Wargaming Tradecraft: July 2013

Avoiding tipping and Weighing Bases


 Some models are just down right tippable, either because of some modding you've done or that's just how the model is. (Tyranids, I'm looking at you.) Other models are on the fence - fine in most situations, but tipsy if you start balancing them on terrain. (Lictors, I'm looking at you.) There are some things you can do to avoid tipping.

Glow in the Dark Paint


Another nifty paint you can get is Glow in the Dark. How does this affect gaming? It really doesn't, besides being able to say "This stuff glows in the dark!" Runes, head lights, visors / glasses, HUDs (Heads Up Displays), control surfaces, magic, whatever. It works just like those stickers you had as a kid - leave it under a bright light for a while, turn out the lights, and it glows!

Fun Fact! Diffused light, like through a cloth in a light box, doesn't really work for charging glow in the dark. Use direct light.

This is purely a "for fun" addition to your models, but it's kinda neat being able to add some character to your army. It's also neat to be able to say things like, "All my magic stuff glows in the dark," or "My underwater 3D game board is bullet proof."

This stuff is also available at most hobby stores for pretty cheap. However, there are a bunch of places online that sell high-end glow in the dark paint and pigments. (powder) It's stronger, brighter and comes in other colours, but it's expensive. Price is high mostly because it's meant for large projects and comes in big containers, but sometimes you can find smaller "tester" kits.

Not to be confused with day-glo stuff... aka, paints and pigments that are so bright (usually neon) that they look intense under normal light. (But don't actually glow)

Object Source Lighting


We're all (hopefully) used to painting miniatures with some kind of light source in mind. Typically, you're using Zenithal Lighting - a generic light shining down on your figure from above. Most of the time, this will be a "white" light source as when you highlight, it's with colours that only lighten your painted area.

What I'm looking at in this article are cases where something on your model is creating an additional light and how it affects your painting. This is called Object Source Lighting, often abbreviated as "OSL".

Crackle Medium does the work for you


Something you can purchase is a "crackle medium" and it does basically what the name says - it's a medium that crackles your paints for you. Lots of uses for something like this and in this tutorial, I've used it on the blade of my Malefic Warlock. Instead of weapons, you could absolutely use it on vehicles and other armour plates, trees, walls, roads even the skin of large creatures - sky's really the limit.

Most hobby stores like Michaels and Hobby Lobby will carry it and it's pretty cheap. From what I've seen, every brand works roughly the same. This is a short post, because really, it's simple stuff.

Hordebloods: Krielstone Warlocks: Malefic Tier 6

For those of you who follow Wargaming Tradecraft on Facebook, (Where I share peeks into what I'm working on and converse with, well, all of you.) you know I've been working on this guy for the last little bit. Here's the final Warlock in my Krielstone Unit! This time, he's inspired by the Malefic Raiment, tier 6. I've also updated my Hordebloods Gallery with a photo of the unit as a whole.

Now, for this post, I'm not going to go into too much detail besides covering some of the steps I took to paint him. The reason for this, is that over the next little bit I'm going to cover a few different techniques used on this miniature.

As usual, I like to start with the based mini, primed black...

[REVIEW] Stamping with Happy Seppuku's Kickstarter


I was recently pointed to a rather interesting Kickstarter by Moe (aka, the local Gaming Guru) of the Windsor Gaming Resource. The company is Happy Seppuku Model Works and they're in the business of creating texture and accent stamps. The idea is that instead of spending $2-10 on textured resin bases, buy some stamps and quickly make them yourself. Being very intrigued, I contacted Happy Seppuku and offered to review their product, which you can read below. Their Kickstarter ENDS THIS WEEK. If you're interested, don't bookmark this to come back later, go take a look now. (If it's ended, you can still get other stamps at their store.)

The following review / tutorial is also useful if you happen to find other objects useful for texturing bases. Some hobby stores / model train stores will carry moulds, but they're usually 3D, while these are flat and better for bases.

My overall impression is this:

This is a great product for hobbyists who are looking for a quick way to make textured bases themselves without going to a whole lot of work. Stamping's a very easy process and the stamps themselves are big enough that every base will look a little unique with accents that offer even more flare. Purchased resin bases will provide better quality but cost quite a bit more. If you don't mind investing the time, imperfections like bubbles and broken details can be repaired with a once over using some kind of shaping tool. The cost of a single reusable texture stamp is about the same as the cost of resin bases for a small unit of troops.

[CHARITY] Headshots Wrap-Up


I've been meaning to post this for a while now.. basically a quick thank you to the Team and Volunteers as well as any of you who might have watched, donated or spread the word during our Headshots from the Heart gaming marathon for Child's Play Charity.

We raised $5,035.71

This puts our total to $7,616.34 from the last two years!