjvoYyir4nnj_z1cflqjb1Fe9zQb2gxW19OiEGscLyBfh1NN2yROxH13nV0qwWR46rSC0_QWWgGe1IrptoA/s1600/04+-+detail+problems+1.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="253" data-original-width="519" height="155" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfAq95xFmXEvOhA49IGLTOP4TiHGuy_xvrgaAWgU1DXEQ5jRlwD2VDjvoYyir4nnj_z1cflqjb1Fe9zQb2gxW19OiEGscLyBfh1NN2yROxH13nV0qwWR46rSC0_QWWgGe1IrptoA/s320/04+-+detail+problems+1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tom also sent me the model on the left of the below photo as an example of what a model looks like when it's done being printed. He had this to say about the work that goes into preparing a miniature for delivery:<br />
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"The supports in mine ... I add by hand so I make sure to do it in a way that misses the face and as much detail of the mini as possible. I then use brass cutters and diamond files to remove the supports and ship the model out."<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzy7Vg3ka2ILc-hI9YajupnieVxQs1phEkyzMX5znronJp8Hur6zVwVKrWP32TQT8j7HxN9sC7f6QKPR9Un_apyp2QRcXU-nkOx90P6UiW26SpgnjvdIeimYd2aViU_SHqDZzKcw/s1600/02+-+Cleanup.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="1206" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzy7Vg3ka2ILc-hI9YajupnieVxQs1phEkyzMX5znronJp8Hur6zVwVKrWP32TQT8j7HxN9sC7f6QKPR9Un_apyp2QRcXU-nkOx90P6UiW26SpgnjvdIeimYd2aViU_SHqDZzKcw/s640/02+-+Cleanup.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Now, there was a little support missed that I easily cut out (middle photo above) and some places on the miniature where you can see where the supports were. This is the trade off of no mold lines - they could be scraped / filed off or filled with putty in some cases, just like when you're preparing a miniature from a mold for paint.<br />
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You will notice that around the top-right of the shell, some of the detail gets a little funny as those supports all wind in there. However, in the below photo, you can see that a little paint can still make everything look alright.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXU1NtLwNbq3fIl8oDiHBBecYx2iCd2TJ3u3D1GL5wdArejjwPXaaRjwzKl8OO5tIkXdOnvXEc4ABe4bUPbI5KXBFtWql9H7x_ERT45SL3ZHa5HwCJtuZUgV2ey2MYgxSaslnIA/s1600/02.5+-+cleanup+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="330" data-original-width="267" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXU1NtLwNbq3fIl8oDiHBBecYx2iCd2TJ3u3D1GL5wdArejjwPXaaRjwzKl8OO5tIkXdOnvXEc4ABe4bUPbI5KXBFtWql9H7x_ERT45SL3ZHa5HwCJtuZUgV2ey2MYgxSaslnIA/s320/02.5+-+cleanup+2.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
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I also found a few places where detail got a little funny. For example, look at the top of the pant leg below as well as the bottom of both pant legs. In the print, there are some scale-like texture spots and there's nothing where the bottom of the pant legs should be. My suspicion is this might be an issue with the source model itself, not the printing process, because things like textures through pants shouldn't just appear.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimScseJbgIlQICx5RvVIiWz_6_mqjoGHh2AO-xrXvOIVvSkd82bbSewQyL_mDev7Ti9at0JZDA9ir0ZsDI3ZRcZNjug_TzYt3zppGJuBnxKyD24BBjpsLaX5y-G1E99fOPclvP-w/s1600/05+-+detail+problems+2.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="251" data-original-width="755" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimScseJbgIlQICx5RvVIiWz_6_mqjoGHh2AO-xrXvOIVvSkd82bbSewQyL_mDev7Ti9at0JZDA9ir0ZsDI3ZRcZNjug_TzYt3zppGJuBnxKyD24BBjpsLaX5y-G1E99fOPclvP-w/s640/05+-+detail+problems+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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You can see a final photo of the miniature at the end of this review.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Comparison to Hero Forge</span><br />
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Again, part of the point of this review was to answer the question, "Why order through Impact Miniatures, when I can just design and order it through Hero Forge?" Well, below I'm going to look at some direct comparisons between pricing, service and quality compared to the miniature I previously reviewed from Hero Forge.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pricing Comparison</span><br />
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Definitely a win on the Impact Miniatures side. They bill based on how much material it will cost to print, so if you put the model on a mount or make it larger or holding a bunch of stuff, it'll cost a little more, but typically you're looking around the $6-12 mark. You'll also have to pay for buying the STL file from Hero Forge which is a flat $10 fee, then shipping is also extra. My price comparison below uses shipping to Canada, which is a little more than their US cost.<br />
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<b>Hero Forge</b>: $30 print + $11.50 shipping = $41.50 USD<br />
<b>Impact Miniatures</b>: $8 print + $10 STL + $10 shipping = $28 USD<br />
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That's a pretty significant price difference and puts the cost of the miniature back in the realm of what you might pay for a nice single miniature from other miniature lines AND keep in mind you're getting something custom.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Shipping Comparison</span><br />
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As you saw above, shipping costs are pretty close. Now, Impact ships their miniatures in 1-5 days, meaning you get it in 1-1.5 weeks. (Could be a little longer when coming across the border, though it was pretty close to that when I received it in Canada.) Hero Forge prints through Shapeways, which currently has a 3 week wait plus shipping time on their premium plastic. (When you choose your material, it notifies you if there is an extended wait time on the order.)<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Services Comparison</span><br />
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With Hero Forge, you're ordering whatever you end up designing through their website. Impact Miniatures offers some custom work and Tom was a great guy to talk with and discuss his services. I'm planning on ordering some heads that he'll end up chopping off the miniatures in some 3D software for some custom work I want to do.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Quality Comparison</span><br />
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Looking at the actual final product, the below photo shows Hero Forge (left) compared to Impact Miniatures. (right) Impact's is nearly perfect from a surface quality standpoint. Smooth, with a little texture. Hero Forge still has a lot of surface texture, which while it didn't come through too badly in the final model after layers of paint were applied, in some places it was very noticeable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-FtTh3UFaYOIXQzEUP7bXVyc7EozLu53PDXDhAB_CN_VWIdp0KS0VUJZsuA_BgjdlMA6SYd1dcswQy6_HHo3w1GJZmLloRZC2gFIRrq-qSeftMSfk23f8OYq1yKV1Cf9OvRCJg/s1600/40+-+unprimed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="312" data-original-width="565" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP-FtTh3UFaYOIXQzEUP7bXVyc7EozLu53PDXDhAB_CN_VWIdp0KS0VUJZsuA_BgjdlMA6SYd1dcswQy6_HHo3w1GJZmLloRZC2gFIRrq-qSeftMSfk23f8OYq1yKV1Cf9OvRCJg/s1600/40+-+unprimed.jpg" /></a></div>
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Below, you can see a larger full-body comparison once the models are primed. Again, Hero Forge on the left and Impact Miniatures on the right.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NOgL6iYbnada3kWt8mOmp7vDmqnV72aEhtAdx8L2c5-6uU2EwYfjuAHQsePA5NpM0XofJWWxJyU6A4MJaKnie9HSL2nGdIerJs978kecQf6QVWcFQ7je_mH-Uw_i6YDZbxkvEw/s1600/41+-+primed.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="328" data-original-width="678" height="308" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2NOgL6iYbnada3kWt8mOmp7vDmqnV72aEhtAdx8L2c5-6uU2EwYfjuAHQsePA5NpM0XofJWWxJyU6A4MJaKnie9HSL2nGdIerJs978kecQf6QVWcFQ7je_mH-Uw_i6YDZbxkvEw/s640/41+-+primed.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Below, the base on the Hero Forge model (left) has those lines very visibly prominent, even after painting. Impact Miniatures' base (right) has none of those defects.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeHjJiGqIViclvIxpJZiWIy415yUggIAzx1EbwSLKfMoGzZVJHKa1uFCLLUeZWNtUja0IoNrF_RAzMY7ChdVwi9oEgeMctufYojS7S-swzDMVhxCVs_jNYJhxaoZY3yIbHC1JPw/s1600/42+-+bases.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="182" data-original-width="651" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJeHjJiGqIViclvIxpJZiWIy415yUggIAzx1EbwSLKfMoGzZVJHKa1uFCLLUeZWNtUja0IoNrF_RAzMY7ChdVwi9oEgeMctufYojS7S-swzDMVhxCVs_jNYJhxaoZY3yIbHC1JPw/s640/42+-+bases.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzpCyhs5Cc3Ufsrwahep-EgDkZ4HxnywHErymhecBMcihvpWEhfH0OXmfy9tCZ_jBkrJUIUKlwF-4pb3Bce2cjnP0mwdeYjDa_Cq26VNUsU-Uiq4lWFXlE1uvoRpOnZZjGYp_Kg/s1600/43+-+open+mouthed.jpg" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="356" data-original-width="341" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuzpCyhs5Cc3Ufsrwahep-EgDkZ4HxnywHErymhecBMcihvpWEhfH0OXmfy9tCZ_jBkrJUIUKlwF-4pb3Bce2cjnP0mwdeYjDa_Cq26VNUsU-Uiq4lWFXlE1uvoRpOnZZjGYp_Kg/s320/43+-+open+mouthed.jpg" width="306" /></a>I wanted to compare the detail in the faces, though for the photo from Hero Forge used one where the paint job was still a work in progress, so lets focus on the level of detail.<br />
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In both models, I had the mouth slightly open. With the Hero Forge model, none of the mouth detail was captured. No teeth, no inside of mouth, just a blank space. While Impact Miniatures wasn't able to capture the inside of the mouth either, they did capture most of the larger teeth detail, just not the finer bit.<br />
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You'll also notice some pegs on the side of the face of the Hero Forge model, left over from supports. Again, Tom says he never runs supports to the face.<br />
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Both miniatures had some printing flaws. With Hero Forge, (top row below) there were lots of little pegs from supports that had to be cut away. With Impact Miniatures (bottom row below) there were a few areas where supports left behind some blemishes and detail was lost.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLoF-kn1TtSU6o6IbNj6WMzlciWaUcWIctIRYVBTSOHsWZtxQtZW0_h_HUxt61gLabr-k_8A6SXHRc2Yp6FG_uJuNnD2tdPm-ID86bx4myUNKV1QjsT0k-htaopXgcUDBEACjNpA/s1600/44+-+imperfection+comparison.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="534" data-original-width="641" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLoF-kn1TtSU6o6IbNj6WMzlciWaUcWIctIRYVBTSOHsWZtxQtZW0_h_HUxt61gLabr-k_8A6SXHRc2Yp6FG_uJuNnD2tdPm-ID86bx4myUNKV1QjsT0k-htaopXgcUDBEACjNpA/s640/44+-+imperfection+comparison.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Review and Comparison Overall Reactions</span><br />
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Impact Miniatures definitely stands out as an option when getting custom 3D printing done. (Not just what you might be designing on Hero Forge.) The price and quality easily sets them apart from Shapeways and it just makes sense to use them for the final leg of your custom prints.<br />
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Yes, there's a little detail lost in a few places, but I think that as technology changes we just need to shift how we think about what we're used it. Instead of cleaning a mold line across an entire model, we're removing some of the support contact points. PLUS, these supports aren't being run through / to a piece of detail like a face.<br />
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I've mentioned above that seeing 3D printing applied to our hobby excites me and Impact Miniatures is yet another step in the right direction. I was pretty happy with what I'd received from Hero Forge, because in the context of a custom designed miniature, everything from price to quality seemed reasonable. Seeing how Impact Miniatures improves on this process in all facets was really eye opening. I'd strongly recommend their services when you're interested in performing any custom 3D printing.<br />
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Stay tuned for a post looking at the paint techniques I used while actually painting my Punk Turtle, including how I painted those jeans.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrC2Qvbrx4RqDzqqM0Y4ToPyDbn_ukt4XJsWltvkKTt3asuZDEyupI7-lufxsPmWfLoscoWmjy19QWhKJKfwgiaQ8CB_BVXF4UvXpA81SFJvL-e_HAJFvvDBPCUVcsmhDbqP_zjg/s1600/45+-+hero+forge+vs+impact.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="579" data-original-width="814" height="454" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrC2Qvbrx4RqDzqqM0Y4ToPyDbn_ukt4XJsWltvkKTt3asuZDEyupI7-lufxsPmWfLoscoWmjy19QWhKJKfwgiaQ8CB_BVXF4UvXpA81SFJvL-e_HAJFvvDBPCUVcsmhDbqP_zjg/s640/45+-+hero+forge+vs+impact.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Leave a message in the comments! Have you used either of these companies? Have you printed your own 3D miniatures? What kinds of advancements do you want to see with 3D printing as it applies to our hobby?<br />
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<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-41553550723246648882019-03-13T10:00:00.000-04:002019-03-13T10:00:04.835-04:00Bulk Renaming Photos<script src="https://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js" type="text/javascript">
</script>It's been a while since I've shared some of my blog-fu and a recent shout-out I received on <a href="https://mustcontainminis.com/2019/03/my-influencers.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Must Contain Minis</span></a> reminded me that these help the community. So, I'm happy to write another post that might assist others to share their knowledge with the community.<br />
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The tool I want to look at today is called <a href="https://www.bulkrenameutility.co.uk/"><span style="font-size: large;">Bulk Rename Utility</span></a> and no, this is an unsolicited review. Just happens to be a product I quite like. Essentially, the issue arises when I'm taking photos of a tutorial or project over an extended time and I'm using multiple cameras to do so - typically the camera on my phone and my nice digital camera, complicated further if my personal phone is almost out of juice and I'm using the camera on my work phone. So I end up with up to 3 file naming systems that my photos are saved in which are far from alphabetical on the whole.<br />
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Bulk Rename Utility will allow you to rename a folder worth of files in an instant based on certain criteria - in this case, the date the photo was taken.<br />
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<span id="goog_545871655"></span><span id="goog_545871656"></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC5NfDnwmtLihPBK4vFFD0_1dQad1NKqAk1dq2elejHvZiHQ9HzBRVrI9_YPnVTF4jER66qBTFDl9n1pYaAyG2ZNRpcQE7AqPQySTZO0f36PycXNbKiovGCalkBmKg4uP7lkkRsg/s1600/01+-+Interface.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="548" data-original-width="1013" height="346" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiC5NfDnwmtLihPBK4vFFD0_1dQad1NKqAk1dq2elejHvZiHQ9HzBRVrI9_YPnVTF4jER66qBTFDl9n1pYaAyG2ZNRpcQE7AqPQySTZO0f36PycXNbKiovGCalkBmKg4uP7lkkRsg/s640/01+-+Interface.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Downloading</span><br />
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Just <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.bulkrenameutility.co.uk/">navigate to their website</a></span> and get the software from their Download page.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIW7-zOdx-SbDDhLXcW8hDg_h9qeJa1QcVKgWpf0zHXZqmQb87F_KLDOdLDul1baDmo-Dpboq_RbH4zNtlyMFieWxnWRsIWTAUMb8CvDzfKimxrCgRaoOdE40S6gCIJjFLlCE_Zg/s1600/00+-+Download.fw.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="496" data-original-width="758" height="418" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIW7-zOdx-SbDDhLXcW8hDg_h9qeJa1QcVKgWpf0zHXZqmQb87F_KLDOdLDul1baDmo-Dpboq_RbH4zNtlyMFieWxnWRsIWTAUMb8CvDzfKimxrCgRaoOdE40S6gCIJjFLlCE_Zg/s640/00+-+Download.fw.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Setup</span><br />
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Once installed, you'll need to configure the settings.<br />
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FYI, once you have it setup, there's a save/load settings option under the file menu. This way you don't have to set everything up again if you install it on another computer or reinstall your PC.<br />
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<b>1. Enable extracting photo data.</b><br />
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Renaming Options > ID3/Exif Data > CHECK Extract Exif Data (Photos)<br />
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Note, you need to make sure the date is correct on all the devices you take pictures with. On phones, this is a given, but you'll need to set it on any digital cameras you might use. Get the time as close as possible incase you're switching between devices within a matter of minutes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcwOuDZ7ApbkDaNqWm6UOpEhb4CNGmkQjpDc3Z4aR_Ze-Chi0K1ZW3NUQKUV3_qoI0SA0e7kPTAm7grJ1o9ltpt_UyL64o5Hw7Im_0_RwaAkZvq1VMJFmDme7Zr0LBuxmSyLAfWw/s1600/02+-+Extract+Photo+Information.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="175" data-original-width="712" height="156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcwOuDZ7ApbkDaNqWm6UOpEhb4CNGmkQjpDc3Z4aR_Ze-Chi0K1ZW3NUQKUV3_qoI0SA0e7kPTAm7grJ1o9ltpt_UyL64o5Hw7Im_0_RwaAkZvq1VMJFmDme7Zr0LBuxmSyLAfWw/s640/02+-+Extract+Photo+Information.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJaayYSjzJleEnssO3OTED3Z9BtLlJJLSQoVRc-VQccxi9MSXqyPtNGYUUoAjGDU7Z-PQURJF_QHQ-fonobeH2zyiweNyGYg5GjUL5LpAKivzvxG7hBYt-K1Dd-VXPoACPPKUe5g/s1600/03+-+Date+and+Folder.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="234" data-original-width="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJaayYSjzJleEnssO3OTED3Z9BtLlJJLSQoVRc-VQccxi9MSXqyPtNGYUUoAjGDU7Z-PQURJF_QHQ-fonobeH2zyiweNyGYg5GjUL5LpAKivzvxG7hBYt-K1Dd-VXPoACPPKUe5g/s1600/03+-+Date+and+Folder.PNG" /></a><b>2. Renaming Options</b><br />
<br />
There's a bunch you can configure here, the following are just the settings I use.<br />
<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Name - Remove</li>
<ol>
<li>Removes the file name completely</li>
</ol>
<li>Append Folder Name</li>
<ol>
<li>I append the folder name as a Prefix. (Beginning of Filename) This works if the folder you save your project / tutorial photos in is descriptive enough.</li>
</ol>
<li>Auto Date</li>
<ol>
<li>I add the date as a Suffix (End of Filename) From the "Type" dropdown, you'll see I use the "Date Taken" pulled from the photo's EXIF data.</li>
</ol>
<li>Filters</li>
<ol>
<li>Mask for all file types.</li>
<li>Check for Files only.</li>
</ol>
<li>Special</li>
<ol>
<li>Change File Timestamps.<br />This is totally optional, but I like having the created date match when the photo was taken, instead of when the file was copied to your computer.<br />When you check this, you'll get the second prompt pictured below. Set the "Date Created" to "Date Taken".</li>
</ol>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVMNG3yELMuDnvneAFi9iUDRqFqp77VDqstYukZ3X3ADH2KJqdJ1IGKU53PfW8K19om-EN8PImVcDcHEGVhJFNyNFGQWDtg0FMa2-Xgamgwd48MtqeMxPms3QgnP9GuDF_wnf8g/s1600/04+-+Name+Filters+Special.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="309" data-original-width="676" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHVMNG3yELMuDnvneAFi9iUDRqFqp77VDqstYukZ3X3ADH2KJqdJ1IGKU53PfW8K19om-EN8PImVcDcHEGVhJFNyNFGQWDtg0FMa2-Xgamgwd48MtqeMxPms3QgnP9GuDF_wnf8g/s640/04+-+Name+Filters+Special.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyVg5twenyI2NRU3LboKKzky4kNoWm8G234KVS0hebuKDVLM-tZlI1uOG5x7w9JatAOOjeKpfKXMk53qeXWGY7KzaNgGgvowvJC9VipJuMYTmgheS2Rj3viSWA7BFHsB_c4Ij1og/s1600/05+-+Timestamps.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="541" data-original-width="370" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyVg5twenyI2NRU3LboKKzky4kNoWm8G234KVS0hebuKDVLM-tZlI1uOG5x7w9JatAOOjeKpfKXMk53qeXWGY7KzaNgGgvowvJC9VipJuMYTmgheS2Rj3viSWA7BFHsB_c4Ij1og/s400/05+-+Timestamps.png" width="272" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Bulk Rename Files</span><br />
<br />
Once you have everything configured, you can select all the files in the folder, or just the ones you want to rename. (Standard CTRL click to select additional files, SHIFT click to select a whole list and CTRL + SHIFT click to select addition list of files.)<br />
<br />
Then, click the [RENAME] button<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbTRIFhmYBRJMpniJdm4K6LUsw3pQER4aSLnGJnx3Kg0hiKvo9NVRnXpMOvrZ43krCW6TLSwrRYD9SdTxekJ8KLiCIolCrL9P8yC6afl8eHdtFYXEWCsFJfp3bGHRq5KRM85K7Q/s1600/06+-+Rename.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="117" data-original-width="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtbTRIFhmYBRJMpniJdm4K6LUsw3pQER4aSLnGJnx3Kg0hiKvo9NVRnXpMOvrZ43krCW6TLSwrRYD9SdTxekJ8KLiCIolCrL9P8yC6afl8eHdtFYXEWCsFJfp3bGHRq5KRM85K7Q/s1600/06+-+Rename.png" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdLFx8B7YooDG-AZYF_tv79TAQnsc922BfjmBUXTinui3J-eAJ-Eav3HmZW3IfvRyc4YZf1TF5EfqQD52rEqMIpOE2rnwDghyDSPbV61jyLXQXYqLsdyXsUE5D3yxHjQBt_uShA/s1600/07+-+Rename+Complete.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="268" data-original-width="505" height="168" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkdLFx8B7YooDG-AZYF_tv79TAQnsc922BfjmBUXTinui3J-eAJ-Eav3HmZW3IfvRyc4YZf1TF5EfqQD52rEqMIpOE2rnwDghyDSPbV61jyLXQXYqLsdyXsUE5D3yxHjQBt_uShA/s320/07+-+Rename+Complete.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
You'll end up with something like pictured below, with photos from different sources named similarly.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepYTigs1JjvC_NzZeIVXiIJgeC-aeNe7ZnWEhxT7ul14YyUGPBPmBEUZ8V8Fk5ubNeq1a7oKllXS-7xv-bdRk50EJFnjINUN8wi48mSxZrk-2JqGEmXL0rOqa0j9-rfA_HosfOg/s1600/08+-+Explorer.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="407" data-original-width="545" height="476" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiepYTigs1JjvC_NzZeIVXiIJgeC-aeNe7ZnWEhxT7ul14YyUGPBPmBEUZ8V8Fk5ubNeq1a7oKllXS-7xv-bdRk50EJFnjINUN8wi48mSxZrk-2JqGEmXL0rOqa0j9-rfA_HosfOg/s640/08+-+Explorer.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
The way I work, I'll then create a folder called "source" and move all the named original files there, before I start editing, cropping, merging, photo manipulating, etc.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5NzW6eA_hh6lMVmAMuiKXKFngU316WEVH36pgGbebzcx1eluduqk1objM8zPQt7UDLfpxZdAB8sPYwrCHVHhgnUdM42V6PPbbTEIpNH_qS2PnEkQ6Th0RxlrBw18vYVjAMn1XA/s1600/09+-+source.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="128" data-original-width="470" height="174" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz5NzW6eA_hh6lMVmAMuiKXKFngU316WEVH36pgGbebzcx1eluduqk1objM8zPQt7UDLfpxZdAB8sPYwrCHVHhgnUdM42V6PPbbTEIpNH_qS2PnEkQ6Th0RxlrBw18vYVjAMn1XA/s640/09+-+source.PNG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-73802056285148942252019-02-20T10:00:00.000-05:002019-02-20T10:00:05.975-05:00Hobby Holder Review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii75OHQVoXLTRiPcyjyt5IRBHEAWgCZolNbKO8DEqXYJiQLBxZz7g5QlhALS6hfye9-OQO0tXHBOzohgk2XFzZwNMnVkdqXeo7WJ62FElrJ38k2_os6H5_VZBK6eUiVKpzp9ddqA/s1600/01+-+Title.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="443" data-original-width="888" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii75OHQVoXLTRiPcyjyt5IRBHEAWgCZolNbKO8DEqXYJiQLBxZz7g5QlhALS6hfye9-OQO0tXHBOzohgk2XFzZwNMnVkdqXeo7WJ62FElrJ38k2_os6H5_VZBK6eUiVKpzp9ddqA/s640/01+-+Title.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
A little while back there was a conversation in a thread on Facebook about different types of holders for miniatures. Actually, I think it was specifically directed toward the offering from another company and Kit, the creator of the Hobby Holder reached out to show why his was better.<br />
<br />
Now, <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://gameenvy.net/">Game Envy</a></span> has just wrapped up their Kickstarter for some additions to their original <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://gameenvy.net/the-hobby-holder/">Hobby Holder</a></span>, but if you like what you see here you can still pre-order the accessories as a <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://thehobbyholder.backerkit.com/hosted_preorders">late pledge</a></span>.<br />
<br />
I'd love to hear in the comments about what you think of the product if you have any experience with it or are looking forward to receiving your own!<br />
<br />
<i>Disclaimer: I was sent this for free in order to review it.</i><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPSwT5JEdj-4PyPUuTo2yo5DYm-SEMvEPfMpX-tqOc8T_k7xrNFcLr3mhyphenhyphenbZfzxqXeun1cPik3-xkjgtCBsdKYKmW23zrOjAOm20BSPe__FRM9IskSc8fYSUJni06Hixq9jv-Uxw/s1600/02+-+packaging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="565" data-original-width="568" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPSwT5JEdj-4PyPUuTo2yo5DYm-SEMvEPfMpX-tqOc8T_k7xrNFcLr3mhyphenhyphenbZfzxqXeun1cPik3-xkjgtCBsdKYKmW23zrOjAOm20BSPe__FRM9IskSc8fYSUJni06Hixq9jv-Uxw/s320/02+-+packaging.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: x-large;">Unpacking</span><br />
<br />
Starting out, the holder comes in pretty straight forward packaging.<br />
<br />
<b>Contents:</b><br />
<ul>
<li>Hobby Holder with reversible brace.</li>
<li>3 lids.</li>
<li>Blue-Tac</li>
<li>A pin! (which ended up on my skirmish pack.)</li>
</ul>
<div>
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<div>
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<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ8vCspKMgU2-nDNd9EZeMvISgQJ7rVFEwAuXR3UU2NaTc2TC2mxpgxNp17sg7UWrvIwLBsVpoKAhVdR8fVnH4geUyaiKAk5EHHNks5C04JBJ3oxPhio8D9HflG4KKWBoVSKLIsQ/s1600/Screenshot+2019-02-17+at+15.38.01.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="258" data-original-width="610" height="270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQ8vCspKMgU2-nDNd9EZeMvISgQJ7rVFEwAuXR3UU2NaTc2TC2mxpgxNp17sg7UWrvIwLBsVpoKAhVdR8fVnH4geUyaiKAk5EHHNks5C04JBJ3oxPhio8D9HflG4KKWBoVSKLIsQ/s640/Screenshot+2019-02-17+at+15.38.01.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
The bottle caps are a unique way of holding miniatures, that's for sure. You just smoosh up some blue-tac and stick your object to the cap. This way, you can have a number of caps with figures and not have to worry about touching the paint as your screw them on and remove them from the Hobby Holder.<br />
<br />
I'll be honest, my main worry with this method of holding miniatures while painting was that they would fall off. In the past, I've used corks and actually super glued the figures to them.<br />
<br />
Gotta say that I was pleasantly surprised at how firmly the blue tac held. There was zero wiggle whatsoever.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZKgf5XGsBX2FdtQzN4q4YetRpq2hUoqz7p1tgCtl0LXUcWWo_0CfUtJgJLaOY9qOPci6OeBEZMILDFzhvzCLppLNsSy7VvGeWrZlaKsX00_t6mha3eZUnZIq_fH2KM6HuW_NDdA/s1600/03+-+usage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="877" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZKgf5XGsBX2FdtQzN4q4YetRpq2hUoqz7p1tgCtl0LXUcWWo_0CfUtJgJLaOY9qOPci6OeBEZMILDFzhvzCLppLNsSy7VvGeWrZlaKsX00_t6mha3eZUnZIq_fH2KM6HuW_NDdA/s640/03+-+usage.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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What I found interesting was the versatility of the holder, just by having that extra support on the side. It came naturally. I have a bad habit of bracing a finger on top of or on the side of a miniature while I paint. It's not uncommon that I'm using gesso to touch up bare metal and repainting tops of heads or sides of arms. The support arm organically gave me somewhere else to brace while I painted.<br />
<br />
Since it clamps on, you can also use it as a holder (pictured below in the top-left) but I wasn't much a fan of that. It's too thin to use like that. BUT, in their recent Kickstarter / Pre-order, a full handle is available.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9T2vu69sbUU-9Nl88_6o6zV2EeWAnQK_vBS5cR7BUpxidBuL6aSl6JjjnMRjoB_bSfMux4hQqSFPJ3z1UMOZcMZUusWOBFyYzx8VdxWfg0aYG_ep_Nh-CVtiVdfNLDTirOtayw/s1600/04+-+ways+to+hold.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="468" data-original-width="702" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgi9T2vu69sbUU-9Nl88_6o6zV2EeWAnQK_vBS5cR7BUpxidBuL6aSl6JjjnMRjoB_bSfMux4hQqSFPJ3z1UMOZcMZUusWOBFyYzx8VdxWfg0aYG_ep_Nh-CVtiVdfNLDTirOtayw/s640/04+-+ways+to+hold.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I made a point of taking pictures while painting as I was noticing I was holding it in a new position.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Conclusion</span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_hpRRLCuBNK1LguyCmdFCyPKorFFkiPDHjjcfUphaO17d4eSRYI-wzToeYQs5CUzPobHrbsEfTe2NIq-Exrc6eDiORF0Sb_bFvKPT1eHsWlFmA8iGAkLV14LHuq1RPDKmklGdxw/s1600/05+-+imrpovements.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="469" data-original-width="514" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_hpRRLCuBNK1LguyCmdFCyPKorFFkiPDHjjcfUphaO17d4eSRYI-wzToeYQs5CUzPobHrbsEfTe2NIq-Exrc6eDiORF0Sb_bFvKPT1eHsWlFmA8iGAkLV14LHuq1RPDKmklGdxw/s320/05+-+imrpovements.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
The Hobby Holder is a straight forward tool that fits into anyone's hobby area. It provides a versatile stand while painting any miniature with a rotatable arm to support yourself while painting.<br />
<br />
While I'm a fan of the Citadel holders, they require a base for the miniature to be mounted to. I used one of the cars I've been working on for Gaslands in this review to demonstrate it works for anything.<br />
<br />
If I had some criticisms for it, it's that the very smooth plastic makes the tool comfortable but causes some problems with fingers slipping when holding and propping on it. My thumb never slid off the bottom of it, but it felt a little unstable. As a fix I might even try gluing a circle of leather or other anti-slip substance to the bottom. An improvement I'd also recommend would be a small dimple in the arm, around where I've circled in the photo. This would give a lower area to rest a finger as well.<br />
<br />
Overall, the Hobby Holder definitely stands out as a useful tool to add to your collection. If you've been using an alternative like the Citadel Holder or gluing / sticking to an object like a cork, you may find you appreciate having an additional arm. It was nice to have the added support and not worry about rubbing on the paint.<br />
<br />
Take a look at the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://gameenvy.net/the-hobby-holder/">Hobby Holder</a></span> on their website or if you're interested, consider <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://thehobbyholder.backerkit.com/hosted_preorders">pre-ordering the new one</a></span> that includes things like the additional handle.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwQVGub_vHGFLj1kiJjqDO3TSvUZBJSQ2BPIYRacXZknWC6P82rTgAFJVHLI1ycatVsmKwArB7RgVMDOnzndBTL-6bDTeAwW1olO4GwK-fPSCFiT6MZFeYEeuAjfnUZEL3_yV6Q/s1600/5cfed50aa3f28669f92848e844c50d04_original.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="315" data-original-width="560" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwQVGub_vHGFLj1kiJjqDO3TSvUZBJSQ2BPIYRacXZknWC6P82rTgAFJVHLI1ycatVsmKwArB7RgVMDOnzndBTL-6bDTeAwW1olO4GwK-fPSCFiT6MZFeYEeuAjfnUZEL3_yV6Q/s640/5cfed50aa3f28669f92848e844c50d04_original.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-43872693619593599942019-01-16T10:00:00.000-05:002019-01-16T10:00:05.893-05:00Frankenstein's Bust<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkg30X-7BmuC97ozcAH5Ys5w2gqImiBqiZOkGSYhpIr8xylcF46oiXQqz0Nz0RpUb6uSa0avTOPo4b8YKyWOCD4_Gf2eGfnhvEoT_mg-RUEuEtIuZ42p_DjWhHQEnbHrpV8-UxQ/s1600/41+-+Frankenstein+Bar.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="168" data-original-width="641" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfkg30X-7BmuC97ozcAH5Ys5w2gqImiBqiZOkGSYhpIr8xylcF46oiXQqz0Nz0RpUb6uSa0avTOPo4b8YKyWOCD4_Gf2eGfnhvEoT_mg-RUEuEtIuZ42p_DjWhHQEnbHrpV8-UxQ/s640/41+-+Frankenstein+Bar.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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This past spring was the 200th anniversary of the novel Frankenstein and our local library system celebrated it in a number of ways. As the Artist at Work that month and them wanting to promote their 3D printing services, I decided to paint a Frankenstein Monster bust... which was also my first time painting a bust and a neat experience.<br />
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In this article I'm going to briefly talk about the demo experience, then some 3D printing, painting the bust and finally mounting it to a plinth.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidBqPLMIEvyjde76LzlyyDJ-3t5yJquGVkIElB5giB6vsyJBzEwNAvcatOXj-PzgUHK15UHm_CDDcrgj22wlZj7EjfGiFjWZ_q0SpKyAPzfdUL_sWarH6GCf1NLEx_7KprY0wrSw/s1600/10+-+Workshop.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="601" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidBqPLMIEvyjde76LzlyyDJ-3t5yJquGVkIElB5giB6vsyJBzEwNAvcatOXj-PzgUHK15UHm_CDDcrgj22wlZj7EjfGiFjWZ_q0SpKyAPzfdUL_sWarH6GCf1NLEx_7KprY0wrSw/s640/10+-+Workshop.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Artist at Work</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjZWXQOavemhteWiRK0tSP3f2V4efBcqlFRd5RDlqg2o-_hVyXRQTc1xOQ_QOdh9-aol5OW79suluOJ4Tv4zJeJHQTskTqbKG97jOe28CwhnDnNZxhOIxC8kjRWupj10ZNwj8iXQ/s1600/12+-+Workshop+Side.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1050" data-original-width="986" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjZWXQOavemhteWiRK0tSP3f2V4efBcqlFRd5RDlqg2o-_hVyXRQTc1xOQ_QOdh9-aol5OW79suluOJ4Tv4zJeJHQTskTqbKG97jOe28CwhnDnNZxhOIxC8kjRWupj10ZNwj8iXQ/s320/12+-+Workshop+Side.png" width="300" /></a>The experience itself was pretty nice. I setup a little display of miniatures with a range of styles covering both things I painted ages ago and these days. The demo took place on 2 different weekends last 2 hours each time. The first was held at their main branch with a second at another one of their branches.<br />
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I spent the time painting, yes.. but also discussing what it is we do with people who either wandered by or pulled up a chair. We talked about painting, the hobby and what the miniatures are used for, <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/07/in-beginning_02.html">how I got started painting miniatures</a></span>, how they or their kids can get started and the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/search/label/Maker%20Expo">Maker Expo</a></span> events I've taken part in. I even spoke to someone about a digital boardgame he wanted to promote and was curious about using miniatures at conventions.<br />
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It's always neat to see how people from all aspects react to our hobby.<br />
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Also got to sign their, uh, tarp.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">3D Printing (and Preparing) a Bust</span><br />
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Always fun messing around with 3D printers.<br />
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The model itself is free from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1836083<br />
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Which I downloaded and imported into the 3D printing software. 3D printers will often have recommended software for them. They can import most standard 3D model formats you'll get from these public sites and if not you can usually find a converter.<br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>The software will take the model and do a couple key things - first, it lets you scale the model to whatever size works for you. It also lets you choose the "infill" setting because you don't need a solid brick of a print; usually some form of light honeycomb on the inside is fine. Finally, it tells the printer how to print it.</i><br />
<i>Another note is that printing services like Shapeways don't have infill settings. They'll print whatever you send them so you'll want to manually hollow models out to save printing costs.</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8M2RYFJKdyu-hSdLFke89HDTidhaQVRshyphenhyphenJl1WjnbUEGc6yeot1xaohvrlaQ2eIiIiuzaEvucHLYwiFk7a1bDgIcBVOPvomM_iPEuW1ylbB7NOXTAA4R7K4fvnK49iNh9TfCCJw/s1600/01+-+3D+Model.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="472" data-original-width="628" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8M2RYFJKdyu-hSdLFke89HDTidhaQVRshyphenhyphenJl1WjnbUEGc6yeot1xaohvrlaQ2eIiIiuzaEvucHLYwiFk7a1bDgIcBVOPvomM_iPEuW1ylbB7NOXTAA4R7K4fvnK49iNh9TfCCJw/s320/01+-+3D+Model.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOoarI8F_RfG7WlpDniHqcvD7TVf_At38JJg7lXSnuGWHNbbRxQB-eT9y2oNeB3LAYSx3oYzt4hPTNl36bjfahK4_88WkVYmzI93sI02WQ1cWXCRSsS754DxGojMnuSrN6OfZ7Nw/s1600/02+-+Printed.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="400" data-original-width="360" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOoarI8F_RfG7WlpDniHqcvD7TVf_At38JJg7lXSnuGWHNbbRxQB-eT9y2oNeB3LAYSx3oYzt4hPTNl36bjfahK4_88WkVYmzI93sI02WQ1cWXCRSsS754DxGojMnuSrN6OfZ7Nw/s320/02+-+Printed.png" width="288" /></a></div>
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You'll notice the final product isn't perfect, for a few reasons:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Visible lines from each layer that's printed.</li>
<ul>
<li>This is the most obvious and the thing you're looking for when determining the quality of the final print. The higher the resolution of the printer, the less visible the lines will be. However, it'll also cause the print to take a lot longer.<br /><i>New technologies, like high resolution liquid printing, does away with most visible printing defects as you can read about in a review I wrote <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/11/review-hero-forge-custom-miniatures.html">here</a>.</i></li>
</ul>
<li>Supports</li>
<ul>
<li>Since it prints a layer at a time, when major parts jut out, like his chin and shoulders, supports are required to create a starting point to print from. These'll need to be cut off and cleaned like you might a mold line.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglp0j86Xk7eKfubSvq7bwqN7JzpicdGIPzegExH3oI4a3K_Ii7le2EkmRfULrOGxXOT4LF2ZOYOnMzhqpFWVHuJKU73L8E0nEhIk8Gc502fcWOgZuJQ0Ev3QV4Ewxmzk-rkUvC7w/s1600/03+-+Cleaning+Up.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="653" data-original-width="1331" height="312" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglp0j86Xk7eKfubSvq7bwqN7JzpicdGIPzegExH3oI4a3K_Ii7le2EkmRfULrOGxXOT4LF2ZOYOnMzhqpFWVHuJKU73L8E0nEhIk8Gc502fcWOgZuJQ0Ev3QV4Ewxmzk-rkUvC7w/s640/03+-+Cleaning+Up.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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To get the 3D printed model ready, I take the following steps:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Peel off the raft from the base of the whole bust.</li>
<li>Cut off the supports.</li>
<li>Clean the lines off that connected the supports to the bust.</li>
<li>I also glued a 30mm base to the bottom so I could hold the bust in the GW miniature holder while painting. (Not Pictured)</li>
</ol>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting the Bust</span><br />
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I won't cover this in too much depth as that's not the main part of this tutorial. There are a few things I want to note:<br />
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<ol>
<li>I feel I approached this really artistically. What I like about it is painting it in two different colour palettes - first with darker greens into near-whites, followed by mid-tone greens into yellow highlights.</li>
<li>When you look at the final photos, aside from the fact that right now you know this to be 3D printed, it's not completely obvious. The detail lines start to disappear as the painting on the bust is completed - not physically, but your mind stops focusing on them.</li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwQkqWsFDKBqUrOh-R-6ZzZ3ZT1KofDVZAlD6MDKHaQpBe2VkebgFxMmQktf5oIzlCrdaUe_zoAgaRFDqkA-EG1FIMBhMl7sM6maODhd9pNam54jcKeUW6W5J_JChqZK85AWivg/s1600/20+-+painting.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="830" height="462" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwQkqWsFDKBqUrOh-R-6ZzZ3ZT1KofDVZAlD6MDKHaQpBe2VkebgFxMmQktf5oIzlCrdaUe_zoAgaRFDqkA-EG1FIMBhMl7sM6maODhd9pNam54jcKeUW6W5J_JChqZK85AWivg/s640/20+-+painting.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh02R_ERVOW4QSQ5HyghIuO5oESR6hjSbu0O8eC3_ylZIFuapdtFvXDl3fs2_a1jjjbV5ZD7ZfQQHIkoC8btUh-wm9dq4cKx1CNxHKO1Jns9B7tMhuWanXoYMDir2GWHpYK7Iixmg/s1600/21+-+cleanup.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="600" data-original-width="547" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh02R_ERVOW4QSQ5HyghIuO5oESR6hjSbu0O8eC3_ylZIFuapdtFvXDl3fs2_a1jjjbV5ZD7ZfQQHIkoC8btUh-wm9dq4cKx1CNxHKO1Jns9B7tMhuWanXoYMDir2GWHpYK7Iixmg/s320/21+-+cleanup.png" width="291" /></a>As a final step to painting, before mounting on the plinth, I also peel off the base that was holding him, clean off the glue and finish painting the underside in black.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Green Stuff World Plinths</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wbAInOJ-SG1DSZxv6Ug-TVKeXd0Zgcsyn26CpkH7qkEfL8DLXdbr9PC0-vPnqh0JW6IFbUoeqVMJj5eNLZNRsoSFKIew8bY4x9V2OXrfGgTmMDGU9G0JyDnktKFkj-iNMScmIA/s1600/31+-+Blemishes.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="731" data-original-width="819" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6wbAInOJ-SG1DSZxv6Ug-TVKeXd0Zgcsyn26CpkH7qkEfL8DLXdbr9PC0-vPnqh0JW6IFbUoeqVMJj5eNLZNRsoSFKIew8bY4x9V2OXrfGgTmMDGU9G0JyDnktKFkj-iNMScmIA/s320/31+-+Blemishes.png" width="320" /></a>I picked my plinths up from Green Stuff World, which you can take a look at <a href="http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/180-display-plinths">here</a>. The packaging for them is pretty good and from a quality standpoint, they're not bad. Some minor imperfections, but nothing too noticeable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptl3g5OyZjravzu-o1gz7PqRA1n9I1E7LgfIuRswgWYU5FLNomSlrHOfjTIE3zcROeqCHSZb2pp4xeC3YzSRfM4UBHoZcjbrlvERgQQu_6acOMyYXaQIROQMqatfhu0w7SS8WBw/s1600/30+-+Plinth.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="448" data-original-width="942" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiptl3g5OyZjravzu-o1gz7PqRA1n9I1E7LgfIuRswgWYU5FLNomSlrHOfjTIE3zcROeqCHSZb2pp4xeC3YzSRfM4UBHoZcjbrlvERgQQu_6acOMyYXaQIROQMqatfhu0w7SS8WBw/s320/30+-+Plinth.png" width="320" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Mounting the Bust</span></div>
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Definitely could've done this before painting, and I think in the interest of protecting the bust, I would in the future. </div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Drill the Mounting Hole</span></div>
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<ol>
<li><b>Find the right drill bit</b></li>
<ol>
<li>You'll need to get a drill bit so the plinth's pin will fit nicely in the bust. You can either take the pin and determine it's size on a drill-sizing tool or go through your drill bits until you find one that fits in the plinth's hole.</li>
</ol>
<li><b>Drill the hole</b></li>
<ol>
<li>Start by testing the bust over your plinth to figure out positioning.</li>
<li>Mark where you want to drill.</li>
<li>Test the mark to double check this is where you want to drill.</li>
<li>Drill the hole.</li>
<ol>
<li>If you're concerned about drilling too deep, approximate how deep you can drill and wrap some masking tape around the drill bit. Then, stop drilling when you reach the tape.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibf4QO71qRFimJLQrz-FrU2zEjvbu6c0oSwTwSfQWRcNApybCisgynMjG77VHo6kjKZsPF8CUX7J_TuPNq1v5rOKNi_hgWr8ULNdbwdt8MZsVG0h5z-6PMnS4_stmz9iqLv30dng/s1600/32+-+Drilling.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="696" data-original-width="776" height="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibf4QO71qRFimJLQrz-FrU2zEjvbu6c0oSwTwSfQWRcNApybCisgynMjG77VHo6kjKZsPF8CUX7J_TuPNq1v5rOKNi_hgWr8ULNdbwdt8MZsVG0h5z-6PMnS4_stmz9iqLv30dng/s640/32+-+Drilling.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImAnp3agmdGctQ7sMyYfmZFzSaBep42S8cPII8XN9ifNQXs2vMCy5Gv5nVvyeSWJ5_9Zze0rFjeLHZYpn-ab2K7VkPME_6HzljDV3nawq4YNpbyAMc9-G_N2rn9CqvtXEygVa5A/s1600/33+-+Fill+and+Stick.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="582" data-original-width="447" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgImAnp3agmdGctQ7sMyYfmZFzSaBep42S8cPII8XN9ifNQXs2vMCy5Gv5nVvyeSWJ5_9Zze0rFjeLHZYpn-ab2K7VkPME_6HzljDV3nawq4YNpbyAMc9-G_N2rn9CqvtXEygVa5A/s320/33+-+Fill+and+Stick.png" width="245" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Fill / Glue the Rod</span><br />
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So, I ended up using a filler putty to "glue" the rod in place. My reasoning for this was because the 3D printed bust has a semi-hollow lattice filler on the inside. I figured normal glue wouldn't have enough to bond to.<br />
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For a normal bust, I'd probably try super glue.<br />
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I also filed the top of the rod that'd end up inside the bust so it'd be rougher and a better surface for the filler to adhere to.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Final Photos</span><br />
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As I mentioned above, I'm really happy with how he turned out, the 3D printed lines are visible but not super obvious and I'm rather proud of the two-style painting that I applied to his skin and clothes.<br />
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<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-45895376671959202202019-01-03T10:00:00.000-05:002019-01-11T14:19:48.379-05:00The Art of Wargaming Tradecraft<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTcmr1BFX1uyqH2soGM7eOBwtxzfVO4biqq8iXT2RkilMowzvM_5AMxBmiNtenZpDg10-wWfWgwLQfN5lKzK28A0XvVBmXhrNl2GcHPCmd6hpkG03FQap7rINugSe4OwL8WdPOpw/s1600/Wargaming+Tradecraft.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="474" data-original-width="940" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTcmr1BFX1uyqH2soGM7eOBwtxzfVO4biqq8iXT2RkilMowzvM_5AMxBmiNtenZpDg10-wWfWgwLQfN5lKzK28A0XvVBmXhrNl2GcHPCmd6hpkG03FQap7rINugSe4OwL8WdPOpw/s640/Wargaming+Tradecraft.png" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
2019 will be the 9th year Wargaming Tradecraft has existed. For some reason, it seems longer than that. My painting journey certainly has been going on for much longer. I want to inspire others, that's a goal of this website - and with that I'm going to take some time today to highlight some of my previous art, personal milestones and attempts to approach this hobby with an unique eye. I'm also going to share some of my personal struggles while traveling this path in hopes to help other creators who might be struggling with their own art.<br />
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If there's one thing I seem to have a pattern of, it's painting for myself. Exaggeration is a common style for me, using brighter colours and stronger contrasts. I haven't always been totally OK with feedback I've received in the past, but much of those struggles was when I was younger and before I'd accepted that my style is going to be something I had to become comfortable with. It's always difficult to have people disagree with something you've spent a lot of effort on and put a lot of love in to. <b>Try to see the useful advice, while still being true to yourself.</b><br />
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Take from this article what you can.<br />
<ul>
<li>At minimum, there's a bunch of great photos of some of my projects over the years</li>
<li>Links to the projects and tutorials if you want to see them in detail.</li>
<li>There's some insight into my process and history.</li>
<li>I've also shared some of my thoughts and feelings as I can recall them at that point in time.</li>
</ul>
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If you'd like to see more of what I've done, read through my <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/p/projects.html">Projects</a></span> page and <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://nplusplus.deviantart.com/gallery/">DeviantArt</a></span>.<br />
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If you feel you've gotten something from reading my site for the first time or as a returning reader, all I can ask of you is please <span style="font-size: large;"><b>leave a comment</b></span> here or on <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/WargamingTradecraft/">Facebook</a></span> if something moves you or consider making a donation through <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://paypal.me/DaveGarbe">PayPal</a></span>.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Beginning</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8C3_VFs7zzspuNiuSoW2x-mp06hPzDq8hMuWT8ZoLSYNrqpoXrFa2XGFBqV6_Y7Fy_-f5Rhvx8XFXqXmjBFfMV9f9ZO2E1sfe5Dg1EIR-4i7itk7bv2xvVvWUySAI3mV0i81KdQ/s1600/skaven.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8C3_VFs7zzspuNiuSoW2x-mp06hPzDq8hMuWT8ZoLSYNrqpoXrFa2XGFBqV6_Y7Fy_-f5Rhvx8XFXqXmjBFfMV9f9ZO2E1sfe5Dg1EIR-4i7itk7bv2xvVvWUySAI3mV0i81KdQ/s1600/skaven.jpg" /></a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoDLzYbVHQc2eHQGCUrHFJ65l8YrbsjcIV1LRLxU3K5FLoquc3b_Jz-w7oOMZY2DbBiQF30diYSnyNkLdGCPIFCZZ6sgcQRybTkVpwlqhbbdsMO7fNhMMsh68oDTeACL0slscAQ/s320/orks.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="272" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvoDLzYbVHQc2eHQGCUrHFJ65l8YrbsjcIV1LRLxU3K5FLoquc3b_Jz-w7oOMZY2DbBiQF30diYSnyNkLdGCPIFCZZ6sgcQRybTkVpwlqhbbdsMO7fNhMMsh68oDTeACL0slscAQ/s320/orks.jpg" width="320" /></a>The mini to the left is a Games Workshop Skaven and is one of the first I painted in the mid 90s when I was 13.<br />
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A big thanks goes out to my parents for investing in that first box of Heroes Quest miniatures and being supportive of my younger self when he was curious about trying a new hobby. Who knew that things would spiral so far out of control and lead to something that's still such a strong passion as an adult? :) It's always interesting to see how people take to the hobby after trying it briefly at events like the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/search/label/Maker%20Expo">Paint and Takes I host at Maker Expo</a></span>. Parents - <b>encourage your children when they want to try a new hobby</b>.<br />
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Within a couple of years, at 15, I was washing shadows, dry-brushing highlights and trying my hand a blending. (Seriously, look at those horns!)<br />
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At this point, all I'm trying to do is replicate some of the images and rough tutorials in gaming books. (Keep in mind, this is before Internet had gaming resources.) I'm not exploring the art or trying to be amazing... I'm just painting miniatures. Around this time I picked up a box of roughly 100 used Ral Partha and other lead minis, for $10 at the local gaming staple, The Gamers Guild.<br />
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<b>Ah, armour and chainmail. I discovered I _loved_ chainmail. Paint it black, dry brush silver. Boom. This was the first technique I learned that I felt proud of. I painted everything I could that had chainmail. When you find something you feel good about - embrace it. Take the Win.</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjXBCx2MTTTEXvujMeB3Ew3yo8dI8nWBMO9kPEg0hSvMh0ZhXTiJRYBqRImhKXQyBsjCGpjSi37yCp_WvAgNxL0LBKPZ8SVFVzduEytBLfdoVct159E66oM4q4subGBH-fuJu7A/s1600/Epic+Eldar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="374" data-original-width="1062" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWjXBCx2MTTTEXvujMeB3Ew3yo8dI8nWBMO9kPEg0hSvMh0ZhXTiJRYBqRImhKXQyBsjCGpjSi37yCp_WvAgNxL0LBKPZ8SVFVzduEytBLfdoVct159E66oM4q4subGBH-fuJu7A/s640/Epic+Eldar.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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What am I playing during these years? Mostly Epic-scale Eldar in the games of Space Marine, Epic 40,000 and Titan Legions as well as some Warhammer Quest and Space Hulk. I chose Eldar because they looked the most "sci-fi" and I liked their sleek style.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Warhammer 40,000 - Eldar</span><br />
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The natural progression brought me in to the full scale of Warhammer 40k and battles became larger with friends that I introduced to the horrors of the 41st millennia. Photos of most of my Eldar can be found in my <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.deviantart.com/nplusplus/gallery/7469696/Painting-Sci-Fi">DeviantArt gallery</a></span>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">First Attempt</span><br />
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My first foray into Eldar was much like my attempts at Fantasy. I was just trying to paint some miniatures and replicate the images I was seeing in rulebooks. This is what I came up with.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvJGNyu7lMtLnai50TDKWYwqAH7BOxgNFYVxCoE0g34APF_wx85mSHEnijcghUFjDwPJAzb4OfRIT1q7EK3Y7nV3Y4SYJT9zGDJL75yf5ziKHWLecptOixeWFwvrlkXfxdv5C5w/s1600/d1y87cl-e30069c0-6c1e-4c18-bafd-555cbaf190b7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="733" data-original-width="1600" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnvJGNyu7lMtLnai50TDKWYwqAH7BOxgNFYVxCoE0g34APF_wx85mSHEnijcghUFjDwPJAzb4OfRIT1q7EK3Y7nV3Y4SYJT9zGDJL75yf5ziKHWLecptOixeWFwvrlkXfxdv5C5w/s400/d1y87cl-e30069c0-6c1e-4c18-bafd-555cbaf190b7.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Something made me paint my Swooping Hawks in a phoenix style though...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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I also had a weird revelation at some point that washing miniatures with a certain leather-brown made it look like sunset. My child-self really liked this and went nuts for a while washing and re-washing old miniatures to give them the look.<br />
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<b>I'm not a fan of the look in retrospect, but it was an early attempt by me where I discovered a style I liked and committed to it.</b><br />
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<b>It was also an attempt to bring a uniform appearance to an army that felt visually disjointed. </b>I love the Eldar look, but I'm not sure what a fan I am of even unit being painted SO different.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlrah0JQZT-gp6IEw5t-MwjW5weIJpeITR1OEuSihrsA5FnAy8yEq5keGW-Plnv7XLXNKUHW1c6UZQJk1NrVovE66VmnS4cxgO5XYJRtvL_U8zZxwNvraRR-NzSS3n0K9hMhQ8zw/s1600/d1y87bu-25c76b16-8eee-4c3f-ab0a-56e4ad8160e5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="663" data-original-width="1280" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlrah0JQZT-gp6IEw5t-MwjW5weIJpeITR1OEuSihrsA5FnAy8yEq5keGW-Plnv7XLXNKUHW1c6UZQJk1NrVovE66VmnS4cxgO5XYJRtvL_U8zZxwNvraRR-NzSS3n0K9hMhQ8zw/s400/d1y87bu-25c76b16-8eee-4c3f-ab0a-56e4ad8160e5.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<b>This taught me another lesson - never repaint miniatures. I was kind of disappointed in what I'd done because I lost the history of the models I'd already painted and washed again. When you paint a miniature, it represents where you were at that point in your past.</b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Return to Wargaming</span><br />
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I took some time off here and there, especially in my later high school years. I wasn't playing anymore, but I returned to painting mayyybe around college? During this time, I fell into my first real style that paved the way for the rest of my Eldar. I was still young, but proud of the fact I was maintaining clean lines, painted details and strong shadows. All the while, I was avoiding anything that could lead down the path to grimdark. I wanted miniatures that were bright, that would stand out, that embodied the science fiction of the Eldar. For one, because they're alien, they're Eldar.. for another because I hated the look of a blob of darkness that SO many other armies created at the time.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPnwL5_3aIrKgqbEjsJUH2z7ikauUc9y2V2-mnEBad8bQ6NcoKnxiVRvc5tmve3L1nVMiuw-0a8Jnn8I2VPPEP14r10C-CZAipZFwOybd9n5nWvDS8ZocsNYx_hat1sGWUmP2Ow/s1600/Eldar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="498" data-original-width="1015" height="314" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiPnwL5_3aIrKgqbEjsJUH2z7ikauUc9y2V2-mnEBad8bQ6NcoKnxiVRvc5tmve3L1nVMiuw-0a8Jnn8I2VPPEP14r10C-CZAipZFwOybd9n5nWvDS8ZocsNYx_hat1sGWUmP2Ow/s640/Eldar.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Yes, strong shadows. As I looked around, outside and well lit places, I was seeing strong shadow and not noticing much of the subtleties that light can play. This strongly influenced what I was painting and I ended up with a style that eventually received the compliment, "cartoony."<br />
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This was the first criticism I really struggled with. Nobody was saying they looked bad, but I wasn't aiming for cartoony and didn't see it until it was pointed out to me. Then, all I could see was this cartoon sci-fi army that I'd spent an uncountable amount of time building. It hurt and it shook my confidence for a long while, until I eventually embraced this as a "style" for my Eldar and got pretty good at replicating it.<br />
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<b>This crisis and introspection was what led me to start understanding what it was I wanted to get out of the hobby. Figure out the style I was after. Own it. Enjoy it. Feedback can hurt, but it's also a way to grow.</b><br />
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<b>I also realized around here that as artists, we sometimes need to paint unrealistically because our brains sometimes fool us and tell us certain images we create are fake when we use certain techniques that exist in real life. </b>(Like hard shadows for example.)<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Wargaming Tradecraft Goes Live</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8tUfsX37q3HzKYQ_p-BbLxRn5vyhTp0YIJBxfmYvpjORbjnGozfdNfjIwTBS3hfZNtEfXByGbR1_lrZTQ-ryFMCsWohN5R5LfWUDI2Tlscvzm3Ci_4sF9br1aTDPLtFMuWUR9eQ/s640/13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8tUfsX37q3HzKYQ_p-BbLxRn5vyhTp0YIJBxfmYvpjORbjnGozfdNfjIwTBS3hfZNtEfXByGbR1_lrZTQ-ryFMCsWohN5R5LfWUDI2Tlscvzm3Ci_4sF9br1aTDPLtFMuWUR9eQ/s320/13.jpg" width="320" /></a>The first miniature I painted in detail for a tutorial was an <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/07/steps-eldar-guardian.html">Eldar Guardian</a></span>. It's still very much in with my Eldar style and not great quality, but I think it laid out some basic processes fairly well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5Q4lGSQFkRPvvwn1-fD3_Ws0wAizBW_vBOeiJ078JT0BpK-NfpmCT_Yz7CH6-7OvT0x70SMNKemk6kS7_Tzu_-FgUsLxiK8O4-Vfy75uIok47ALIatBiq6o8_b9h9XlCa7_rlg/s1600/Crimson+Lance+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="216" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgI5Q4lGSQFkRPvvwn1-fD3_Ws0wAizBW_vBOeiJ078JT0BpK-NfpmCT_Yz7CH6-7OvT0x70SMNKemk6kS7_Tzu_-FgUsLxiK8O4-Vfy75uIok47ALIatBiq6o8_b9h9XlCa7_rlg/s320/Crimson+Lance+1.jpg" width="320" /></a>I also dabbled with <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/08/step-by-step-crimson-lance-space-marine.html">painting some marines</a></span> up like the Crimson Lance from Borderlands. <b>It was a quick project, very low quality because it was just something I wanted to try.</b> You'll see later I'll take that genre to the next level in a few years.<br />
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This might also be my first attempt at converting. Again, very basic, but everyone has to start somewhere.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4y_NpzTbkxQ7xNucW6jkjXi8MXczlW5pNG0fLVeOB_3ZdahwvgTYSPgVvBiXXERs9blm_yVGOEKD0RgWfZApqqv7DzHIJlQWqsP9R6DhKq2Rvbd05mWTYHi1AvV-aZi7lbLMVg/s640/final_sm_named.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="217" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp4y_NpzTbkxQ7xNucW6jkjXi8MXczlW5pNG0fLVeOB_3ZdahwvgTYSPgVvBiXXERs9blm_yVGOEKD0RgWfZApqqv7DzHIJlQWqsP9R6DhKq2Rvbd05mWTYHi1AvV-aZi7lbLMVg/s640/final_sm_named.jpg" width="320" /></a>Another miniature I broke into a full tutorial was my "<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/08/step-by-step-dungeoneer.html">Dungeoneer</a></span>". Basically a generic looking hero for use with Dungeons and Dragons. It's the first Privateer Press model I painted, before I actually played their systems. I like how I brought the fantasy look out in him and I'm very proud of how the face turned out.<br />
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<b>Not having done many faces, small accomplishments like this are a real ego boost. They're those things that kind of happen out of nowhere you can look back on and be proud of.</b><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Heroes of Dungeons and Dragons</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Cydi'm Saes</span><br />
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I created a group of heroes for a DnD campaign which was my first attempt at more blending and detail. I'm really happy with my halfling Paladin, the greys on the Cleric were tricky but I like the blend I pulled off and the Wizard... well, I'll just say the request I got from the player was that it should have the Joker's colour scheme.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM1sqIpBgEG0fY3ck3ElVdhil-EYXRHcDz3LA1zOlqW2hqzbNuT7m_ZL812suhKzVQQizrWv2_p6Hy5xVlkgXgWMmwrw5M5xeo1wphkRTSp3i8S8zgKVNLCMejrdwPgTZEFkGwRA/s1600/cydi__m_saes_by_nplusplus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="318" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM1sqIpBgEG0fY3ck3ElVdhil-EYXRHcDz3LA1zOlqW2hqzbNuT7m_ZL812suhKzVQQizrWv2_p6Hy5xVlkgXgWMmwrw5M5xeo1wphkRTSp3i8S8zgKVNLCMejrdwPgTZEFkGwRA/s640/cydi__m_saes_by_nplusplus.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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As you can see, I'm also playing with layering some water effects. This has lead to expanding my collection of gels and it's upped my effects game for sure. It also strongly highlighted how the base of a miniature is just as important as the figure itself.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Golden Demon</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqzOsS6HeI4aUxPvPqUt4KLyeQe3VKlIXDbSXJqqzB1vkMxkEP6Gic0x_XFGsSXa8v_u-ARDNanwgs2W2mOdYDwPEVT4c9xEcy6VQb5vHU-8K-zFsFJUyRkW_NnbkYPD90veZKw/s1600/harlequin_wraithlord_by_nplusplus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinqzOsS6HeI4aUxPvPqUt4KLyeQe3VKlIXDbSXJqqzB1vkMxkEP6Gic0x_XFGsSXa8v_u-ARDNanwgs2W2mOdYDwPEVT4c9xEcy6VQb5vHU-8K-zFsFJUyRkW_NnbkYPD90veZKw/s320/harlequin_wraithlord_by_nplusplus.jpg" width="254" /></a></div>
I took an amazing vacation down to Baltimore and some of the surrounding area, taking a few days to take part in Games Day. I entered two models, neither of which won, but both ended up on display as part of the Final Cut.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDLNDiAMYWK-U8-kOMsdLiVQD00hgiJ_XUKlHfSQf-tUMTMpsl80cZzMHYTZH0niNbvWTFUnbrLg8-wBjOlKxB8-O3TWemfl9VtgNKI4Oas3rd-EIGkUQUi-_HhNiYEqUh-NZhvw/s1600/terminus_alpha_by_nplusplus-d2d7nyw.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDLNDiAMYWK-U8-kOMsdLiVQD00hgiJ_XUKlHfSQf-tUMTMpsl80cZzMHYTZH0niNbvWTFUnbrLg8-wBjOlKxB8-O3TWemfl9VtgNKI4Oas3rd-EIGkUQUi-_HhNiYEqUh-NZhvw/s200/terminus_alpha_by_nplusplus-d2d7nyw.jpg" width="200" /></a>It was a real opportunity for me to break out of my previous style (Though there's still a bunch of of visible) and really try to make a serious attempt at using multiple layers and blending. The patience that goes along with putting together a project like this was intense. That Wraithlord took 626 diamonds to complete and mixing mediums like metallics and non-metallics. (I'd done a little in the past, like on my halfling above.)<br />
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This was another time that I had to deal with criticism through judging. I get my style isn't at all typical of what they're used to seeing, but I poured my heart and soul into these. The competition was stiff and some <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.sodemons.com/gd210us/01-40ksingle/index.htm">amazing stuff won</a></span> - it was awesome to see them up close too.<br />
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Part of what shook me was overhearing one of the people <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.sodemons.com/gd210us/04-40klarge/index.htm">that won</a></span> instead of my Wraithlord laughing about how he threw it together the night before but had chosen a newly released Forgeworld mini specifically for the contest and extra favour...<i> </i>So that did kind of sting and demotivated me for a while. I wish I could offer better advice from this situation, but I actually stepped away from the hobby for a while.. partially from that and partially from the intense painting leading up to the competition.<br />
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It took getting back into gaming, though with Warmachine/Hordes to rekindle my love of painting. This is one of the things I often <a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/11/avoiding-burn-out-and-hobbying-again.html"><span style="font-size: large;">recommend to people who lose their will to paint</span></a>. Game. Get those minis on the table and sling some dice!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Hordebloods</span><br />
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After moving to a new city I began to hang out and chat at the FLGS. GW was out, but Warmachine and Hordes were the scene. I'd always told myself that if I ever started a new army, it would be my show-army. I needed inspiration though and so I didn't dive in right away. While watching people play and getting to know the guys, it eventually came to me. The army of Trollbloods looked quite similar to The Horde, from Warcraft. Ideas came together pretty quickly and <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/05/hordebloods.html">I began building my army</a></span>.<br />
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I actively tried to build a style that fit the Warcraft aesthetic while adding my own flare; Soft skin and blends mixed with aggressive highlights and strong contrasts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdv3ADW2Vuh5hsRELG9RFNxrBp2OG_OfTl-Al7ZaeE9AJXe6DuOYPZBOlqmg0iWPrJBSaKMKxhWgXm0r0tQ-cLJ0GaGD0fi_Q3e-I_a3Xm1gjrpfwMC_5sWOEYM4djLMCB9as8UQ/s1600/Hordeblood.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdv3ADW2Vuh5hsRELG9RFNxrBp2OG_OfTl-Al7ZaeE9AJXe6DuOYPZBOlqmg0iWPrJBSaKMKxhWgXm0r0tQ-cLJ0GaGD0fi_Q3e-I_a3Xm1gjrpfwMC_5sWOEYM4djLMCB9as8UQ/s640/Hordeblood.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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#NAILEDIT<br />
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I've pushed myself so far while working on my Hordebloods project and used so many new supplies. Carved stone, shark teeth, turtle scutes, special effects, airbrushing, metallics, lighting, moss... The list goes on and I've written about it all.<br />
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This continues to be my primary focus among all the other projects I have going on or that I'm painting for fun. I'm feeling a little burned out of them at the moment though as I'm working on a unit of 14 guys. Large groups really are what crush the spirit when painting miniatures but there's nothing like getting back out there and playing to remind you why you paint. I can be tricky to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/11/avoiding-burn-out-and-hobbying-again.html">rekindle your spirit and avoid burnout</a></span>, but I've also written about that before.<br />
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This project has caught the eye of a few people in the Blizzard realm and I was also <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.engadget.com/2013/05/30/hordebloods-miniatures-customizer-has-wow-in-his-blood/">interviewed by WoW Insider</a></span>. (Now Engadget) That kind of stuff and feedback really makes projects super exciting.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Headshots from the Heart</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Borderlands Miniatures</span><br />
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Some friends and I put together an event we called "Headshots from the Heart" back in 2012. It was a 24-hour Borderlands-themed gaming marathon. We ended up holding it for 3 years, raising a total of $11,000 for Child's Play. MiniWarGaming sponsored me the first year so I could auction off some miniatures.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCIGk1I4ppaT1E1eiOSUYzn7V2hMqhUKKIeoVlT8qv28OIQ6wgsQal7-1PVnpITG2pcT6HX7g9jbUW7Cai9k0G_-fJ4k7SV9cpEzWexTEz7BQAqMlaOkL8JnB_z5cSgnwzeUJckQ/s1600/Headshots.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCIGk1I4ppaT1E1eiOSUYzn7V2hMqhUKKIeoVlT8qv28OIQ6wgsQal7-1PVnpITG2pcT6HX7g9jbUW7Cai9k0G_-fJ4k7SV9cpEzWexTEz7BQAqMlaOkL8JnB_z5cSgnwzeUJckQ/s1600/Headshots.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2012/05/headshots-from-heart-borderlands.html">I painted each of the characters</a></span> in the cell-shaded cartoon style from the games, mixing soft blending, dark borders and lots of shadow and highlight hatching. A few of these are still some of my favorite figures - the style really speaks to me. When you challenge yourself, everything might not look how you intended, but you'll probably still be impressed with what you end up creating.<br />
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Over the years, I've given a number of people advice on how I painted this cartoon style. I'm kind of proud of the fact that as this method of painting has gained a lot of attention this past year or so, I might be one of the early miniature artists to explore it.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Crystalline Affliction</span><br />
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My ex used to play Hordes from time to time and she asked that I use the cell-shaded style of Borderlands, applied to Legion of Everblight and the additional request that all spikes be replaced with Amethyst.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqujwjJUuNt7CkxWHJX5hUoV0Wzt6Cra5id1EpaQiD_smGZ4xVwD6OvtcFN-29NzJgUJIJHbJzSvdtLm0v29Xieri8kW7nw17ukF2ZetjKIikH92hNVVDpO10-SBD9aWVXFU3eg/s1600/final+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnqujwjJUuNt7CkxWHJX5hUoV0Wzt6Cra5id1EpaQiD_smGZ4xVwD6OvtcFN-29NzJgUJIJHbJzSvdtLm0v29Xieri8kW7nw17ukF2ZetjKIikH92hNVVDpO10-SBD9aWVXFU3eg/s400/final+02.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I only have <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2014/11/crystalline-affliction.html">Thagrosh complete</a></span> and while I absolutely looove how he turned out, won't be exploring this army further.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Heroes of Dungeons and Dragons</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Olim</span><br />
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Roughly 6 years after the first adventuring party that I painted up, came the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2017/08/adventurers-in-land-of-olim.html">next group</a></span>. The Ogryn Chef, the Gunslinger Paladin, the Orphan Rogue, Pariah Cleric and my own character, the Wizard of Questionable Morals. What a group.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCioAqFHPUibbpOtvMh2EZ6GJN30gR-ZDlSMCjSLs7gWWv-A_PJ1bdacQFDvFgyOMYhwBl1clOWMXrM-sltp3MOuNQL5TR9T-UClKA8LOlI0SLPq2ALT1X9ikMm7XWR7eAFlydKg/s1600/The+Adventurers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="293" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCioAqFHPUibbpOtvMh2EZ6GJN30gR-ZDlSMCjSLs7gWWv-A_PJ1bdacQFDvFgyOMYhwBl1clOWMXrM-sltp3MOuNQL5TR9T-UClKA8LOlI0SLPq2ALT1X9ikMm7XWR7eAFlydKg/s640/The+Adventurers.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I painted these miniatures based on their character descriptions and gave them to their players. I wasn't really trying for a specific style, though I lowered the contrast in comparison to my Hordebloods, aiming for something still very "high fantasy" while also more realistic.<br />
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I'm really happy with the composition here. I feel like the group speaks well to where my skills were at at the time. Not going full out on them, but painting a head above tabletop for sure.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Count Vlagorescu's Midnight Court </span><br />
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For <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/08/count-vlagorescus-midnight-court.html">Armies on Parade (2016)</a></span> I painted up something I'd wanted to try for quite some time - <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/search/label/greyscale">greyscale</a></span> on a larger scale. There's lots of airbrushing going on here and a splash of purple on the eyes to add a touch of colour.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikCbGJLl99KrpBUNg3xbnNvrYWDgozGcWj0Ll2X-yVoh5_lkVByOx3PVccARnPeaV6cl2FOei9vmT0uEQx1r7pbVRrq2lbnsee3uEBp1DIcmmUVnpgAEbocbphKFkyIa-6wOkfnA/s1600/14+-+All+Grey2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="374" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikCbGJLl99KrpBUNg3xbnNvrYWDgozGcWj0Ll2X-yVoh5_lkVByOx3PVccARnPeaV6cl2FOei9vmT0uEQx1r7pbVRrq2lbnsee3uEBp1DIcmmUVnpgAEbocbphKFkyIa-6wOkfnA/s640/14+-+All+Grey2.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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What was so rewarding after this project, was to take a look at the board as a whole and see this beautiful overall image.<br />
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Something I want to highlight here is the purple eyes weren't supposed to happen. Originally this was going to be a greyscale project only, but I'm a lover of contrast. <b>Be ready to allow your vision to shift.</b> As this project came together, I decided that just the black and white wasn't enough.<br />
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Also, as long as I'm labeling art styles, I think it's more accurate to say that this project is black and white rather than greyscale. My love of contrast came through again and the extremes created a bold army instead of soft grey midtones. More Sin City than black and white movie.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Core Couriers</span><br />
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So, to that note, when I started <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/02/x-wing-miniatures-core-courier-services.html">playing X-Wing</a></span>, I went with more in the range of greys. Something to blend into the darkness of space while still allowing detail to be visible. Taking some inspiration from sports cars I also accented all my ships with some bright green. (My favorite colour.)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW89HAquEirJnki7h1jXKMxcoj4Fs6ikZbYiIFGdpNOQEKnxj3nppbMlmH664t2SLHwW49RWRbqZx4hc6Fw2HuwKZ8m0LelkC2n3KyARQtbGKSMj8CA0lVj0CP63Wk5CkIle3MGQ/s1600/Core+Couriers+-+Fleet+Top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="1260" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW89HAquEirJnki7h1jXKMxcoj4Fs6ikZbYiIFGdpNOQEKnxj3nppbMlmH664t2SLHwW49RWRbqZx4hc6Fw2HuwKZ8m0LelkC2n3KyARQtbGKSMj8CA0lVj0CP63Wk5CkIle3MGQ/s640/Core+Couriers+-+Fleet+Top.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The other really fun thing about this project that I'd never done before was to write up a story for the army. A friend asked who my Scum and Villainy were, what they did? The gears in my mind started turning and a narrative came together. Click the link above to read it because I really quite enjoyed expanding my little corner of the Star Wars universe.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">One-Off Projects</span><br />
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I paint one-offs from time to time as an opportunity to break from the tedium of massive projects like my Hordebloods. They also allow me to explore painting in other styles from my usual and I take great pleasure in trying these out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqvnmMOPlQ-rUVPwWthZCXkROtzr5a3INQtp6ABiXZNq_xVmM6FE2G-WfYpKBwtI120wyUp0cMeLdZSsc8wIeB-N6Nr5oo5Ndf86Sk-yxP8-wIMeTTazWb2BcSUM4pehmsqCbrA/s640/WargamingTradecraft+-+Postapocalyptibuggy+-+Icey+Bush.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="189" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxqvnmMOPlQ-rUVPwWthZCXkROtzr5a3INQtp6ABiXZNq_xVmM6FE2G-WfYpKBwtI120wyUp0cMeLdZSsc8wIeB-N6Nr5oo5Ndf86Sk-yxP8-wIMeTTazWb2BcSUM4pehmsqCbrA/s640/WargamingTradecraft+-+Postapocalyptibuggy+-+Icey+Bush.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
A contest hosted by Massive Voodoo acted as an early opportunity to do some airbrushing. The build was a blast as well, creating a postapocalyptic vehicle, which I call the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2011/04/postapocalyptibuggy-final.html">Postapocalyptibuggy</a></span>.<br />
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The modifying was fun, though not my usual thing so it was a good challenge. It's been ages since I built a model, which was also fun to rekindle those skills.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IkGZjUzK_KVFvS9qnUtCtxLnp9p8dXQdcxgR0VSsqg7gVkY4DFW9yxrxCTxR_2x2CJtN7BOqA4wSIvu5G-QrYCDPnB06Rsl4ito4b7j6yCOQt0T1wz2W6PBxFdKxrMuMifwmUg/s1600/Dave+Garbe+-+Major-General+Isaac+Brock.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0IkGZjUzK_KVFvS9qnUtCtxLnp9p8dXQdcxgR0VSsqg7gVkY4DFW9yxrxCTxR_2x2CJtN7BOqA4wSIvu5G-QrYCDPnB06Rsl4ito4b7j6yCOQt0T1wz2W6PBxFdKxrMuMifwmUg/s320/Dave+Garbe+-+Major-General+Isaac+Brock.jpg" width="265" /></a></div>
Another year of Headshots from the Heart had me auctioning off some commission painting, which led to painting a <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2015/01/historically-accurate-miniatures.html">historical figure</a></span>.<br />
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My aim here was to nail the style you see in an oil painting. That meant smooth blends with a bit of a gloss with less obvious brush strokes.<br />
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This is another time I feel like I really brought my A-game out and managed to paint something I could really be proud of.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4MdTPV7cqy0ces_w8MYzQv4IXVF1pZBD7SVP9xyxXxZ2mZ2YAU8wLAdksk5gEC9IUWAClqtudASPPqQnCzRrnQHKVC7cCGZ4sQtH7Ja7-tPl3eQVvDS6LgpyBChR7sJAJDugTQ/s1600/AOS+Knight.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEho4MdTPV7cqy0ces_w8MYzQv4IXVF1pZBD7SVP9xyxXxZ2mZ2YAU8wLAdksk5gEC9IUWAClqtudASPPqQnCzRrnQHKVC7cCGZ4sQtH7Ja7-tPl3eQVvDS6LgpyBChR7sJAJDugTQ/s320/AOS+Knight.PNG" width="320" /></a></div>
This <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/08/non-traditional-primer-for-age-of.html">Age of Sigmar Knight</a></span> was a little something I painted for the manager of the local Warhammer store when it first opened and he moved to town. It's great to see it out on the board and catching the eye of the next generation of gamers.<br />
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Rather than accenting with dark shadows, the style I approached here was to use bright highlights. Some real obvious edge highlighting and <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/01/painting-metallics.html">mixing NMM with TMM</a></span>.<br />
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Unfortunately as the store changed hands, it disappeared. It would have been nice to have this back in my collection if they weren't using it anymore.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-s3WkvrddU6X_wQRfF-LOFISVOSzlyaPaPt7VgAsQ11nQWjQAcFdn7VOjwgf3FjOYWPsBsOqnQ2BaTgyfhP5LeA4lILKefhAz1n43-pVkFrdAdek1vP8kYA1hCZW9D7jJu4ybRg/s1600/boba_fett_miniature_by_nplusplus_dc4encr-fullview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="698" data-original-width="1024" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-s3WkvrddU6X_wQRfF-LOFISVOSzlyaPaPt7VgAsQ11nQWjQAcFdn7VOjwgf3FjOYWPsBsOqnQ2BaTgyfhP5LeA4lILKefhAz1n43-pVkFrdAdek1vP8kYA1hCZW9D7jJu4ybRg/s320/boba_fett_miniature_by_nplusplus_dc4encr-fullview.jpg" width="320" /></a>I painted up <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2017/04/boba-fett-on-floating-skiff.html">Boba Fett</a></span> for an old miniature challenge. And who doesn't like the Fett, amirite?<br />
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I stuck with softer colours, lighter blends and again it proved a nice challenge to try something new out.<br />
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I'm not super happy with the custom skiff I made, but I do like how I made it float.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33LYk6NF4AuD-8VDI5csE66BkSh0Udxg-RKoI1DVWxiXtOwp3CvbvMYgStnKwx-N-GYh1hQvauhG9Dla61ZDSaEVQR1uDMJiMjZhuASTXZ4UdXG6gRYrvSj0hj3TbFdf2jeadaA/s1600/complete+-+dark.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="438" data-original-width="746" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj33LYk6NF4AuD-8VDI5csE66BkSh0Udxg-RKoI1DVWxiXtOwp3CvbvMYgStnKwx-N-GYh1hQvauhG9Dla61ZDSaEVQR1uDMJiMjZhuASTXZ4UdXG6gRYrvSj0hj3TbFdf2jeadaA/s320/complete+-+dark.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Speaking of special effects.. I've got a lot of unique tutorials on my <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/p/techniques.html">Techniques</a></span> page. The movie Doctor Strange created some inspiration for me and while she didn't turn out quite how I would like, I definitely have better ideas if I tried to create these kinds of <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2017/06/strange-magic-part-1.html">magic effects</a></span> again.<br />
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Though I am very happy with how they turned out for this <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/04/strange-magic-part-2.html">crystal blade</a></span>.<br />
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<b>Make mistakes. Seriously, don't be afraid to. Don't just "Don't be afraid to make mistakes" - actually make them.</b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL2CqBU2JvV0A75z2VaoiskYRYxTgGmVb2ap1jM1AGjPpu0E2C2qn6IR-Rc0uHKH6aRf7eNo8HbuBI7B058CTliK2o0TeLnQz_CCG5Ia-N5dunCLHgJWcjF9fONmkyPg864aHnmg/s1600/00+-+Pit+Fighters+Collage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="571" data-original-width="1212" height="187" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhL2CqBU2JvV0A75z2VaoiskYRYxTgGmVb2ap1jM1AGjPpu0E2C2qn6IR-Rc0uHKH6aRf7eNo8HbuBI7B058CTliK2o0TeLnQz_CCG5Ia-N5dunCLHgJWcjF9fONmkyPg864aHnmg/s400/00+-+Pit+Fighters+Collage.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
A band of <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/08/mordheim-pit-fighters.html">Mordheim Pitfighters</a></span> became an opportunity for me to attempt something darker. Grimdarkier.<br />
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There are aspects of this warband I like. A lot of the skin, the carapace armour.. but I don't feel like they represent me. I dunno, they feel kind of dirty.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">2019 and Beyond</span><br />
<br />
I've had a lot going on in my personal life, so I haven't been writing or hobbying as much as I'd like to. I missed the 'Eavier Metal Secret Santa and I'm going to miss the Anonimous Bust contest though I had a great resculpt going. I've started playing Gaslands so I've got a pile of Hot Wheel cars to turn into postapocalyptic death machines... I've still got a huge list of articles I'd like to write that I compiled when I attempted a Patreon...<br />
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Who knows... right now I'm doing what feels healthy for me, which means hobbying or not and when I do, focusing on enjoying it rather than writing.<br />
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I did get a few articles written over the holidays, which did feel good. They're scheduled to post over the next month, so there's that to look forward to. As always, more of my day to day stuff is being posted on <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/WargamingTradecraft/">Facebook</a></span>.<div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
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<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-59119312754699018632018-10-26T10:00:00.000-04:002018-10-26T11:34:46.802-04:00Using Colour Shift Paints<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignKBmqiIjrspqxtJ7vhj1Ht0GY4Uu-JqEXwwk_P4Jbk3Ci0n_czHtTI8V2kyi5sRlGVCJgGJuruEYx3eW-H-FsmkDabrSwOH-GoINPYzrg-LVWXE2OcQ5kBfXC9Bklj4VLHAsmg/s1600/00+-+Title.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="235" data-original-width="485" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEignKBmqiIjrspqxtJ7vhj1Ht0GY4Uu-JqEXwwk_P4Jbk3Ci0n_czHtTI8V2kyi5sRlGVCJgGJuruEYx3eW-H-FsmkDabrSwOH-GoINPYzrg-LVWXE2OcQ5kBfXC9Bklj4VLHAsmg/s1600/00+-+Title.jpg" /></a></div>
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This post is designed to be both a tutorial and review on some of the colour shift paints available today. Many of you are familiar with <a href="http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/153-chameleon-acrylic-paints"><span style="font-size: large;">Green Stuff World</span></a>'s line, but there's also paints available from <a href="https://turbodork.com/collections/colorshift-paints"><span style="font-size: large;">Turbo Dork</span></a> which have been creating some interest in the community lately.<br />
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What are colour shift paints? Essentially they're paints that are a different colour depending on the angle you're looking at them or the way the light is hitting them. Typically you have one colour in the light and another in the shadow. You may have seen these kinds of things on sports cars or in nature like on beetles and pearls.<br />
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You can see an example below, in how the colour shifts between green highlights and purple shadows with the Martian Green paint from Green Stuff World:<br />
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<div style="height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.25%; position: relative;">
<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/23-5QValays?ecver=2" style="height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; width: 100%;" width="640"></iframe></div>
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Then how it shifts between blue and purple with TurboDork's 3D-Glasses paint:<br />
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<div style="height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.25%; position: relative;">
<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Bh_v0NYBtSs?ecver=2" style="height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; width: 100%;" width="640"></iframe></div>
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This post is two parts:<br />
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First, I'm going to cover how you're supposed to apply colour shift paints to your miniatures.<br />
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Then, I'm going to discuss some alternate Do's and Don'ts when painting with them and include unique techniques that you can use.<br />
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Finally, I'm going to summarize my feelings on the differences between the products offered by TurboDork and Green Stuff World.<br />
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<i>Full Disclosure, TurboDork sent me a few free samples for review purposes.</i><br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Using Colour Shift Paints</span><br />
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Both companies recommend the following steps. I'll be using Green Stuff World's Martian Green on a miniature and TurboDork's 3D Glasses on both miniatures and some spoons.<br />
<br />
* Note * After writing this tutorial/review, the TurboDork paints weren't quite performing as advertised, but it basically came down to application. The paint applied to the miniatures in the same was as the Green Stuff World paint did match the colour swatch on the bottle so I thought I'd done it right. I looped back and tried out the TurboDork paints again using spoons and thicker layers of paint, which created the results I was after and I'll go into detail below.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ_RQHElAho9UcRxloCTGipNljZx95_WAd73gKyeYP81_-2qucSD6FT5N7La6twWmfXS6eQI4vnlBKpEkOfRMv1ji5wj91dNPPVaLqqhZbB4FOBysL7GtKTIofGngSSI1gTC2Kew/s1600/10+-+Prepare+the+mini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="259" data-original-width="211" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJ_RQHElAho9UcRxloCTGipNljZx95_WAd73gKyeYP81_-2qucSD6FT5N7La6twWmfXS6eQI4vnlBKpEkOfRMv1ji5wj91dNPPVaLqqhZbB4FOBysL7GtKTIofGngSSI1gTC2Kew/s200/10+-+Prepare+the+mini.jpg" width="162" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">1. Prepare the Miniature</span><br />
<br />
The two key elements here are to <b>paint the miniature black</b>, then <b>apply a layer of gloss</b>.<br />
<ol>
<li>I started by airbrushing black primer.</li>
<li>Then airbrushed a few layers of Liquitex Gloss Varnish.</li>
</ol>
<div>
Using an airbrush keeps details while priming and would allow you to paint colour shift into small areas instead of the whole miniature. You could definitely pick up some gloss black primer from a hardware store or a black primer followed by gloss varnish too.</div>
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To be on the safe side, we also mixed some of the paint up real good.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSWwGWaU52QuIp9S_7N8fWBpmy4VuSt6Pi5sW-3y12xo7x4dCeWuUovrFORyuXS4VDWgqkG64u8EUL66hYEgSkvioVa3Rm4ujPsj75R3bJn6c3kJ_ASwljH4AT4BwIA8B4bKt3LQ/s1600/70+-+spoon+mixing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="367" data-original-width="600" height="390" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSWwGWaU52QuIp9S_7N8fWBpmy4VuSt6Pi5sW-3y12xo7x4dCeWuUovrFORyuXS4VDWgqkG64u8EUL66hYEgSkvioVa3Rm4ujPsj75R3bJn6c3kJ_ASwljH4AT4BwIA8B4bKt3LQ/s640/70+-+spoon+mixing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the interest of testing things out, (The IT Guy part of me has to break stuff to gain a comprehensive understanding of how stuff works. ;) I found that while you definitely want to prime the miniature black, you don't have to gloss it if you don't want to. The gloss does look better / smoother and gives you nicer gradients, but the difference isn't large enough that it's a must do.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6SRJvYp-ssRkCYH3KWUVuo5vwKI51hvQTpiC4YdDpN1cVsRNGRUFPOahjp4z6JhdQ2lFIOl6bRinN_H8ujo1x879V2hgg5WMR2kf-bFi-SL3SC_7fsoOSAis4O9lBtWLGKJfKww/s1600/13+-+Beginning+Examples.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="359" data-original-width="666" height="344" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6SRJvYp-ssRkCYH3KWUVuo5vwKI51hvQTpiC4YdDpN1cVsRNGRUFPOahjp4z6JhdQ2lFIOl6bRinN_H8ujo1x879V2hgg5WMR2kf-bFi-SL3SC_7fsoOSAis4O9lBtWLGKJfKww/s640/13+-+Beginning+Examples.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-SDjVfkgGnpTol5tuGqwaV0kbI4OmH82oAPuUoG2dv-0eNw9CDBLGiFCpP_DJieXuEmYVgUfYcRO8f_pYQ0HcC6EUXgMdvsblz0btKhRf_NXOhEkfGe8O3cw0xVrmezYQUdfKqA/s1600/11+-+Paint.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="587" data-original-width="591" height="198" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-SDjVfkgGnpTol5tuGqwaV0kbI4OmH82oAPuUoG2dv-0eNw9CDBLGiFCpP_DJieXuEmYVgUfYcRO8f_pYQ0HcC6EUXgMdvsblz0btKhRf_NXOhEkfGe8O3cw0xVrmezYQUdfKqA/s200/11+-+Paint.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">2. Paint the Miniature</span><br />
<br />
This is definitely a technique that lends best to an airbrush, but you do have the option of using a paintbrush as well. You'll notice that the wet paint will look different from the final result, so plan based on what the label looks like. It might even be a good idea to paint a test mini of your own if you plan on using these paints on show pieces.<br />
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<b>Airbrush</b><br />
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For best results, both manufacturers recommend<b> applying multiple thin layers with an airbrush</b> until you get the desired look. I still used some thinner and retarder as I usually do when airbrushing to help flow and prevent paint from drying on the needle.<br />
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In the photo below, you can see the first layer on the left and the final layer on the right of the Green Stuff World Martian Green paint. You can see that at first, you mainly just get the highlight colour while the shadows remain mostly black. After subsequent layers, things become more obvious.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBY5Ni6JjPOGqnaHmQj0-j-KkDYuH78nxlY1uCSwDGeb_zADfDSyncyo1y_TP7aW-Os_p4lLEMAYBIbkCX2sAn9_xHMLUMYff-f-Eurt4CEf8Ry6No1XiCyHI4Q76Fhx8_CB9WRQ/s1600/12+-+Start+and+Finish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="287" data-original-width="356" height="257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBY5Ni6JjPOGqnaHmQj0-j-KkDYuH78nxlY1uCSwDGeb_zADfDSyncyo1y_TP7aW-Os_p4lLEMAYBIbkCX2sAn9_xHMLUMYff-f-Eurt4CEf8Ry6No1XiCyHI4Q76Fhx8_CB9WRQ/s320/12+-+Start+and+Finish.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I discovered that with the TurboDork paints, light layers don't turn out quite as well. You still get a nice metallic finish, but not as clean and dynamic on the shift side of things.<br />
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Worth noting that the miniatures you'll see painted in this tutorial were painted with the recommendation of multiple light layers, like the spoons below, which did end up matching the colour swatch attached to the dropper bottle so I thought I'd achieved all I could.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOCAwPdQKui4ECJrRA63i9ceo7EGJqE8KEq_Wt5VkhJVoJrSsXJTqRmX6GfvChqDFi3Yeba6iIPcoJ9KQSroG9ZdinajHFiThx6NkbOIocD2_RB0Fbp7n3Xg47tn2I16qmwWYxg/s1600/71+-+light+coats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="322" data-original-width="716" height="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijOCAwPdQKui4ECJrRA63i9ceo7EGJqE8KEq_Wt5VkhJVoJrSsXJTqRmX6GfvChqDFi3Yeba6iIPcoJ9KQSroG9ZdinajHFiThx6NkbOIocD2_RB0Fbp7n3Xg47tn2I16qmwWYxg/s640/71+-+light+coats.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Left to Right, applying multiple thin layers of paint.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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Below you'll see the same 3D Glasses paint applied with a more normal to heavy coat of paint. The colour is more vibrant and the shift becomes much more obvious. This vibrancy is unfortunately missing from many of the example miniatures due to the reasons stated above.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Y6jqEMLwO9y9G6UQK4rCZ8zHvZPY-NPnIsRl5qtqwWQt6EdKIic7aeoIWpgWfiP0hQuAZt6SHoe71BcR17HANaXVA6KeKz9qgKPhojhLMFl5b9x3Mf3hs6_jbTcFMZwTBAodww/s1600/72+-+Medium+Coats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="236" data-original-width="397" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3Y6jqEMLwO9y9G6UQK4rCZ8zHvZPY-NPnIsRl5qtqwWQt6EdKIic7aeoIWpgWfiP0hQuAZt6SHoe71BcR17HANaXVA6KeKz9qgKPhojhLMFl5b9x3Mf3hs6_jbTcFMZwTBAodww/s1600/72+-+Medium+Coats.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Viewing the spoon from multiple angles after applying the 3D Glasses paint thicker.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I tried this same approach on the Green Stuff World paint, and didn't notice a dramatic difference between light coats and heavier coats.<br />
<br />
If you paint colour shift on too thick, you'll see it pool. So, like any paint, don't paint it so thick it pools in areas and you'll be fine.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTTKIvn06WeRrOMkt-B38b33GgS6TApBkmpu75Q9kKMHv8Cs41oyRUKAZsEBnqJpXWLixxRpuJCQW1qLUEL8KX8w8Qet7e7ZlXg6JtO0XVzL6Jl_G6PcRgPiNUVhCivVqOgHkyNw/s1600/73+-+Too+Thick.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="482" data-original-width="659" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTTKIvn06WeRrOMkt-B38b33GgS6TApBkmpu75Q9kKMHv8Cs41oyRUKAZsEBnqJpXWLixxRpuJCQW1qLUEL8KX8w8Qet7e7ZlXg6JtO0XVzL6Jl_G6PcRgPiNUVhCivVqOgHkyNw/s320/73+-+Too+Thick.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue Raspberry paint from TurboDork</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXVfLpWe-paklSqPGGfwGwvESrkyIsgEWdQAHkt-Le1sQQHmSBUSbwpxz-kPOZvo61xvfWeWJXhFgyl-Lw0EXQP8SM_1UqXdGtWSY6S228LQ33Mbyzs1laaVPBqPf2uFp9oSsWmA/s1600/74+-+green+stuff+world.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="202" data-original-width="385" height="167" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXVfLpWe-paklSqPGGfwGwvESrkyIsgEWdQAHkt-Le1sQQHmSBUSbwpxz-kPOZvo61xvfWeWJXhFgyl-Lw0EXQP8SM_1UqXdGtWSY6S228LQ33Mbyzs1laaVPBqPf2uFp9oSsWmA/s320/74+-+green+stuff+world.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nebula Copper paint from Green Stuff World<br />
Applied with thicker layers like TurboDork's.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<br />
<b>Paintbrush</b><br />
<br />
If you use a paintbrush, the key things to work at is to try and <b>apply uniform thin coats</b> that <b>don't pool in the recesses</b> and try to <b>keep your brush strokes in the same direction</b>. In the photo below, you'll see on the right how the paint looks wrong when it pools.<br />
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On the left, you'll see the quality isn't great compared to the photos above. That said, from a tabletop perspective, not bad. You're definitely not going to get a ton of colour shift with a paint brush.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSby8i6C6wtCeSKGqjEHArdwI-1vPCDlofHQYXVG134eYBbCi4HTqGwCvA63U0EIwZK3THpxkMYnUUDTB2JARO43EmmZ3rKncOZdDWFV3rsiAMeVOs4Z8-HT3QZ4hRgRqVNV9Jg/s1600/14+-+brushed+on.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="317" data-original-width="633" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKSby8i6C6wtCeSKGqjEHArdwI-1vPCDlofHQYXVG134eYBbCi4HTqGwCvA63U0EIwZK3THpxkMYnUUDTB2JARO43EmmZ3rKncOZdDWFV3rsiAMeVOs4Z8-HT3QZ4hRgRqVNV9Jg/s640/14+-+brushed+on.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">In Summary</span><br />
<br />
<b>For best results:</b><br />
<ol>
<li>Prime black and gloss.</li>
<li>Airbrush multiple layers.</li>
<ol>
<li>Thin layers with Green Stuff World paints.</li>
<li>Normal to heavy layers with TurboDork paints.<br />(Though they recommend thin layers - what's your experience?)</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<div>
<b>For acceptable results / tabletop quality:</b></div>
<div>
<ol>
<li>Prime black.</li>
<li>Paintbrush multiple layers, being careful of pooling.</li>
</ol>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Putting it all Together</span><br />
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I also painted up a quick demo model to see the effect in practice. Tried a darker skin tone on the face, some anime hair and NMM on the gun. I didn't highlight the armour, but I did paint black into the crevices.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEjyfAqsERFJgIcEbkaHYzRswP-1sjKg3yDt4OWidACh3kug7RcpGWGOgP94GBGKqm36RVOuAotYacBsXb9M7gN-A0hKr_qjp3wLJZUPr2240MZzCmZV6xOn2YLDEKqouaxkW5A/s1600/50+-+Final.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="542" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGEjyfAqsERFJgIcEbkaHYzRswP-1sjKg3yDt4OWidACh3kug7RcpGWGOgP94GBGKqm36RVOuAotYacBsXb9M7gN-A0hKr_qjp3wLJZUPr2240MZzCmZV6xOn2YLDEKqouaxkW5A/s400/50+-+Final.jpg" width="278" /></a></div>
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<div style="height: 0; padding-bottom: 56.25%; position: relative;">
<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EVt7A9DVvcI?ecver=2" style="height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; width: 100%;" width="640"></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">More Ways to Apply Colour Shift Paints</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Highlighting</b></span><br />
<br />
You may ask yourself how you might highlight when using these paints. It's an awkward question in general when you're working with metallics. That's a different topic though, which you can read about in my <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/01/painting-metallics.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Metallic Tutorial Index</span></a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3bnhNgVsf6RRY4C-XdZP3ZauG0GhezmUi2X05dsK1J3v7Ya7H4B4GxAR8B2AoEs_s_k9WnCfsbZv90ZzuDRMQNQr3RZp5xxd5M4MJixfJlsVstWsoH5zFFJa0R_hdYh9de8lRrQ/s1600/23+-+post+highlight.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="279" data-original-width="451" height="196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3bnhNgVsf6RRY4C-XdZP3ZauG0GhezmUi2X05dsK1J3v7Ya7H4B4GxAR8B2AoEs_s_k9WnCfsbZv90ZzuDRMQNQr3RZp5xxd5M4MJixfJlsVstWsoH5zFFJa0R_hdYh9de8lRrQ/s320/23+-+post+highlight.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Post Highlight</span><br />
<br />
In typical fashion, I've highlighted here after basing with the colour shift paints. You can see two approaches here.<br />
<ul>
<li>On the left, I've done a TMM (True-Metallic Metal) highlight using silver.</li>
<li>On the right, I've done an NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) highlight using grey. </li>
</ul>
<div>
With both, I did a little edge highlighting and dry-brushing when applying the paint. It's neat how each creates a different feel.</div>
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<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Y5GQX5FFAZg?ecver=2" style="height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; width: 100%;" width="640"></iframe></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: large;">Preshade</span></b><br />
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The other option, is to preshade. I'mmmmm actually really proud of this one - it's something I've been wanting to try since I started thinking about this post. The theory was that if colour shift only shows up on a black base, then a preshade might be the most effective way to highlight. It didn't exactly work out that way since colour shift DOES show up on a white base, just wrongly, (Like in my white-base example above.) but it still made a pretty cool effect.<br />
<br />
<b>Edge Highlighting</b><br />
<br />
The highlights here are more obvious on the base model, but turns out more subtle in the final photo.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCesTOxtUZ7rGCs2PHroWamg3b32FCOhIp8pDmlvwvioe3H4VDSFg6TDq9PQ4tMyige-nKIOlJyHsMeA7Yi9oGzkdxBJC3pmJ4VSBQ-UGAwMiiKVQtiQ05jYA8dhrEir9-ngYPhQ/s1600/21+-+sharp+preshade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="281" data-original-width="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCesTOxtUZ7rGCs2PHroWamg3b32FCOhIp8pDmlvwvioe3H4VDSFg6TDq9PQ4tMyige-nKIOlJyHsMeA7Yi9oGzkdxBJC3pmJ4VSBQ-UGAwMiiKVQtiQ05jYA8dhrEir9-ngYPhQ/s1600/21+-+sharp+preshade.jpg" /></a></div>
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To paint this, I've just used white to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/11/back-to-basics-black-primer-dark.html">edge highlight</a></span> the armour.<br />
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<br />
<b>Gradient Highlighting</b><br />
<br />
On this one, the highlight is subtle in the first image but ends up very obvious in the final one.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoSONWtqGHgSvLRqLK1IfZRrmdZeDP79cWMiOfVPNEVK57J2t-xkz4IG1SN4YxPPmR0tzk8xmAthvVWqQzZMTihfdfb6PkWd6xwWm6lTneYfHQ2G5r2jshIw8Ritq1mUnvO4Ndw/s1600/22+-+light+preshade.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="307" data-original-width="478" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivoSONWtqGHgSvLRqLK1IfZRrmdZeDP79cWMiOfVPNEVK57J2t-xkz4IG1SN4YxPPmR0tzk8xmAthvVWqQzZMTihfdfb6PkWd6xwWm6lTneYfHQ2G5r2jshIw8Ritq1mUnvO4Ndw/s1600/22+-+light+preshade.jpg" /></a></div>
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To achieve this, I airbrushed grey over the black base then washed it black, before glossing and painting. You could achieve a similar effect using <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/12/dry-brushing.html">dry brushing</a></span>.<br />
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I'm a big fan of how this one turned out. In some ways, it created an anodized / heat treated metal appearance.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Washing</span><br />
<br />
Can you wash colour shift paints? Absolutely, no different than washing other metallic paints. It adds another dimension.<br />
<br />
In the below photo, I've done the following:<br />
<ul>
<li>Base - Black Wash</li>
<li>Base stripe - Yellow Ink</li>
<li>Legs - Blue Wash</li>
<li>Upper Torso, Arms, Head - Red Wash</li>
<li>Gun - Brown Wash</li>
</ul>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WbYBwAMGRtZpa6QxyvYk6jig3AAIizjn4kFYtAmO4-quu6rBuOSqMI_GOWdBJ9Wm-LPJE5LrgNSU7Cr7FMHvwykTGijRYc2d3gIujBYUxUiaW0fXquRDeayz8AmInTof6qUzcg/s1600/31+-+washed.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="361" data-original-width="532" height="271" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3WbYBwAMGRtZpa6QxyvYk6jig3AAIizjn4kFYtAmO4-quu6rBuOSqMI_GOWdBJ9Wm-LPJE5LrgNSU7Cr7FMHvwykTGijRYc2d3gIujBYUxUiaW0fXquRDeayz8AmInTof6qUzcg/s400/31+-+washed.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Varnish</span><br />
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Pretty optional. In general, it's a good idea, but varnishing metallics always affects how things look. Not much in the way of surprises here.. Gloss has whiter larger highlights, Matte is duller and things look in between without the varnish.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAiz3QoKgMtPnPVmqXXeVIjARV6LsbfOYnlWZWUn-w-7UaqETkvbt9gRRXo4gjOc0hyphenhyphenJsXi1snNxE5K9AyX-Xdtpjeg8MM93QPgRrJTPB_N7CMHX3NlVWcZypBBwK0nsfKfDB7KA/s1600/32+-+Varnish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="349" data-original-width="592" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAiz3QoKgMtPnPVmqXXeVIjARV6LsbfOYnlWZWUn-w-7UaqETkvbt9gRRXo4gjOc0hyphenhyphenJsXi1snNxE5K9AyX-Xdtpjeg8MM93QPgRrJTPB_N7CMHX3NlVWcZypBBwK0nsfKfDB7KA/s1600/32+-+Varnish.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Other Base Colours</span><br />
<br />
You can also paint colour shift paints over other bases than black, but results are definitely going to vary. In the case of this green-primed soldier below, the metallic definitely comes through, but the colour is similar to the miniature I primed in white.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6jfyeUUHUV_6dBWe2Fobf_-Zo1HaNsZUaZy-LfKfQCJ0mVNeh9K7xkLa_Bx7_se3cNkN6B6CM9Ma_D53m4jfV7AV4_mAnuXNTGXPZhPOtJploQ4CXBGoNyAr3QRlHoiUwjLDRA/s1600/34+-+Other+Colours.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="409" data-original-width="582" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ6jfyeUUHUV_6dBWe2Fobf_-Zo1HaNsZUaZy-LfKfQCJ0mVNeh9K7xkLa_Bx7_se3cNkN6B6CM9Ma_D53m4jfV7AV4_mAnuXNTGXPZhPOtJploQ4CXBGoNyAr3QRlHoiUwjLDRA/s320/34+-+Other+Colours.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I imagine you'll need to stick with very dark shades of paint and some experimentation to pull this off.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Transparent Miniatures</span><br />
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I'd compare this result to the white-based miniature as well. You don't get the colour shift you're after and visibility becomes poor, but you do get a little light shining through.<br />
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I'm not exactly sure where you'd use this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6eOhPpJMGw8_Pf4MNlf7kOHTKYUCLemh9H2nHwUOXPIkJx_NaENaDQgc7hHo4eAN_7a5P7hGFhxnAsVxqLNvNHhBHi5y5kUGhbC5afp3C7F5yaaO1S2WMMERNawZA_upkAEGjA/s1600/33+-+Clear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="388" data-original-width="480" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-6eOhPpJMGw8_Pf4MNlf7kOHTKYUCLemh9H2nHwUOXPIkJx_NaENaDQgc7hHo4eAN_7a5P7hGFhxnAsVxqLNvNHhBHi5y5kUGhbC5afp3C7F5yaaO1S2WMMERNawZA_upkAEGjA/s320/33+-+Clear.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Review of TurboDork and Green Stuff World</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_38WjqdslCRiaUmi741b3nTR-hyvoxtiPr0i2-9evc8fDGPsaNzMjOnJIhrXiKbCkwkIfrGOTisywrwH3v0Y7oEH8tr6LGzHc-uds-bjHHTv-vdZbUFxX2nSzUoVeZg4NiWDpZg/s1600/60+-+comparisonto+website.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="430" data-original-width="302" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_38WjqdslCRiaUmi741b3nTR-hyvoxtiPr0i2-9evc8fDGPsaNzMjOnJIhrXiKbCkwkIfrGOTisywrwH3v0Y7oEH8tr6LGzHc-uds-bjHHTv-vdZbUFxX2nSzUoVeZg4NiWDpZg/s320/60+-+comparisonto+website.jpg" width="224" /></a>Both manufacturers offer good quality colour shift paints and different lines of colour so you can purchase from each depending on the style that you're after.<br />
<br />
They come in dropper bottles, which is great for direct use in an airbrush, the better way to paint with them. The paint is thin enough that details won't be obscured, even after multiple layers of paint required for the colour shift to come through.<br />
<br />
The differences I noticed between the two were:<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>TurboDork's had a smoother finish while Green Stuff World's was a little more rough.</li>
<li>This meant that TD has smoother gradients while GSW's had a little more texture.</li>
<li>You can paint easier over GSW's while I needed to paint gesso primer on before painting over TD's.</li>
<li>GSW's shade colour was easier to see and achieve while TD's was more subtle.</li>
</ul>
<br />
Neither paint turned out as vibrant as the images on their websites, though that's not to say you don't get a nice colour shift from them; you certainly do! TurboDork is planning on updating their images to present their product in a more natural environment and creating some tutorial videos as well. I've recommended they also update their instructions to suggest painting normal layers of paint and update the colour swatch on the bottles which doesn't actually display the colour shift, just metallic.<br />
<br />
Ultimately, both products offer something to us painters. Colour shift paints add a new dynamic to the miniatures we're creating and I'm excited to apply them to full projects, of which I already have two in mind where I'm planning on using them. For best results, I definitely recommend testing the paints before diving in but once you get it layering right, they become a great new category of paint to add to your toolbox.<br />
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<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-42619540490656973152018-10-10T10:00:00.000-04:002018-10-10T10:00:07.450-04:00Painting X-Wing in Black and White (and Re-Posing a Protectorate Starfighter)<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOBHTXync9W0eXTwjvVtaGG4rlfntw4riuUhiiXRNLEcdxmedgxjfG7ERuvhMRp6wjMA4zAOXBnLTwBRNCMysTZ_5_piAGDp0MpMNI9kDJ0R_pcGNaagB9N47iQ4BQ7304qQEkLQ/s1600/00+-+Title.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="272" data-original-width="1058" height="164" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOBHTXync9W0eXTwjvVtaGG4rlfntw4riuUhiiXRNLEcdxmedgxjfG7ERuvhMRp6wjMA4zAOXBnLTwBRNCMysTZ_5_piAGDp0MpMNI9kDJ0R_pcGNaagB9N47iQ4BQ7304qQEkLQ/s640/00+-+Title.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtII8UZcEJbbH9Pe8ar3ba0pbXmF-FvlzCXJpUWq3T7YyXFG0gd1M_cLxul8XJGuXoRms8BoP-bibiJAvNsqQGqWbn-OeulSaimunSn5r5kp9Fs5GWRpmgWLlQ8bp3ECuo17RNBg/s1600/Core+Couriers+-+HWK-290.fw.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="299" data-original-width="680" height="140" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtII8UZcEJbbH9Pe8ar3ba0pbXmF-FvlzCXJpUWq3T7YyXFG0gd1M_cLxul8XJGuXoRms8BoP-bibiJAvNsqQGqWbn-OeulSaimunSn5r5kp9Fs5GWRpmgWLlQ8bp3ECuo17RNBg/s320/Core+Couriers+-+HWK-290.fw.png" width="320" /></a>A while back I posted a full article on my X-Wing Miniatures fleet - <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/02/x-wing-miniatures-core-courier-services.html">Core Couriers</a></span>. I offered some tips at the beginning of that article on how to paint the ships, but wanted to put together a tutorial covering the process in a little more visual detail. In addition to that, you can read how I've modified this starfighter's wings to be in a rotational position. (More on that at the end of the article.)<br />
<br />
As a reminder, my primary project are the <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/05/hordebloods.html">Hordebloods</a></span>, so the repainting of this fleet is just a quick tabletop quality process. Definitely comes together well though and I'm a big fan of the contrast between the dark greys and bright greens.<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting the Ship's Hull</span><br />
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While this is a quick tabletop goaled process, I think you could still apply the tactics to your own black and white painting. Also, I painted the greys using an airbrush, so this might not be something everyone can emulate exactly - but you could do something similar using <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/12/dry-brushing.html">dry brushing</a></span>.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Painting the Hull Grey</span><br />
<br />
So in the photo below, you'll see the progression of how I've painted the ship's hull.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>The first photo (top-left) is the ship primed black.</li>
<li>The next photos show the progression of quick airbrushed highlights.</li>
<ul>
<li>With black paint in the airbrush cup, I add a little bit more white for each step.<br />(No need to clean it out between each step when you're blending. Just add a little more each time.)</li>
<li>In the final highlight step, I clean the airbrush so I can highlight with just white.</li>
<li>When I'm highlighting, I cover more area with the darker greys, working into smaller areas with the light greys / white.</li>
</ul>
<li>The final photo (bottom-right) is the ship washed black.</li>
</ul>
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I've done the same to the bottom of the ship. I really want to point out how a wash does an excellent job of blending and tying the ship together.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Painting the Cockpit</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZXmTmEY9UHNvdRShtAuLrWN4E1tCH9tqrevF0FIap-RAuCxSKxqIdS7Eo5bK-i9cC06VLaXcM5Be1s-4k3PQUGsJtxuLfPePM2sWXaQNRhVtM-Kk9wfLAJgOBRgSY3is_BWgow/s1600/13+-+cockpit+black.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="285" data-original-width="695" height="131" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwZXmTmEY9UHNvdRShtAuLrWN4E1tCH9tqrevF0FIap-RAuCxSKxqIdS7Eo5bK-i9cC06VLaXcM5Be1s-4k3PQUGsJtxuLfPePM2sWXaQNRhVtM-Kk9wfLAJgOBRgSY3is_BWgow/s320/13+-+cockpit+black.jpg" width="320" /></a>Really quick, I paint the glass black.<br />
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Then, I thin some bright green paint with some slow dry medium (you could use water) and run it around the edges of each window.<br />
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I clean up the supports around each window with some grey so it stands out from the green.<br />
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Finally, I paint some Liquitex Gloss Varnish on the windows themselves.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Painting Green Accents and Engines</span><br />
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The cracks between hull plates make it really easy to paint green accents in. Similar to the cockpit, I've thinned the paint down so it really flows and just run the brush along the cracks I want to end up green. It takes a few layers to get the full brightness, since I've thinned the paint down, but it gets there.<br />
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For the gun barrels, I've just dabbed some bright green on the tips.<br />
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To paint the engines, again, just green dots, but I've also centered white dots as well.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Final Photos</span><br />
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And below you can see how the ship turned out! I really like how it looks!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimdo-vBrCLGBEnkndUtuutxqgjiUnW-WfEJesIQBTyleVqXaa3iyyvvSLM1UHheGmqTfY41rOEjenzwwFupVyyL9ji6zOrDChYDzD7GbS_XfjAx1UtR5_yEipHfLz-idct9ygZxg/s1600/Core+Couriers+-+Protectorate+Starfighter.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="960" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimdo-vBrCLGBEnkndUtuutxqgjiUnW-WfEJesIQBTyleVqXaa3iyyvvSLM1UHheGmqTfY41rOEjenzwwFupVyyL9ji6zOrDChYDzD7GbS_XfjAx1UtR5_yEipHfLz-idct9ygZxg/s640/Core+Couriers+-+Protectorate+Starfighter.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">BONUS!</span><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">How I modified my Protectorate Starfighter</span><br />
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Have you watched Star Wars Clone Wars or Rebels? They're surprisingly good series, even for us old kids, and go into some great backstory within the Star Wars universe. (Like what is Maul doing in Solo?)<br />
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So the Mandalorians really get their background expanded and eventually have these ships introduced. What's neat is seeing their wings spinning around their cockpits as they dogfight, similar to B-Wings but centered.<br />
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<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ttS9a8THAYw?start=62" width="560"></iframe></center>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Disassembly</span><br />
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I've used my <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2011/10/finely-serrated-hand-saw.html">jewelers saw</a></span> to cut the wings off the ship. You could use a pair of <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/07/manual-cutting-tools.html">snips</a></span>, but it wouldn't be as clean.<br />
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Even then, I still use a knife to clean up the areas I've cut and smooth it out.<br />
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There's also some detail lacking on the sides, especially where the wings were cut off. If you look below, in the top-left is the before and bottom-left the after, with the pictures on the right showing how I carved some of the detail back into the ship using the saw and a file.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Drilling and Pinning</span><br />
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First thing I do is find the place on the wing for where the hold should go. The easy way, is to put a large drop of paint on the body of the ship, then press the wing against it where it would line up. Now you have a dot on the wing where you can drill.<br />
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Start drilling using a knife to press a dimple into the plastic for the drill to sit in. Then, drill the wing and through the body. You can use a regular drill if you're verrrry careful, or a <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/10/manual-drills.html">pin vice</a></span> to be safe.<br />
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You can then run a pin through the body and glue the wings on as well. Because it's pinned to a wire, you can press and pull the wings in until they're aligned cleanly.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Greenstuffing</span><br />
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The wire doesn't work as a final piece, and still might bend, so I've covered it up with a little bit of greenstuff.<br />
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<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-14620930535320498172018-09-26T10:00:00.000-04:002018-09-26T10:00:03.044-04:00Traders Galaxy - Lamiar Gun Slaves Review<script src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js" type="text/javascript">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjIK3Dbh0kS92FhtpcUKsUSmWsrqqIwOfOJfiRJ5wdujwxzDmgUlWjdmmbMgmkNJqEEpbaYRv7Aa-qcO71juwzIAGD7wyvBEzJ1eNc80TVRw82z4m5lbKSXVCLs2gURLRmUPazg/s640/08+-+finished+miniature.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="261" data-original-width="640" height="259" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjIK3Dbh0kS92FhtpcUKsUSmWsrqqIwOfOJfiRJ5wdujwxzDmgUlWjdmmbMgmkNJqEEpbaYRv7Aa-qcO71juwzIAGD7wyvBEzJ1eNc80TVRw82z4m5lbKSXVCLs2gURLRmUPazg/s640/08+-+finished+miniature.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This week I'm taking a look at a company down under called <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/">Traders Galaxy</a></span>. They've got a unique science fiction line of <a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/product-category/dwergfederation/">Dwerg</a>, (Dwarves) <a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/product-category/tamarin/">Tamarin</a>, (Chimps) <a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/product-category/technomancy/">Technomancy</a> and what I'm looking at today - <a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/product-category/cult-of-lamiar/">Cult of Lamiar</a>.<br />
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<i style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;">* Full disclosure, they provided a free unit for review purposes.</i><br />
<i style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: Verdana, Geneva, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;"><br /></i>
<span style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: "verdana" , "geneva" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;">Above is the miniature I painted while writing the below review and to the left in more of a flesh tone is pictured the miniatures from their website.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: "verdana" , "geneva" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: "verdana" , "geneva" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;">You're able to purchase directly through their webstore and despite being on the other side of the world, shipping was pretty quick. Their </span><span style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: "verdana" , "geneva" , sans-serif; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/blog/">blog</a></span></span><span style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: "verdana" , "geneva" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;"> goes into some army background and even has some links to fan codexes people have written if you want to try these armies in Warhammer 40k.</span><br />
<span style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: "verdana" , "geneva" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: #fefdfa; color: #222222; font-family: "verdana" , "geneva" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; text-align: justify;">Read through the review below or scroll down to the bottom for the summary.</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqNOYegQCsG5OgaVnL0HuQRaIBh5k6DFrx7l2W920rG9o-sSkPXHAwDks73x-cuvhO_OMafV5LDyyff4agsbctYEWpXBdHJ9yVhT-VHOQBh3bHOzaa6C-r5maCyfLl9oMQvpreQ/s1600/01+-+Packaging.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="521" data-original-width="552" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlqNOYegQCsG5OgaVnL0HuQRaIBh5k6DFrx7l2W920rG9o-sSkPXHAwDks73x-cuvhO_OMafV5LDyyff4agsbctYEWpXBdHJ9yVhT-VHOQBh3bHOzaa6C-r5maCyfLl9oMQvpreQ/s200/01+-+Packaging.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: x-large;">Packaging</span><br />
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I found the packaging pretty neat, in that they come in resealable bags. It means that you can put the parts back in their packaging if you're not making them all at once.<br />
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The parts themselves are nothing unlike you're used to seeing. Metal, with some tabs to cut off.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1bTL_Hp1BI3bqKmv6lXS87pSgLmvbanlSWHeZhXuk9OOHDDOZEJvbCxB7qZu4zVSFzdGqbuI7hO0bVkOTO6BuNOg053qxr3YcgV0mAyEjKej0U3-gzSTcJ8KfuUgTVCJDhok5Q/s1600/02+-+Standard+Parts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="384" data-original-width="1281" height="190" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEia1bTL_Hp1BI3bqKmv6lXS87pSgLmvbanlSWHeZhXuk9OOHDDOZEJvbCxB7qZu4zVSFzdGqbuI7hO0bVkOTO6BuNOg053qxr3YcgV0mAyEjKej0U3-gzSTcJ8KfuUgTVCJDhok5Q/s640/02+-+Standard+Parts.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Quality and Assembly</span><br />
<br />
Detail is pretty good on the figures and cleanup is on par with other companies, mainly just some slight mold lines. There were a couple of rough spots in the metal. Took a little bit of filing and some green stuff filler.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjY3zNLk6r93bak5jxUl6B2FXGrliqClob36g9a4nqOkGIUye-bjiMb9SpMdA6FkPhocHWoOg2c4bbr5VDCdWu_a6RxBfJyc89FXQTo3G9CoOnVshJh4tJYDBXRVo5P-tbcsuoA/s1600/03+-+Standard+Mold+Lines.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="333" data-original-width="354" height="188" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKjY3zNLk6r93bak5jxUl6B2FXGrliqClob36g9a4nqOkGIUye-bjiMb9SpMdA6FkPhocHWoOg2c4bbr5VDCdWu_a6RxBfJyc89FXQTo3G9CoOnVshJh4tJYDBXRVo5P-tbcsuoA/s200/03+-+Standard+Mold+Lines.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBDAzksHPFq4IksHvvjAU-fErJB5QACTsLLCaSQilSPKYx58sgZs10NwQWQy1JBGNjk9abNX7bxTAh5PKuDoQv7xUNYEdhHsYLmfUDRLdF8KP8vkVsBxgVMChzmdc0u9x4Zp05g/s1600/04+-+Not+a+perfect+fit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="300" data-original-width="393" height="152" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBBDAzksHPFq4IksHvvjAU-fErJB5QACTsLLCaSQilSPKYx58sgZs10NwQWQy1JBGNjk9abNX7bxTAh5PKuDoQv7xUNYEdhHsYLmfUDRLdF8KP8vkVsBxgVMChzmdc0u9x4Zp05g/s200/04+-+Not+a+perfect+fit.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<br />
The torso fitting was nice, it allowed you to angle the upper body however you like. The fitting was hidden by the armour so it came together nicely. The arms also fit into ball joints so they also have some flexibility in the position you can glue them. Honestly, I wish more models used ball joints to customize how you pose your miniatures.<br />
<br />
I did have to trim the pegs that fit the snake parts together and even then there were some issues with them fitting cleanly together. (Which you'll see later also lead to a break after airbrushing.) The downside of the ball joints were that the arms had some visible lines where the shoulders are. This kind of thing would work better if there was armour, but it's more obvious with organic miniatures. A neat workaround to this can be seen above in the example photo from Traders Galaxy - they ended up painting the joints obviously darker.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwlwAdpXkbp6Pb9-rLaAZ8j-NS6Ess14ky3xLCsLQYhvq5Oqhn5f-D0jUiEyO6IPQxXkJ-PQAhBj0fd2WMm2rW3DNegO2HC51mitHz5rqVONNx7-HbRV33Rb8fr1cnXAg-i3Jiw/s1600/05+-+Poseable.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="373" data-original-width="743" height="160" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIwlwAdpXkbp6Pb9-rLaAZ8j-NS6Ess14ky3xLCsLQYhvq5Oqhn5f-D0jUiEyO6IPQxXkJ-PQAhBj0fd2WMm2rW3DNegO2HC51mitHz5rqVONNx7-HbRV33Rb8fr1cnXAg-i3Jiw/s320/05+-+Poseable.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
Below, you can see the assembled miniature before painting.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDA7KNepZ6kS5NjYYDBjx6n_a_NwRrIZKfJY_nD-e619ctNleRr2jrshu8juWe_xr-TkGovFdG3D2krS_rRY0jcNmY1GyOXSbf_L3c6S483jY5XE1halGaNXan6FgCgnfBUNCP7w/s1600/06+-+together.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="321" data-original-width="467" height="219" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDA7KNepZ6kS5NjYYDBjx6n_a_NwRrIZKfJY_nD-e619ctNleRr2jrshu8juWe_xr-TkGovFdG3D2krS_rRY0jcNmY1GyOXSbf_L3c6S483jY5XE1halGaNXan6FgCgnfBUNCP7w/s320/06+-+together.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting</span><br />
<br />
I used my airbrush to get a good sense of how the paint would hit the model. Just going for a tabletop level of quality for the purposes of the review and display something attainable.<br />
<br />
My approach was to prime black then work from a dark to light green. For the skin, I followed up with some purple deep tones on the skin. Nothing fancy on the armour, just a gold with a quick wash. In the final photos you'll notice I've painted some orange gems on the wrist armour as well.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj165V9gNpcw9CiZHS0brduT8xEL_zecuwytuyi_eTcGGk_zDc6ndOZS5rD-8mOhpLBzcw3Gc4HEsdzcbmvD1K6FlhdCqyo3pWtx9PwnY4zRllImqlFDvGrvzafwyokqw2C-SiWtQ/s1600/06+-+layer+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="284" data-original-width="426" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj165V9gNpcw9CiZHS0brduT8xEL_zecuwytuyi_eTcGGk_zDc6ndOZS5rD-8mOhpLBzcw3Gc4HEsdzcbmvD1K6FlhdCqyo3pWtx9PwnY4zRllImqlFDvGrvzafwyokqw2C-SiWtQ/s320/06+-+layer+1.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk1GwSi1x_kLiIF67Zi9LK4Ysj7wFWCSNq9i2ChCfphDMY9vZB-mWD_y4zZ5DiB-a8LVgacvVbiVZthylFEQo8PQwyf-ixAET0pesO5kktNvpePtJztrZOZVPofxZ1rzGPzjtDYA/s1600/07+-+more+work.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="490" data-original-width="681" height="228" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk1GwSi1x_kLiIF67Zi9LK4Ysj7wFWCSNq9i2ChCfphDMY9vZB-mWD_y4zZ5DiB-a8LVgacvVbiVZthylFEQo8PQwyf-ixAET0pesO5kktNvpePtJztrZOZVPofxZ1rzGPzjtDYA/s320/07+-+more+work.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
I didn't notice it when assembling the miniature, but there were imperfections in the skin that came out once paint was applied. Just some pits and rough edges.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Final Photos and Conclusion</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjIK3Dbh0kS92FhtpcUKsUSmWsrqqIwOfOJfiRJ5wdujwxzDmgUlWjdmmbMgmkNJqEEpbaYRv7Aa-qcO71juwzIAGD7wyvBEzJ1eNc80TVRw82z4m5lbKSXVCLs2gURLRmUPazg/s1600/08+-+finished+miniature.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="449" data-original-width="1099" height="260" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikjIK3Dbh0kS92FhtpcUKsUSmWsrqqIwOfOJfiRJ5wdujwxzDmgUlWjdmmbMgmkNJqEEpbaYRv7Aa-qcO71juwzIAGD7wyvBEzJ1eNc80TVRw82z4m5lbKSXVCLs2gURLRmUPazg/s640/08+-+finished+miniature.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
<br />
I liked the design as something fresh to paint, despite there being less detail on the figure than I'm used to. That said, this (and the rest of their line) would be excellent minis for newer artists who can be intimidated by miniatures that have a lot of details to tackle. Conceptually, I think the only thing that I'm not a fan of is the tongue sticking out, but that's just a personal thing.<br />
<br />
As outlined above, there are some imperfections with how the miniature fits together and with the surface of the model itself, but nothing that would hold you back or create a negative experience painting it.<br />
<br />
Prices on their website are in Australian dollars. From a cost perspective, you're looking at about $10 /model Canadian, less in US dollars. Seems to work out cheaper for the dwarves and larger units.<br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBSUfEhfhEwF5jRQ0h_AjJ-NJVp1rMd8jGlJYlf6dfuNrNZ49RFZ9IcGUX8NYedJtWGMp2sFoLpdQ-scXLsPsiKMMr2sAAAc9zo-M_1fO8i6zymCn4RtAL1A8nY8vKWOB_oPxkg/s1600/ABC+Warrior.PNG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="368" data-original-width="300" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBSUfEhfhEwF5jRQ0h_AjJ-NJVp1rMd8jGlJYlf6dfuNrNZ49RFZ9IcGUX8NYedJtWGMp2sFoLpdQ-scXLsPsiKMMr2sAAAc9zo-M_1fO8i6zymCn4RtAL1A8nY8vKWOB_oPxkg/s200/ABC+Warrior.PNG" width="162" /></a>Overall, I liked the model and find the rest of the designs available on the website pretty unique for a smaller studio. (Except for the <a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/product/necrobot-hulk/">Necrobot Hulk</a> which resembles the something from Judge Dredd... though if you want a miniature ABC Robot, now you know where to find it.) <a href="https://tradersgalaxy.com.au/">Traders Galaxy</a>'s style is reminiscent of the classic miniatures I painted when I was younger with improvements to the assembly and level of detail.<br />
<br />
If you like what you see, definitely jump over to their website and take a look. They're worth checking out.<br />
<br />
Have you looked at their shop? What do you think of their style?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /><div class="blogger-post-footer"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"></div>
<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-25512512209291311602018-09-16T13:00:00.000-04:002018-09-16T21:21:48.375-04:00X-Wing Rules Differences between Mk 1 and 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW89HAquEirJnki7h1jXKMxcoj4Fs6ikZbYiIFGdpNOQEKnxj3nppbMlmH664t2SLHwW49RWRbqZx4hc6Fw2HuwKZ8m0LelkC2n3KyARQtbGKSMj8CA0lVj0CP63Wk5CkIle3MGQ/s1600/Core+Couriers+-+Fleet+Top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="612" data-original-width="1260" height="310" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhW89HAquEirJnki7h1jXKMxcoj4Fs6ikZbYiIFGdpNOQEKnxj3nppbMlmH664t2SLHwW49RWRbqZx4hc6Fw2HuwKZ8m0LelkC2n3KyARQtbGKSMj8CA0lVj0CP63Wk5CkIle3MGQ/s640/Core+Couriers+-+Fleet+Top.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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</script><br />
Now that X-Wing Mark 2 has released, people are going to be wondering what's changed from the first to second editions. Overall, the game appears to be fairly similar to the first edition, with a few things streamlined, some additions and a new approach to building lists.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
A great step in line with other wargaming companies is that all the rules for X-Wing are <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.fantasyflightgames.com/en/products/x-wing-second-edition/">available on Fantasy Flight's website</a></span> if you scroll down to the Support section. Start with Quickstart if you're totally new, the Rulebook for detailed play and the Rules Reference for a great alphabetical index of all the rules. (I'll probably print a copy of this to keep in my P.A.C.K.) They've also released a Squad Builder on both their <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://squadbuilder.fantasyflightgames.com/">Website</a></span> and as an <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.fantasyflightgames.xwingsquadbuilder">Android app</a></span>.<br />
<br />
Oh, and if you want to see more details on my own greyscale <b>Core Couriers</b> fleet including a little background story, <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/02/x-wing-miniatures-core-courier-services.html">take a look</a></span>.<br />
<br />
Now, lets get into the nitty gritty...<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
<br />
First off, before getting into the specifics, your fleet is going to look very different. You're going to want to use the ship builders linked above. I wasn't able to make anything close to my existing fleet. Turrets also have to be pointed now, they can't just shoot anywhere, some ships only have their turret. Honestly, I think as you look through all the little details to follow, the biggest thing to change is the composition of your fleet. Oh yeah, and Han can now be found piloting Lando's Falcon for Scum. More ships come with moving parts now, which is kind of neat.<br />
<br />
What are your impressions? Have I missed anything? Will you be jumping in and upgrading or continuing to play Mark 1?<br />
Leave a comment!<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Ships</span><br />
<ul>
<li><b>ID Tokens</b></li>
<ul>
<li>It's encouraged to place a numbered token on each of your ships to track some in-game effects like Target Lock.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Medium Sized Bases</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Some Ships have increased in size and now there are also Medium bases.</li>
<li>The upgrade boxes have "Medium" sized bases included and conversion pegs so you can place some of your old small Ships on these new medium sized bases.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Pilot Skill</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Seems to be in a range of 1-6 now.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Phases</span><br />
<ol>
<li>Planning (Choose Maneuvers)</li>
<li>System (Special Abilities)</li>
<li>Activation (Movement and Actions)</li>
<li>Engagement (Attacking)</li>
<li>End (Remove Tokens, Recover Some Charges)</li>
</ol>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Movement</span><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Difficulty</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Green arrows on movement dials have been replaced by Blue arrows.</li>
<li>Some effects may increase or decrease the difficulty of movement. There's no bonus for extra hard or extra easy.</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Movement Templates</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Now have a line down the center.</li>
<li>This is used to align things like barrel rolls or to ensure ships are centered.</li>
<li>Old movement templates without this line are no longer compatible with X-Wing Mk2.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Obstacles</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Asteroids</li>
<ul>
<li>Passing through or touching (Range 0): Roll a damage die and take any damage shown. No actions performed.</li>
<li>Touching (Range 0): Cannot attack.</li>
<ul></ul>
</ul>
<li>Debris Fields</li>
<ul>
<li>Passing through or touching (Range 0): Roll a damage die and take critical damage shown. Gain a Stress Token.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Reserve<br style="font-weight: 400;" /><ul style="font-weight: 400;">
<li>Ships can now be placed in Reserve.</li>
<li>They're off the table for all intents and purposes and abilities only function if they specifically reference Reserve.</li>
</ul>
</b></li>
<li><b>Reverse </b>(Dash-Line-Square)</li>
<ul>
<li>Some ships can now move in reverse.</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Stationary </b>(SQUARE)</li>
<ul>
<li>Doesn't move, but counts as executing a maneuver.</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Talon Roll</b></li>
<ul>
<li>When placing the ship after moving, it can only be placed in 1 of 3 positions:</li>
<ul>
<li>Center to Center, aligning the dashes on the ship and the movement template.</li>
<li>All the way forward</li>
<li>All the way backward</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul><ul><ul>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Actions</span><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Barrel Roll</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Still using the short edge of the straight 1 movement template.</li>
<li>Align the center dash of the movement template with the center dash of either side of the ship.</li>
<li>Move the ship to the other side of the movement template. Same as the Talon Roll, instead of placing it anywhere along the side, it can only be placed in 1 of 3 positions:</li>
<ul>
<li>Center to Center</li>
<li>All the way forward</li>
<li>All the way backward</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Boost</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Ships can't boost if they would overlap a ship or pass through an obstacle.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Coordinate</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Allows a ship within Range 1-2 to take an action. Fails if no ship in range.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Dock</b><br /><ul>
<li>A ship may dock or deploy during the System Phase on it's initiative, though not both in the same phase.</li>
<li>May start the game docked.</li>
<li><b>Deploy</b></li>
<ul>
<li>During the system phase, use any non-reverse, non-stationary maneuver to move from the front or rear of the carrier. May them perform an action.</li>
<ul></ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Dock</b></li>
<ul>
<li>During the system phase, a ship at range 0 of its carrier may dock.</li>
<ul></ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Emergency Deploy</b></li>
<ul>
<li>If the carrier is destroyed, a docked ship receives one critical damage and deploys without an action. It's destroyed if it can't be placed.</li>
<li>It can still take a combat action during the engagement phase if it hasn't missed it's initiative.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
</li>
<li><b>Fail</b></li>
<ul>
<li>There isn't pre-measuring to see if you can perform an action. Choose what you want to do, then check.</li>
<li>If an action fails, players don't get to choose a different one.</li>
<li>If something triggers after an action takes place, a Failed action won't trigger these additional things.</li>
<li>Cannot link from a failed action.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Jam</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Jam action happens at Range 1. Weapons or abilities may also Jam.</li>
<li>Attacker gets to remove a green token or a Target Lock, then removes the Jam token.</li>
<li>If a ship is jammed and doesn't have any green tokens or locks, the jam token remains. A Jammed ship given a green token or a lock doesn't receive it, then remove the Jam token.</li>
<li>Jams don't cause actions to fail.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Performing Actions</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Some actions are now coloured Red</li>
<ul>
<li>These cause stress.</li>
</ul>
<li>Some actions are now "Linked". (Action > Action)</li>
<ul>
<li>In these cases, one action will have an arrow pointing to the right at another action.</li>
<li>You can perform the second one after the first if you want to.</li>
<li>For example, Green Focus > Stressful Barrel Roll</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<ul><ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Reload</b></li>
<ul>
<li>If a torpedo, missile or bomb has less Energy Tokens than its max, gain another and the ship gets a <b>Disabled </b>token.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Rotate</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Ships with turrets now have turret markers that go on their base and display the direction the turret is pointed and can shoot.</li>
<li>Rotate the ship's turret marker to another quadrant.</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Target Lock</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Target Lock tokens are now numbered.</li>
<li>When you place a target lock token next to an enemy ship, use the token with the same number on it as the ID token of the ship making the target lock.</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Attacking</span><br />
<ul>
<li>Arcs</li>
<ul>
<li>An icon representing the arc(s) that a ship can fire in will be printed on the ship's card with the corresponding number of attack dice.</li>
<li>All ships have a Bullseye Arc in the center of their attack arc. Some rules may reference this. This arc is a straight line the width of the firing range finder.</li>
</ul>
<li>Flanking</li>
<ul>
<li>Rules may reference the placement of a ship compared to another.</li>
<li>Infront = fully in the forward half of the ship.</li>
<li>Behind = fully in the rear half of the ship's base.</li>
<li>Flanking = along the line in the middle of the ship's base.</li>
<ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<li>Simultaneous Fire</li>
<ul>
<li>Ships aren't removed from play until after all ships firing on the same initiative have fired.</li>
</ul>
<li>Steps</li>
<ul>
<li>Attacker rolls dice, defender modifies them, attacker modifies them.<br />Defender rolls dice, attacker modified them, defender modified them.</li>
<ul></ul>
</ul>
<ul><ul>
</ul>
</ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Upgrades and Abilities</span><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Special Weapons</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Display the arc it can be fired in now.</li>
<li>Range bonuses can be applied now.<br />(+1 Attack at Range 1 and +1 Defense at Range 3)</li>
<li><b>Range Bonus Indicator</b></li>
<ul>
<li>If there's a red missile icon present with the weapon stats, DO NOT apply range bonuses.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Requirements</b></li>
<ul>
<li>May display "Attack (SYMBOL)" in which case, the SYMBOL must be available to fire the weapon. Example, "Attack (Target Lock)".</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Charges </b>(Yellow Lightning Bolt Symbol)</li>
<ul>
<li>These are abilities, ammo, equipment, etc.. that have a limited number of uses.</li>
<li>Ships start at maximum charge.</li>
<li>Spend charges according to what the card says. (Flip the charge token over to the red inactive side.)</li>
<li>Recover charges in the end phase if the maximum charge number has an arrow next to it.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Force</b> (Purple Blobby Flower Symbol)</li>
<ul>
<li>Same rules as Charges.</li>
<li>Can also spend any number of Force Tokens to convert Focus symbols on attack and defense dice to Hits and Dodges.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Tokens</span><br />
<ul>
<li><b>Colouring</b></li>
<ul>
<li>They've change the colour and shape of some tokens to streamline what's removed when.</li>
<li><b>Green </b>Circles</li>
<ul>
<li>Positive, removed during end phase.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Orange </b>Circles</li>
<ul>
<li>Negative, removed during end phase.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Blue </b>Squares</li>
<ul>
<li>Positive, removed as per token's rules.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Red </b>Squares</li>
<ul>
<li>Negative, removed as per token's rules.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<li><b>Calculate</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Can spend these to turn Focus results on dice to either Hits or Dodges.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Condition </b>(Shady looking alien)</li>
<ul>
<li>Certain cards may place a condition in effect on a ship.</li>
<li>Place a Condition Token next to affected ships as a reminder.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Devices</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Are Dropped from the rear or Launched from the front.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Disabled</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Orange token that prevents shooting.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Ion</b></li>
<ul>
<li>A ship is ionized if it has enough ion tokens to equal or exceed its size.</li>
<ul>
<li>1 = Small</li>
<li>2 = Medium</li>
<li>3 = Large</li>
</ul>
<li>Ships affected perform the Ion Maneuver on it's initiative, which is a Blue 1 forward and doesn't count as revealing movement.</li>
<li>It can only perform the Focus action.</li>
<li>All Ion Tokens are removed after it's activation.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Battles</span></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Standard Game</b></li>
<ul>
<li>This is still played on on a 3' x 3' map, but now with 200 points.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Quick Build</b></li>
<ul>
<li>Use the recommended ship load outs and assemble a fleet with a total threat level of 8.</li>
</ul>
<li><b>Escalation</b></li>
<ul>
<li>The rulebook includes this game mode, which involves jumping in additional ships as yours are destroyed.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
<div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">General</span></div>
</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Limited</b></li>
<ul>
<li>A dot beside the name of a ship, upgrade, etc is Limited and there can be only one.</li>
<li>Some effects may also reference Limited items.</li>
</ul>
</ul>
</div>
<ul>
</ul>
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<br /><hr />
<table border="1"><tbody>
<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-36583802041277101172018-08-29T10:00:00.001-04:002022-12-29T11:30:15.381-05:00Mordheim Pit Fighters<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I painted a band of Pit Fighters a little while back for Mordheim, using a variety of models but mostly some Tzeentch cultists. I also did a few unique things when it came to painting them that I'll also discuss the details of at the end of the article.<br />
<br />
Basically since I was painting for an old school game (Mordheim) I decided to try my hand at more of a Games Workshop grim dark style with less contrast and less highlights... it's so unlike what I usually paint that I'm not sure I'm happy with how they look. I did enjoy creating the blue chitin armour though.<br />
<br />
The following is a 360 degree video of the warband, after while I'll show some images of each of the models and talk about them and at the end of this article I have the paint formulas for everything.<br />
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<iframe allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/3ja5ma5FPIk?ecver=2" style="height: 100%; left: 0; position: absolute; width: 100%;" width="640"></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Warband Leader</span><br />
<br />
Most of the Pit Fighters have been painted similarly, though a uniqueness of the leader is he has a <b>vulture </b>on his arm.<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>I airbrushed it in a phoenix style, using orange overall.</li>
<li>Highlighting to yellow.</li>
<li>Shading to a dark red.</li>
<li>Then, I airbrushed black along the feather tips.</li>
<li>To finish up, I used a light red wash.</li>
<li>Then a slight highlight of beige on the feathers and light grey on the black wing tips.</li>
</ol>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtqA_GuwpbuFDXwgAoKB4i_nY9J_1iLMBVSnaMsxfUlMeJgaqkjyZeOMZZ5yi5s97igsKfJa3hf7tHoqdPMkY5Ry0X8YNoWeah3s8KLSVEkuAdrhxfCx1uNZkhCbOt6MCd85HrA/s1600/01+-+Leader.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="412" data-original-width="977" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtqA_GuwpbuFDXwgAoKB4i_nY9J_1iLMBVSnaMsxfUlMeJgaqkjyZeOMZZ5yi5s97igsKfJa3hf7tHoqdPMkY5Ry0X8YNoWeah3s8KLSVEkuAdrhxfCx1uNZkhCbOt6MCd85HrA/s640/01+-+Leader.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVlfN7HM-Nl8cu1QgmYGNvNCTAQx-_M7y2bo5YRyZ8_23iPIhakoSnCiNdx_AVApd_h2zdVUu7gx8kGhkvErqH9xcRWLPgEiav6SW37AiL-S5pJf01N8wDDyPLe_AUHJvnurgAw/s1600/10+-+scroll.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="590" data-original-width="488" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDVlfN7HM-Nl8cu1QgmYGNvNCTAQx-_M7y2bo5YRyZ8_23iPIhakoSnCiNdx_AVApd_h2zdVUu7gx8kGhkvErqH9xcRWLPgEiav6SW37AiL-S5pJf01N8wDDyPLe_AUHJvnurgAw/s320/10+-+scroll.jpg" width="264" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Mage</span><br />
<br />
I don't have a mage in my warband yet, but wanted to paint one up while doing the rest of them. I'm really happy with how the <b>parchment </b>turned out.<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>I started with a base of beige.</li>
<li>Washed it with a dark brown to bring out all the etched symbols and "words."</li>
<li>Added some washes, both chestnut and sepia, applied at the same time in different areas. This allows them to bleed together and creates natural blends. (pictured)</li>
<li>Dry-brush with a light beige paint.</li>
</ol>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Trollslayer</span><br />
<br />
Nothing too fancy here, just an angry little dwarf with a huge axe and bright orange hair. The red metallic is an old craft paint that I've hung on to all these years.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTJIQ7ko3RDKAVHBDezwxZH3XZDOzuoOc5Z1NWVjQEcbnTOJeDrktGFDA3MMVA9mLUAKh9qEatxOsCdG-lk2iGcpBRDgdKfqeU7ZYcmTqq5-nEpd9zgmBrLcj4Wky0K4i56rHAsw/s1600/03+-+Trollslayer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="367" data-original-width="512" height="458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTJIQ7ko3RDKAVHBDezwxZH3XZDOzuoOc5Z1NWVjQEcbnTOJeDrktGFDA3MMVA9mLUAKh9qEatxOsCdG-lk2iGcpBRDgdKfqeU7ZYcmTqq5-nEpd9zgmBrLcj4Wky0K4i56rHAsw/s640/03+-+Trollslayer.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Cheerleaders</span><br />
<br />
These are a couple models I picked up from <a href="https://greebo-games.com/">Greebo Games</a> as part of a group of twisted Victorian models. I think they were supposed to be firey skulls, but in Mordheim I gave them maces. Steel skull maces.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Muscle</span><br />
<br />
Picked up a Blood Bowl ogre to act as my Pit Fighter ogre - definitely works well. You can see the blue armour "chitin" really well on him. The idea was that some of my army's armour came from desert beetles. Scroll to the bottle of the article for the paint formula.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiyVkns6MwczqexQVR1vVDh4lwHzaCKxRZJMQxpD_tmitHStmEvvTnadL3kA2o5F08tNmraJwdy4LvcbQoK5C91oEP3n76bHwZkY699WxESbF-aL8HztPqXlNVCdFzrTQGWO_z_w/s1600/05+-+Ogre.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="788" data-original-width="670" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiyVkns6MwczqexQVR1vVDh4lwHzaCKxRZJMQxpD_tmitHStmEvvTnadL3kA2o5F08tNmraJwdy4LvcbQoK5C91oEP3n76bHwZkY699WxESbF-aL8HztPqXlNVCdFzrTQGWO_z_w/s640/05+-+Ogre.jpg" width="544" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Shield Guards</span><br />
<br />
Nothing really new here. Gave these guys halberds and shields and the shields were painted the same as I described about on the ogre.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">The Rabble</span><br />
<br />
This is the group of the rest of the Pit Fighters. Just generic guys ready to kick butt.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjluonlfoiXtztMgcj54j8OD_Pth44hgGqe37mSZYElMcEHrksa9Mj6Hg_h9WUtniBlZeljUj6K05fEqEd5QoRoNhAtHL0Q2e-y7Jqn1wht8VG2T1DU1BVqtsEJxKeN62jx26czdA/s1600/07+-+Winions.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="627" data-original-width="699" height="574" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjluonlfoiXtztMgcj54j8OD_Pth44hgGqe37mSZYElMcEHrksa9Mj6Hg_h9WUtniBlZeljUj6K05fEqEd5QoRoNhAtHL0Q2e-y7Jqn1wht8VG2T1DU1BVqtsEJxKeN62jx26czdA/s640/07+-+Winions.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: x-large;">Painting Formula</span><br />
<br />
I think they turned out alright, though without any bright highlights it's definitely different from my usual style. In that, I'm not entirely sure how happy I am with the final result, but I decided to use a "grim dark" approach since I was painting for an old Games Workshop game :D<br />
<br />
I'm just going to touch on the skin and armour for these guys, the rest of my formulas are still covered below.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Skin</span><br />
<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1-KbzVbghXCJvZlmJZUKfe81O7rc7xV7X_d63XjRXgt0953J7QMWXwKR3gT5NfcrqocPXkH8cjzh5suKSgLBsxxSMOkto1GZFof0vGtJgKgU4jnloZxfgQUcoX1dXeGwbjMA5A/s1600/persian+source.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="277" data-original-width="250" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEix1-KbzVbghXCJvZlmJZUKfe81O7rc7xV7X_d63XjRXgt0953J7QMWXwKR3gT5NfcrqocPXkH8cjzh5suKSgLBsxxSMOkto1GZFof0vGtJgKgU4jnloZxfgQUcoX1dXeGwbjMA5A/s200/persian+source.jpg" width="180" /></a>So for the skin, I was going for kind of a "300" (The Movie) Persian skin tone. Some tips regarding my approach, though the full formula with paint swatches is pictured below:<br />
<br />
<ol>
<li>Keep the shadow colours dark.</li>
<ol>
<li>I used XV-88 blended to Zandri Dust</li>
</ol>
<li>Highlight with lighter colours.</li>
<ol>
<li>Dwarf Flesh blended to Midlund Flesh.</li>
<li>Dwarf, Midlund and White mixed for a final highlight.</li>
</ol>
<li>Wash the shadows with Agrax Earthshade.</li>
<li>Wash overall with Fuegan Orange</li>
<li>Wash overall with Seraphim Sepia.</li>
</ol>
<div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh0m8OmaBRg28vsqHRvZrP1XAKpJUxK1-u8ZdF_joV9oVNgAyFqvVwdtrekKqrUVELT4UsjAwFGNkdLdp17982pYvByVjriWk-MD5j8hUCeHfDvOXnPVFAk4OzHs2mdvbTPNbZGA/s1600/12+-+skin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="930" data-original-width="1356" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhh0m8OmaBRg28vsqHRvZrP1XAKpJUxK1-u8ZdF_joV9oVNgAyFqvVwdtrekKqrUVELT4UsjAwFGNkdLdp17982pYvByVjriWk-MD5j8hUCeHfDvOXnPVFAk4OzHs2mdvbTPNbZGA/s640/12+-+skin.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Scarab Armour</span></div>
<br />
<br />
This is a little trickier to replicate, only because Games Workshop doesn't sell coloured metallics anymore. You could try mixing some colour into silver, mixing washes over silver or layering technical gem paints over silver. As an alternate, there are other brands that continue to sell coloured metallics.<br />
<ol>
<li>Base with black.</li>
<li>Paint thick layers of metallics and keep painting while everything is still wet. This allows the paints to mix and blend together for you.</li>
<ol>
<li>Start with a layer of blue metallic.</li>
<li>Add streaks and blotches of metallic green in highlight areas.</li>
<li>Add streaks and blotches of metallic purple in shadow areas.</li>
</ol>
<li>Wait for everything to dry.</li>
<li>If you plan on varnishing the model, do it now.</li>
<li>Option 1: Apply a few layers of gloss to the blue armour.</li>
<li>Option 2: Apply a layer of Liquitex pouring medium to the blue armour.</li>
<ol>
<li>This'll be thicker and create a nicer chitin look.</li>
<li>You'll need to try to level each area, apply the medium, then wait for it to dry before starting the next area. This will ensure the medium doesn't run off the model.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
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<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">All the Formulas</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfUr9X0USsGDvKZf-2D1UN84IE3bMafiMawGeIboQhzyirfbU15AmjV5MK0QU7FY8A4k0w6osQhJrbkavu63P72FfztIgBo6zUtZ2Hm2l0UxtvrV85SlGc8gnxyGEYrQZR5UQQA/s1600/00+-+Pit+Fighters+Group.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="507" data-original-width="868" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKfUr9X0USsGDvKZf-2D1UN84IE3bMafiMawGeIboQhzyirfbU15AmjV5MK0QU7FY8A4k0w6osQhJrbkavu63P72FfztIgBo6zUtZ2Hm2l0UxtvrV85SlGc8gnxyGEYrQZR5UQQA/s640/00+-+Pit+Fighters+Group.jpg" width="640" /></a><br />
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<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-26647944709520835972018-08-01T10:00:00.000-04:002019-09-25T10:23:36.148-04:00Count Vlagorescu's Midnight Court<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE5lV005fsy9OESyXk8HwZLysIW6WnlhzKSg7Pu52pwwzYWwBOys8myIvE5d7kt1mPVOh2SLB_S8ryqy6teJxDr2TYtFtSrlvUJrF1BQnISRYfuB-ts6Ecl1hC217j8zev9GThYA/s1600/Title+-+Count+Vlagorescu%2527s+Midnight+Court.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="150" data-original-width="570" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE5lV005fsy9OESyXk8HwZLysIW6WnlhzKSg7Pu52pwwzYWwBOys8myIvE5d7kt1mPVOh2SLB_S8ryqy6teJxDr2TYtFtSrlvUJrF1BQnISRYfuB-ts6Ecl1hC217j8zev9GThYA/s1600/Title+-+Count+Vlagorescu%2527s+Midnight+Court.jpg" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid79qip0WaiBNKZSzlPuPAQu1JP90FqTakOMSLbKRjBlxhRCBnnIXWlPQD-Ue_dhHPzLJScl4NfQo6bV1it_eaiK2DsB5sn4sisgA1oVWjwIndNFGsPKapLxSk-hyf0pWavKw2cw/s1600/04+-+All+Top.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="178" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEid79qip0WaiBNKZSzlPuPAQu1JP90FqTakOMSLbKRjBlxhRCBnnIXWlPQD-Ue_dhHPzLJScl4NfQo6bV1it_eaiK2DsB5sn4sisgA1oVWjwIndNFGsPKapLxSk-hyf0pWavKw2cw/s200/04+-+All+Top.jpg" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: x-large;">Overview</span><br />
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This was a project that I completed for two reasons. The first was that I've been wanting to build an Age of Sigmar army to game with the folks at our new local Warhammer store. Then came along <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/10/armies-on-parade-kitchener-2016.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Armies on Parade 2016</span></a>. That was the push that I needed to complete it.<br />
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Now, admittedly, my <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/05/hordebloods.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Hordebloods</span></a> are my primary army which consume the focus of my high end painting efforts. I wanted an army that I could complete in a reasonable amount of time so I painted this one a little above tabletop quality.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhboxReixCr3RgTF83nOwkhWnqav2fE0R_tCNbShdY66we6mRlm8SZAlQJ0smEkWrsFjvjqIeYdVGdk0PR2O_5BbLzMVbuIepLa6dnDrmFfiIv1jxozlaihRY__0rfnpM1TTAZCiQ/s1600/01+-+All.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="146" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhboxReixCr3RgTF83nOwkhWnqav2fE0R_tCNbShdY66we6mRlm8SZAlQJ0smEkWrsFjvjqIeYdVGdk0PR2O_5BbLzMVbuIepLa6dnDrmFfiIv1jxozlaihRY__0rfnpM1TTAZCiQ/s200/01+-+All.jpg" width="200" /></a>Because I couldn't leave it at that, I took this as an opportunity to create something with an artistic angle. Looking at some of the other <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/11/bringing-new-style-to-hobby.html">styles I've wanted to experiment with</a>, black and white came to mind. This was a scheme I'd pictured at one point for Tyranids, but works great for a ghoul army too.<br />
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Did I ever get to play it? Only a couple times to be honest. However, I love how the undead-bat-monster-dragon-thing came to life, I've used it at shows from time to time and the display board has been an awesome attention grabber at some of the community events I've engaged in. (Maker Expo, Artist @ Work at our local libraries, etc.)<br />
<a name='more'></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Photos of the Army</span><br />
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If you'd just like to <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/11/count-vlagorescus-midnight-court-high.html">view some close up and final photos of the Midnight Court</a></span>, this is where you want to go. I've got some overviews of the battlefield and close ups of all the creatures big and small.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKrHq7Ph_tfOYtV4Xyv2WtxXfyYTxBZtAfpiQPI01NST5olG_itcU0O7f_rbcjyWOtST1ZgWyMlSvuWzLpcZ1w1ZmYzhLMD8TY05u59wWe2ef6jlZmlF6EIAhtcGUOIEr5ReNDlg/s1600/03+-+All+Front.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="184" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKrHq7Ph_tfOYtV4Xyv2WtxXfyYTxBZtAfpiQPI01NST5olG_itcU0O7f_rbcjyWOtST1ZgWyMlSvuWzLpcZ1w1ZmYzhLMD8TY05u59wWe2ef6jlZmlF6EIAhtcGUOIEr5ReNDlg/s320/03+-+All+Front.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xjzDbX7MuBWOXD0EKVfU6Y_IcUAMRbcwwCrnQarVg9wS7ZUU7SA8iwVOld_-C-R-IjFiUBJRXmQXUfBdfN_ZQaJptXqutAgfgnucnLi2BaysDaEDluRLIIIHJnQnxT9nWG_x8Q/s1600/11+-+front+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4xjzDbX7MuBWOXD0EKVfU6Y_IcUAMRbcwwCrnQarVg9wS7ZUU7SA8iwVOld_-C-R-IjFiUBJRXmQXUfBdfN_ZQaJptXqutAgfgnucnLi2BaysDaEDluRLIIIHJnQnxT9nWG_x8Q/s200/11+-+front+2.jpg" width="185" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Tutorials</span><br />
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Maybe you're looking to recreate an aspect of the army - well I have those details too.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Display Board</span><br />
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This is where you can <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2017/01/building-display-boards.html"><span style="font-size: large;">read about how I created the display board, textured it and painted it</span></a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsgpxCleBe_3XQfY9fKmbszUuZpIXfnb0EibuwyJFeWYJMjxNjZUAEUCa0DYjX0Jh65bFgHkvjwca_FYBNbIQIcZ_kBVa58h97d1OzPW-UrwxqCTEtJttr13GUL1PmYBbneb9JA/s640/10+-+spackled.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="418" data-original-width="640" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsgpxCleBe_3XQfY9fKmbszUuZpIXfnb0EibuwyJFeWYJMjxNjZUAEUCa0DYjX0Jh65bFgHkvjwca_FYBNbIQIcZ_kBVa58h97d1OzPW-UrwxqCTEtJttr13GUL1PmYBbneb9JA/s320/10+-+spackled.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I have another tutorial where I cover <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2017/01/creating-vlagorescus-black-water.html">creating the black water and mirrored reflections</a></span>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAJ-n5-MuF7CAvDZX21ipKUqA6gwmQGti9TPVAoskk-Bv-JsBwKgHflmw2HeEqkLV8IyY4bjRS8Q32D23_XH1btXPi8PgpsSxjHXo-fH4qKGdYvBOn4BmpGcPoGV8ffQekUw2dfA/s640/40+-+Bubbles.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="246" data-original-width="640" height="123" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAJ-n5-MuF7CAvDZX21ipKUqA6gwmQGti9TPVAoskk-Bv-JsBwKgHflmw2HeEqkLV8IyY4bjRS8Q32D23_XH1btXPi8PgpsSxjHXo-fH4qKGdYvBOn4BmpGcPoGV8ffQekUw2dfA/s320/40+-+Bubbles.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Army</span><br />
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It's subtle, but there is colour within this black and white army. <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/11/painting-glowing-eyes.html">Learn how I painted glowing eyes</a></span>.<br />
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There are <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="https://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2019/09/multitone-black-and-white.html">important nuances</a></span> when you're painting an army in black and white and I've gone into more detail about that.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikbov-fxMHz2KncrA0XCao9O55iRVo8-9HK9mikMKDPHlrVsjvQFgAW_gcXILS_TK8x75YrBTVie6E9nJS7-4xawxw6qWcL0ZbOm62CnfC82Fqx8uobz5stIR2hPn7K92zF6kUQ/s1600/09+-+another+example.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="371" data-original-width="467" height="254" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhikbov-fxMHz2KncrA0XCao9O55iRVo8-9HK9mikMKDPHlrVsjvQFgAW_gcXILS_TK8x75YrBTVie6E9nJS7-4xawxw6qWcL0ZbOm62CnfC82Fqx8uobz5stIR2hPn7K92zF6kUQ/s320/09+-+another+example.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
There's also an email link to ask the author for advice.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-25513389509585150902018-07-11T12:00:00.000-04:002018-07-11T12:00:04.811-04:00Fixing Broken X-Wing Peg Mounts<script src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js" type="text/javascript">
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What should you do if you need to repair broken peg mounts on X-Wing Miniatures ships?<br />
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Relax, it's not actually that horrible and the process isn't too hard. The plan is basically this:<br />
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<ol>
<li>Cut off the broken peg.</li>
<li>Drill a hole in the body of the ship.</li>
<li>Cut the female end from another peg.</li>
<li>Glue that end into the hole you drilled.</li>
</ol>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijVvMPnyBg4FXOVWF6NpJkvJMwPenWOaqEC_hV4deSHYPf2mgVeLKb05_g_MNOEwBHaVM3CzibGIYIvbwK6k4t1p5c1kCXMpMFWS0HtMrrbjRn7Ezjw_b5dJFO-dq9eJusCy3XcA/s1600/02+-+The+Plan.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="159" data-original-width="1000" height="100" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijVvMPnyBg4FXOVWF6NpJkvJMwPenWOaqEC_hV4deSHYPf2mgVeLKb05_g_MNOEwBHaVM3CzibGIYIvbwK6k4t1p5c1kCXMpMFWS0HtMrrbjRn7Ezjw_b5dJFO-dq9eJusCy3XcA/s640/02+-+The+Plan.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Easy, right? OK, the drill step could be a little tricky. If you want to avoid that, here are some other tips:<br />
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<ul>
<li>Use the above method, but simply glue the female end to the bottom of your ship without worrying about drilling a hole for added stability.</li>
<li>Roll a small cylinder of green stuff, push the male end of a peg in and let it dry. Once dry, clean up the green stuff and super glue to the bottom of your craft.</li>
<li>Buy one of the kits out there that will allow you to magnetize your ships and convert.</li>
</ul>
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If you're ready to learn how I fixed my ship, click on through.<br />
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Did you just find my ships and would like to see more photos of the completed fleet? I've <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/02/x-wing-miniatures-core-courier-services.html">got those</a></span> too.</div>
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<a name='more'></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Clean up the Broken Pieces</span><br />
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This is fairly straight forward. Get yourself some <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/07/manual-cutting-tools.html">side cutters</a></span> and cut off the broken mount. You don't have to do this all in one go. Be careful and cut a little at a time.<br />
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Thin wire cutters or sprue cutters will allow you to get real flush with the body of the ship.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO9NPf_i_4FogL0l5wHjzEl-KfVODdTAqicbGuDUo-HkrPUyXSdwq8SFeMRwOxuAbyxw9Y2FrNQQ4na5G3l741pzozH5d4vzK7hTrZtAZ4NxvBd-w_Y3-GsjnTVm5H3YjSSMa3WA/s1600/03+-+Cutting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="744" height="550" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO9NPf_i_4FogL0l5wHjzEl-KfVODdTAqicbGuDUo-HkrPUyXSdwq8SFeMRwOxuAbyxw9Y2FrNQQ4na5G3l741pzozH5d4vzK7hTrZtAZ4NxvBd-w_Y3-GsjnTVm5H3YjSSMa3WA/s640/03+-+Cutting.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Drilling the Hole Out</span><br />
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This is the part that gets a little intimidating. As I mentioned previously, you're fine gluing the female peg to the bottom of the ship at this point. If you scroll down, you'll see how I've prepared the mount. However, drilling a hole will add a little extra stability to your new mount.<br />
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First, I use a hobby knife to create an indent for the tip of my drill bit to sit in to. This will prevent the bit from sliding around as I start drilling.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilAC2W5p-6gXK6D8butnGphy6TRV_O5T7LzCPsZQZzyOfr_e5O1sg4GlFXpecHGaAq9ifASoezFT3WEjCUvD2NtXvxekOBY1X_Mo-VefHCvy6zGWhR4OuqORjWDRF9DIqbyewaSQ/s1600/04+-+dimple.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="305" data-original-width="229" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilAC2W5p-6gXK6D8butnGphy6TRV_O5T7LzCPsZQZzyOfr_e5O1sg4GlFXpecHGaAq9ifASoezFT3WEjCUvD2NtXvxekOBY1X_Mo-VefHCvy6zGWhR4OuqORjWDRF9DIqbyewaSQ/s1600/04+-+dimple.jpg" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Choosing a Drill Bit</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYqOjyAVEMRkqBVekrl9fWUzh-Voso_9H-fNX1lYGiS-6hI2vaQBgd8aUvFpQPUf9uqSKB5ZUx6a0OJ8kwbPb1hXRNGC3uYkoXhTVrRDXr1K8LE8yULOQqU7evOhjSyib5FS9Iw/s1600/05+-+Sizing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="157" data-original-width="287" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzYqOjyAVEMRkqBVekrl9fWUzh-Voso_9H-fNX1lYGiS-6hI2vaQBgd8aUvFpQPUf9uqSKB5ZUx6a0OJ8kwbPb1hXRNGC3uYkoXhTVrRDXr1K8LE8yULOQqU7evOhjSyib5FS9Iw/s1600/05+-+Sizing.jpg" /></a></div>
What's the size of an X-Wing peg? According to many sources online, it's 3mm in diameter. I couldn't find my calipers to get an exact check, but in this drill set of mine, it fit through a 3.57mm (9/64") hole with room to spare, but didn't fit through a 3.18mm (1/8") hole. When I drilled out the hole with a 1/8" bit, it didn't quite fit. Sooooo, I guess that's what happens when you trust Internet.<br />
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A nice drill set is quite handy. If they've got these speed load ends, you could turn the bits with your hand without using a power drill if you want to be more careful. I typically drill miniatures using a power drill, though I'm extra cautious, with only a few revolutions at a time and use <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2011/08/pinning-your-models-and-impaler-wip-2.html">3-in-1 oil</a></span> on metal miniatures.<br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Drilling the Hole</span><br />
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I've started off with a small 1/16" drill bit to create a pilot hole. Careful while drilling - you don't want to puncture your ship's hull on the other side, especially if you're holding the ship in your hand with a finger ready to be injured.<br />
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Moving up, here's the 1/8" drill bit next to the 1/16". You'll notice here too, the bit looks juuuust a little smaller than the peg.<br />
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So, using the 1/8" drill bit, I expand the pilot hole that I started with.<br />
Still, you can see the peg doesn't quite fit.<br />
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Finally, I move to the 9/64" bit. I've got to be a little more careful and just make a few quick revolutions to scrape the sides. You might be safer to do this one by hand.<br />
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The peg fits with a little room to spare. This ends up working out well once I add some paint and glue. Not much wiggle at all.<br />
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If you err on the side of drilling a little smaller, you can always use a hobby knife to cut the edges and expand the size of the hole a little.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Paint the Hole</span><br />
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Since you're about to glue a clear piece of plastic into this hole, you don't want the miniature's plastic showing through. I painted the edge and inside with some Liquitex Black <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/gesso-paint-on-primer.html">Gesso</a></span>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Fit the New Peg</span><br />
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I'm sure you have plenty of spare pegs floating around. I run all my ships with just 1 level anyways, so the answer to that is a resounding "yes." I was worried the plastic would bit hard and brittle and that I'd have to cut it instead with my <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2011/10/finely-serrated-hand-saw.html">jewelers saw</a></span>, so I did a test cut. It was quite clean.<br />
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Then, I check the sizing of how much of the peg I need to leave. Comparing to what it looks like on another ship, I also stick the end of the peg I'm about to cut into the hole and mark depth with some paint.<br />
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Once I have an idea of where I need to cut, I cut. If you're unsure, better you cut it a little long and trim what you need.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Glue the New Peg</span><br />
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Before gluing, it doesn't hurt to do a quick test fit.<br />
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Another quick check is to see what the orientation of the peg should be. OK, so X-Wing pegs have the flat end facing the front of the ship.<br />
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Add a little glue to the hole with either a nozzle or using a tool to gather a drop of glue and apply it inside the hole. Don't use too much, otherwise it'll spew out when you push the peg in because there's not that much spare room.<br />
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Finally, with the peg roughly in the position you want, place it in the hole.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Cleaning up the Peg</span><br />
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Super glue sometimes causes frosting but you can scrape this off the plastic peg. I've also painted over the glue with some more Gesso.<br />
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I was left with some different shades of black and glossiness underneath the ship and felt it looked a little ugly. A quick layer of Liquitex <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2010/09/liquidtex-matte-varnish.html">Varnish</a></span> took care of that and evened everything out.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Completed Photos</span><br />
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This all looks pretty good to me. Almost good as new, I'd say.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">It's Not Perfect, but That's OK</span><br />
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I don't think it ended up being perfect, but that's fine. The glue dried really quick and I didn't have the opportunity to adjust it at all. But it's close. Real close.<br />
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<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-20216578.post-20395374349713268102018-04-25T10:00:00.000-04:002018-04-25T11:59:14.293-04:00Fletching (Creating) Arrows<script src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js" type="text/javascript">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIIee8RO0Qev30PZKwcvXpxZ7s4MMhWbZXrvso6nKReNvRT3mCkI5uSvYAS2TBHYmqSlgcNZ2Zg_5QCpg5HLJKOd0D313-ZQjhRpUH3XSg6CZIe3SjiGmYqz5yE06gd55K0KSaQ/s1600/Hordeblood+Troll+Axer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="347" data-original-width="432" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJIIee8RO0Qev30PZKwcvXpxZ7s4MMhWbZXrvso6nKReNvRT3mCkI5uSvYAS2TBHYmqSlgcNZ2Zg_5QCpg5HLJKOd0D313-ZQjhRpUH3XSg6CZIe3SjiGmYqz5yE06gd55K0KSaQ/s320/Hordeblood+Troll+Axer.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
You may have noticed a wound on the wrap up post for my <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2018/03/hordebloods-axer-base-and-final-photos.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Hordebloods Axer Blademaster</span></a>. It was an arrow that I made out of guitar string and feathers - pretty straight forward stuff but a nice way to add realism to a project.<br />
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Little details like this, wounds for example, add a nice touch to make your miniatures seem like they're interacting with an environment somewhere. You don't need to go overboard, covered in damage and blood - be subtle.<br />
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This process would also work quite well for notched arrows, (arrows in crossbows and pulled back in bows) adding arrows to bows or even just arrows slung in a quiver.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Guitar String</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju2MVBCGiDo8XLXX2QMXK4J9ia4rWjgrJlYboSiFUWkoDqr7hGbNXCiouUcwHobGPKuzKQ7F4GDUjYFQcwSVSc3xdR6gPGH7WH37Ooxf2J9_Lqt2Sxs-KgDmVtNFn5koHsFivLLg/s1600/01+-+guitar+string.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="260" data-original-width="776" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEju2MVBCGiDo8XLXX2QMXK4J9ia4rWjgrJlYboSiFUWkoDqr7hGbNXCiouUcwHobGPKuzKQ7F4GDUjYFQcwSVSc3xdR6gPGH7WH37Ooxf2J9_Lqt2Sxs-KgDmVtNFn5koHsFivLLg/s640/01+-+guitar+string.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YxB-CzTSZIcqn9apKkomxOuN68tw466L3NSsIT1gecuSp6m2uXylmjAG3gWQd9Q7p7vgVI09ZkKYSI7TDI-CqwKYrKvvbsmUxwLV73gBOElTxf5FbvN1fPG4jNr9W8JkwRzXCQ/s1600/02+-+guitar+string.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="138" data-original-width="344" height="128" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YxB-CzTSZIcqn9apKkomxOuN68tw466L3NSsIT1gecuSp6m2uXylmjAG3gWQd9Q7p7vgVI09ZkKYSI7TDI-CqwKYrKvvbsmUxwLV73gBOElTxf5FbvN1fPG4jNr9W8JkwRzXCQ/s320/02+-+guitar+string.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Nothing terribly new here, I've <span style="font-size: large;"><a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/search/label/guitar%20string">used guitar string before</a></span>. It's cheap and great for pipes, spikes, claws, etc. You could probably even pin smaller models with it too.<br />
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For this project, I just needed to cut a short length slightly longer than what I wanted sticking out of him. (So there's a little I could glue into him.)<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Feathers</span><br />
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I picked up some feathers from the hobby store. (Think it was Michaels, aka Hobby Lobby in the US.) As you can see, not too expensive either. $2.49 for that small bag, which still goes pretty far in our hobby. The bag isn't resealable, so I transferred the rest of the feathers into a ziplock bag. If you don't, it's gonna get really messy in your hobby space as a little air will blow these things EVERYWHERE.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD19Q0Hh-gS-bWfRuG-tGwGuQjkaBzLFzCpr1OGJgdUY1AwZzqLIPDbZit8VmCqurxYFBxbyo0P6wDXhSxuMYxjueV7D1RqANyuhxQeDvVheXrvzPwPcjWy5gKe4W8OxBlk0Hfeg/s1600/03+-+feathers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="353" data-original-width="470" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD19Q0Hh-gS-bWfRuG-tGwGuQjkaBzLFzCpr1OGJgdUY1AwZzqLIPDbZit8VmCqurxYFBxbyo0P6wDXhSxuMYxjueV7D1RqANyuhxQeDvVheXrvzPwPcjWy5gKe4W8OxBlk0Hfeg/s320/03+-+feathers.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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For this project, I only needed one feather. That's what I like about hobby supplies for miniatures - Sure, you can't go out and buy a feather for 5c, but a bag goes SO far.<br />
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I also cut a short piece of guitar string, remembering to leave it a little longer than the arrow so one end can be glued into the miniature. Be careful - these things get sharp!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRJ96RUpiixQvxB7ZRFbYF9GqfUfWLOwOSSEksPrpyB3IbKWNj0d_1H_GcuoxA3yobZr7vBXCVj3qUfnB4IPJ8Ei6V0dhcKeJCWyBBqVF2e92rXgQk9h3VPDws79eY-tldWAZPA/s1600/04+-+parts.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="283" data-original-width="391" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilRJ96RUpiixQvxB7ZRFbYF9GqfUfWLOwOSSEksPrpyB3IbKWNj0d_1H_GcuoxA3yobZr7vBXCVj3qUfnB4IPJ8Ei6V0dhcKeJCWyBBqVF2e92rXgQk9h3VPDws79eY-tldWAZPA/s320/04+-+parts.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Glue the Feather</span><br />
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Using a clamp to hold the string, I apply a little super glue, then hold the feather against it until it holds in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUAlUhWcfTgg_hFtmNUVF2_TvI_nx2x8Zd9fwnwyBmnKS5sl6fa2HWdTnMGKllQVSP0c3Lt63njC3ioZJnX-PQZpwcsmXjgEYYeIh_Lip-BIkcKu2M3bcZyauJ7dfOWXOn8VT6xA/s1600/05+-+gluing.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="304" data-original-width="914" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUAlUhWcfTgg_hFtmNUVF2_TvI_nx2x8Zd9fwnwyBmnKS5sl6fa2HWdTnMGKllQVSP0c3Lt63njC3ioZJnX-PQZpwcsmXjgEYYeIh_Lip-BIkcKu2M3bcZyauJ7dfOWXOn8VT6xA/s640/05+-+gluing.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Trim the Feather</span><br />
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I used wire cutters because they have a fine blade and trimmed the feather down.<br />
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Following that, I used a hobby knife to trim the end into an angle and cut 2 more pieces of feather to be glued on.<br />
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When applying the glue this time, be careful not to get any in the feather already on the shaft. For this, I suggest getting some glue on the tip of a pin and using that to apply it. A pair of tweezers will help you hold the final pieces of feather in place while the glue dries.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgYs6Cth9liA9GgXsUoXvcH6vt22PLrI4zrpKsZWVyaMs-GFah8IebftQrq7llBUCntdg57zt0b4-49ypGE_3fUKMnIJy29A-_58DhV9hr2RUQIRppC_pdUb57o7LsESfMrSMlMw/s1600/06+-+cutting.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="337" data-original-width="854" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgYs6Cth9liA9GgXsUoXvcH6vt22PLrI4zrpKsZWVyaMs-GFah8IebftQrq7llBUCntdg57zt0b4-49ypGE_3fUKMnIJy29A-_58DhV9hr2RUQIRppC_pdUb57o7LsESfMrSMlMw/s640/06+-+cutting.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Final Product</span><br />
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The finished product is a little messy, but gets the job done. With a little practice, I'm sure it would come out even cleaner.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw7T1sMhPMGzuLIc3WfNCQu3ulCww_x9_CdKaHpk47PjNwsmO0HsCULxRtj-0OD2EqCRuMaPlKehAy9jC_8zzEF3XJfA5pJppDPaJj4WRs0Dowt9aMyYjyME8_IDTh_wM47a_xQ/s1600/07+-+glued.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="414" data-original-width="349" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjw7T1sMhPMGzuLIc3WfNCQu3ulCww_x9_CdKaHpk47PjNwsmO0HsCULxRtj-0OD2EqCRuMaPlKehAy9jC_8zzEF3XJfA5pJppDPaJj4WRs0Dowt9aMyYjyME8_IDTh_wM47a_xQ/s400/07+-+glued.jpg" width="336" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">Adding Bow String</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ONgA4dURi2_QhqcyRTa-lqrwIBFUydM5BtskL_5odJNT8Yi9Up4FrHzL-ZWeF8E30jov0tUAV5evdyFuXVfyZ6Yx9HTJHIQGKaqYeMOh-80hwbzDz3nQO5kyvtF1YnNtAsY_2w/s1600/04+-+finish.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="435" data-original-width="293" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0ONgA4dURi2_QhqcyRTa-lqrwIBFUydM5BtskL_5odJNT8Yi9Up4FrHzL-ZWeF8E30jov0tUAV5evdyFuXVfyZ6Yx9HTJHIQGKaqYeMOh-80hwbzDz3nQO5kyvtF1YnNtAsY_2w/s320/04+-+finish.jpg" width="215" /></a></div>
If you want to look at other ways to customize bows and arrows, take a read at my tutorial on <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2016/10/bracing-bows-attaching-string-to.html"><span style="font-size: large;">Bracing Bows</span></a>. (Adding string.)<br />
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<tr><td>Visit <a href="http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/">Wargaming Tradecraft</a> for organized links to detailed tutorials on painting, techniques, supplies, musings and more.<br />
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<script type="text/javascript" src="http://dreamingmuse.com/wgtc/incs/direct.js"></script></div>Dave Garbehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01557481319925772152noreply@blogger.com1